REFLECTOR: Nose Gear Doors

jerry at jlbent.com jerry at jlbent.com
Fri Aug 23 08:12:10 CDT 2013 

Just one additional thought.  I find fine BID to be a pain.  It doesn't
drape well and I think it produces a thcker final solution.  I have
purchased two lighter weight BID's that are called tooling cloth on
Aircraft Spruce site.   One is 3.75 oz and the other is 1.45 oz.  I keep
both on hand for those situations where I need to add some protection from
chiping, but need very little build up.  The 1.45 oz cloth is nearly no
existent in a single layer.  It drapes extremely well and is much stronger
than just filler.

Adding these two cloth options just provides more ways to fix mistakes with
very nice cosmetic finish.


Jerry Brainard
Jerry at JLBEnt.com


   	-------Original Message-------
From: Paul Folkes <ausvelocity at gmail.com>
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list <reflector at tvbf.org>
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Nose Gear Doors
Sent: Aug 22 '13 5:36pm


Thanks for the input,everyone.  My only reason for thinking to use just
Cabosil is that my old manual says it is great for filling nicks, chips and
small gaps.  However, I think that you are all right, and that 'belts and
braces' is better in that area, and so I am going to use milled fibre and
cabo mix to infill and cover with fine bid.  That should do it!

Thanks again everyone.

Regards,


Paul Folkes
XLRG
VH-VVX
building but a looooong way to go.


On 23 August 2013 08:07, Matt Bucko <[LINK: mailto:mbuc310 at cox.net]
mbuc310 at cox.net> wrote:

Andy, you are correct.
Matt


On 8/22/2013 12:53 PM, Andrew Ellzey wrote:

Somebody can correct me, if I am wrong, but cab o sil is only susposed to
be used as a thinking agent, why don't you use milled glass fibers and
structural epoxy. This mixture is then structural. Not just a non
structural filler, unless that is what you are looking for, then you should
again use structural or non structural epoxy, and mill glass beads, and
then thicken it with cab o sil.

Andy Ellzey

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 22, 2013, at 5:07 PM, Clayton Chase <[LINK: mailto:chasec at gmail.com]
chasec at gmail.com> wrote:


I'm having the same problem Paul is only in my case it's because I can't
cut straight, not that the factory made the hole wrong.  I've made a
picture that shows the situation perhaps a little more clearly.    I was
thinking that since the cab-o-sil is not very thick and is already backed
by the flange fiberglass it would be strong enough on its own.    Does
anyone have any opinions on this?


On Wed, Aug 21, 2013 at 7:28 PM, Paul Folkes <[LINK:
mailto:ausvelocity at gmail.com] ausvelocity at gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Bob,

thanks.  I did something similar to get the bend in the doors to match the
contour of the fuselage, which is now good.  My problem is uneven gaps
between the door edges and the edges of the hole, because the hole is not
square.


Paul Folkes
XLRG
VH-VVX
building but a looooong way to go.


On 22 August 2013 12:04, Bob Jackson (Jax Tech) <[LINK:
mailto:bobj at jaxtechllc.com] bobj at jaxtechllc.com> wrote:


Paul,


An alternative to filling the gaps is to bend the doors to fit the fuselage
opening.  When we first fit our gull wing doors to the fuselage, the doors
on both sides did not follow the exact contour of the fuselage, and the
bottom corners of the door stuck out and in ~1/2" from the fuselage
surface.


We had great success in building a 'jig' involving 3/8" threaded rods,
threaded through temporary holes cut into the door beams, and through 2x4's
temporarily fixed to the insides and outsides of the fuselage for leverage.
 By turning nuts on the threaded rod we could 'spring' the doors into
proper alignment.  The next step then was to heat the door (multiple hot
air guns and heat lamps until the door fiberglass was almost too hot to
touch) so that the epoxy would 'flow' slightly and the door would bend
slightly and assume the new desired shape that was flush with the fuselage
skin.


I think you only can do this 'trick' a few times before the epoxy begins to
'work harden' and will no longer re-flow and bend.  We learned
trial-and-error that we needed to 'over-spring' the bending corrections
(e.g., if we needed to move the door in 1/2", then using the nuts on the
threaded rod actually bend it in 1" while heating it up).  Once we heated
it up with something like twice the correction needed, once it cooled down
after a few hours and we removed the rig, the door would loose about half
of the correction and spring back to 'about right'.  One or two cycles of
this and our doors now fit perfectly!


This doesn't seem to be a technique that too many people know about, but it
worked great for us and I think it should also work on you nose gear doors.


Good luck!


Bob Jackson

Turbo-Cross Country Velocity XL-RG

N2XF


          --------------------


From: [LINK: mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] reflector-bounces at tvbf.org
[mailto:[LINK: mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org]
reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On Behalf Of Paul Folkes
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 8:36 PM
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
Subject: REFLECTOR: Nose Gear Doors


Hi all,


I'm looking for some advice from the collective wisdom.  I am working on
the nose gear doors.  I have an older, fast-build kit and have to make my
own flange (no problem there). My problem is the hole cut out by the
factory is not square and there are a few dings and chips from moves from
garage to garage to hangar by the previous owner. This all means that there
are some uneven and quite large (up to 1/4 inch) gaps around the
pre-moulded doors that I need to fill and reshape to get the hole square
with nice straight edges.  What is the best process and material for this?
I am thinking to cover the door piece in duct tape or saran wrap and hot
glue or bondo it into place, wipe cabosil into the gaps around the door,
and then sand square when cured.  Any comments, please?


Thanks,


Paul Folkes


XLRG


VH-VVX


building but a looooong way to go.
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