REFLECTOR: Getting close...couple questions

[Alex Balic]

I am fairly sure that a 4cyl Lycoming will not run very well without the prop- not only because of the added flywheel effect, but also with the lack of any load it would probably over speed at very low throttle settings. I ran my Subaru ( approximately 320 hp) with a 160 hp prop just to be able to get engine start) but I got over 6000 rpm at less than ¼ throttle, and that was with a load on there.

 

From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On Behalf Of Patrick Sieders
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2012 7:08 PM
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Getting close...couple questions

 

Unless you want to damage your engine, do use a prop on the engine.. it’s an essential piece and really should not be in your way if you take all the cowling off.

 

Patrick

 

From: Douglas Holub <mailto:douglas.holub at gmail.com>  

Sent: Monday, January 09, 2012 7:01 PM

To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list <mailto:reflector at tvbf.org>  

Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Getting close...couple questions

 

I thought the engine needed the prop's inertia/momentum to run. Is that true?

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Geoff Gerhardt <mailto:geoff.gerhardt at gmail.com>  

To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list <mailto:reflector at tvbf.org>  

Sent: Monday, January 09, 2012 7:35 PM

Subject: REFLECTOR: Getting close...couple questions

 

I had a great weekend at the hangar where I finished up a few major jobs.  Got my panel back in and buttoned down.  Retractable gear works perfectly now.  One job that I'd been avoiding is replacement of the gas spring that assists emergency deployment of the nose gear.  The spring that was in there had gotten weak and was taking forever to push the nose gear over center.  But, wow, what an ordeal to replace that.  My arms look like I've been fighting cats as they're all scratched up from reaching into the keel.  Its done, tho.  I hope it doesn't need replacing for another 10 yrs. 

 

I also re-checked my fuel system now that its fully plumbed - found a couple minor leaks that I fixed. 

 

So, next weekend, I will likely call the fuel truck over.  I have a couple questions.  What's the best way to calibrate the fuel tank levels?  I have capacitance fuel sensors as well as sight gauges.  What I'm thinking is that I'll get one tank filled up in increments to allow calibration, then use a fuel pump to pump it over to the other tank and calibrate that one. Then, open up the vents and sump connections to allow them to equalize.  I'm thinking it would be best not to have full tanks for first taxi tests and takeoff.  Or, am I over thinking this - should I just fill both tanks to the brim?

 

Secondly, for first engine start, I would like to leave the prop off to allow for close inspection of the engine while its running to adjust idle or look for leaks without getting my head chopped off.  Is there any issue running the engine for brief periods without a prop (IO360)?

 

Thanks.

 

Geoff

 


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