REFLECTOR: Overhead NACA's
Jon Bachman
jbachman at zianet.com
Wed Apr 15 16:31:24 CDT 2009
Brent,
Where is your rear cooler? Do you have any pictures of your instillation?
Jon Bachman
575 430-9724
STD RG Under wing cooling
w/ IO-360
_____
From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On
Behalf Of Brent Bourgeois
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 11:15 AM
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Overhead NACA's
Doug,
I have done a lot of work on my coolers and now have a system where I get
180-190 no matter how hard I run (or abuse) and regardless of OAT. The best
thing you can do is a simple press study to see what you are dealing with.
My experience has been that its almost never an inlet problem. If you get
the press low enough on the cooler outlet , at least 4 in/water difference,
your oil will cool.
Put a sense tube in front of the cooler and one behind, use an airspeed
indicator to get mph, convert to inch/water. Get real numbers, make one mod
at a time and make lots of notes.
Do this for engine cooling also. You may be surprised what works and what is
BS
I have a STD RG with an IO-360 arm pit cooling, front and rear coolers.
Let me know If I can help
Brent
N61VB
--- On Wed, 4/15/09, Douglas Holub <douglas.holub at gmail.com> wrote:
From: Douglas Holub <douglas.holub at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Overhead NACA's (was "Rudder Pedal stops")
To: "Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list" <reflector at tvbf.org>
Date: Wednesday, April 15, 2009, 9:57 AM
I would remove the VGs in front of your NACAs to get the cylinder
temperatures up to 360. ECI recommends that the cylinder temperatures be
400-425 in cruise for a parallel valve 4-cylinder Lycoming with 500 F
redline. If you've got an angle valve Lycoming I think the redline is
lower, maybe 475? My friend had a sticking valve on his engine, and the
mechanic told him that it was because the cylinders were running too cool.
His temps are in the low 300s.
Speaking of cooling, I've got a question for the collective, (especially for
Al if you're out there.) I need to run my engine below 75% power to keep
the oil temperatures below 230 degrees on a 75 degree day like yesterday. My
redline is 245. I went from a divergent wall NACA to a parallel wall NACA to
a belly scoop. The oil keeps getting cooler, but I need another 20 degrees
to be able to fly much in Texas in the summer time. My scoop has a 5 x 2
inch opening that smoothly diverges to the size of the oil cooler 2 feet
later. In other words, it has an exansion plenum. Here's my question: I know
that the drag will increase if I make the entrance larger and don't have an
expansion plenum, but will cooling also increase? Or will the air spilling
out of the entrance to the scoop just make things worse?
Doug Holub
Standard FG in phase I flight testing
On Wed, Apr 15, 2009 at 9:33 AM, victor taylor <velocityoner at yahoo.com>
wrote:
I converted my Velocity from the updraft cooling to the cut out home made
naca vents on the top. My Velocity runs as cool as my Cessna 150 with temps
running 310 cht and 190 oil. I had to add a small airfoil in front of the
exhaust exit on the oil cooler after we test flew it. Also without the
vortex generators in front of the nacas it will raise the cht by 50 degrees
and the oil temp to 220.
--- On Wed, 4/15/09, Lawrence J. Epstein, MD <ljepstein at hotmail.com> wrote:
From: Lawrence J. Epstein, MD <ljepstein at hotmail.com>
Subject: REFLECTOR: Overhead NACA's (was "Rudder Pedal stops")
To: "'Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list'" <reflector at tvbf.org>
Date: Wednesday, April 15, 2009, 7:45 AM
You guys are "fastbuild" compared to me (13 years and counting). Mine is so
old that NACA's hadn't been invented yet (not really) ( we had to walk
uphill to school, both ways, in the snow, no shoes...)
Anyway......The factory sent me the templates and I cut them out myself (no
opinion as to whether these are real NACA's or not). I cut everything except
the forward most part and just pushed the skin down to the desired depth. I
used 1/4" foam for the sides and covered them with bid. About 6-10 hours
work.
Larry Epstein
From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On
Behalf Of jerry at jlbent.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 8:22 AM
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Rudder Pedal stops
Just to add to the challenge on the NACA ducts, you might want to consider
the efficency of the factory design. While they look like NACA ducts, they
are not. Andy Millin has spent a lot of time researching the topic and has
a spreadsheet that does the calculations to produce the needed profile. One
very big difference (and maybe the most important) is that the factory
solution does not have an airfoil on top of the opening. Of course the
amount of work needed to create a real NACA vs buying the factory pre-fab is
not trivial.
I too am a SLOOOW builder and have a kit that did not come with the
pre-fab'd NACA's. Mine did not even have the NACAs drawn on the fuselage.
I had read Andy's information and decided to build my own. Just let me say
that one can get really obsessive about the details. I would say that Brett
and I have at least 50 hours of work on them. Some is my learning curve.
Some is just ! the details. We did the extra work to make the floor of the
ramp flat, which is not what you get if you just cut the outline, build the
side walls and call it done.
As of yet, I can not say that the true NACA will be better. Hangar 18
suggest NACA's and believes they are better. I do know that those in the
Vari community think the Velo factory NACA are just wrong and will produce
more drag and be less efficient than a proper NACA. For the amount of work
involved in both hands on construction and the amount of head scratching
needed to build true NACA's, it is very hard not to go with the factory
pre-fabs.
If you decide to go with the true NACA, let me know and we can talk details.
Maybe I can save you some time.
Jerry Brainard
-------Original Message-------
From: Richard D. Wallace, Jr.
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Rudder Pedal stops
Sent: Apr 14 '09 7:08pm
Noel:
I'm on the slow path also. I got my kit for Christmas 2000. My
fuselage has the NACA scoops outlined on the top also. What do you
make the sides out of - BID? Also what is the dimension on the
opening in the firewall?
Rick
On Tue, Apr 14, 2009 at 6:28 PM, <gattenby at tulsaconnect.com
<http://mbox.jlbent.com/compose.php?to=gattenby@tulsaconnect.com> > wrote:
> Rick.
>
> I'm taking the slow path to building an SUV as well (8 years and counting)
> I've not done the pedal things as I'm missing some parts. (got my kit 2nd
> hand)
>
> The NACA scoops can be bui! lt without the prefab inserts.
> My kit predated the inserts. They weren't that big a deal.
> The kit had the lines drawn on the top, and I just cut them.
>
> If you need templates just let me know and I'll trace mine on paper.
>
> Noel
>
> On Tue, 14 Apr 2009 17:30:24 -0400
> "Richard D. Wallace, Jr." <rdwallace57 at gmail.com
<http://mbox.jlbent.com/compose.php?to=rdwallace57@gmail.com> > wrote:
>> Guys:
>>
>> I don't provide comments (lack of experience and I have
>>a single door,
>> fixed gear, dual yoke control SUV) but I do and have
>>read all e-mails
>> back and forth. I seem to be just behind in
>>construction than some
>> and the need to ask questions is always unnecessary
>>because the
>> ! subject has already been discussed. However, I have
>>come up with two
>> (2) questions: 1) do you need stops for the break
>>pedals so they are
>> not putting pressure on the master brake cylinder heads
>>when the
>> springs are pulling and your foot is not on the pedals?
>>and 2) is
>> there a way to make the two (2) larger NACA scoops on
>>top and in the
>> back for the engine cooling from the existing fuselage
>>or do you
>> really need to buy the pre-fabricated ones from
>>Velocity?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Rick Wallace
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