REFLECTOR: Franklin Will not turnover when hot

[Michael Watson]

Sid,

Timing is checked at every annual, It's always right on, I actually have it
set
one degree retarded from recommended setting.  The engine does NOT kick
back it just stops. releasing the starter releases the compression. I am an
electronic
engineer and am familiar with and tried most of the test procedures you
mentioned.
11.2 volts at the starter while cranking, .8volts drop across main
contractor and .65volts
across starter contractor. After three tries, none of the wires get hot.

Jeff,

I'd love to, but it just wont fit.




On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 11:41 PM, sbjknox <sbjknox at earthlink.net> wrote:

> I have been thinking about my last post and the possible early timing issue
> and realize that for a test you don't need to mess with the timing, simply
> try and crank it with the mags off.
>
> But beyond that, I suggest you make some voltage measurements...
> 1) Connect a voltmeter directly between the 'hot' starter terminal and the
> case ground.  Crank for a couple seconds (mags off) and record voltage.
> 2) Repeat with the voltmeter  directly across the battery posts, not on the
> cable clamps (or whatever you use to connect to the posts).
> 3) *Important* don't remain in the "locked rotor" crank mode for more than
> two or three seconds.  There will likely be hundreds of Amps flowing and
> this equates to *many* Kilowatts of heat being generated!
> 4) After taking the voltage readings, feel with your hand, each and every
> connector, terminal, the starter and master solenoids for something hot.
> Warm can be normal but not hot.  Don't forget the return (GND) path from
> the
> battery to the engine.  In that short of time, the mass of the battery and
> starter is such that you probably won't notice any heat build-up in them
> but
> be assured that if you hold the locked-rotor current for an extended period
> of time, you will likely destroy the starter and/or battery and
> solenoid(s).
> (altho, the long run of  #2 wire might save it).
>
> A six-dollar Harbor Freight digital voltmeter and some basic
> trouble-shooting  will serve you better than throwing several hundred
> dollars worth of starters and batterys on speculation at the problem.
>
>
> Sid Knox
> Oklahoma
>
> Velocity  173 RG  N199RS
> Starduster  N666SK
> KR2         N24TC
> W7QJQ
>
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-- 
Mike W.
1997 Velocity Elite RG
Franklin /IVO Electric CS
Dual GRT EFIS HX Synthetic Vision
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