REFLECTOR: fuel system, flaring aluminum tubing

Mon Feb 4 18:56:22 CST 2008

Hi Grigore,

In addition to Alex's comments.  I too used the bender he described.  Once in a while I had to make a bend that was could not be done with the tool Alex referenced.  An alternate tool is a spring bender (bought my set at Lowes) its a spring that fits closely over the OD of the tube to be bent, then bend free hand.  Another method is to pack the tubing with sand before bending (good idea to flush very thoroughly when done.  

After cutting the tubing to length, I clamp the tube end in an old flare tool and use it as a guide to file the tube end square and past the ridge left by the tubing cutter.  If you do any SS tubing, this is a must.  SS should not be cut with a tubing cutter, it work hardens and will not flare well.  Saw cut and file square.

Joe

  ----- Original Message ----- the tube 
  From: Alex Balic 
  To: 'Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list' 
  Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 1:18 AM
  Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: fuel system, flaring aluminum tubing

  Hi Grigore-

  That "rolo" tube flare tool is the correct one- it does not bend the tubes, it has 2 rotating dies in there that you match up left and right to grip whatever size tube you are flaring, then there is the clamping nut that you tighten to grip the tube and then you tighten the large handle which drives the flaring cone down into the tube end- the cone isn't really a cone, but a complex shape that both forms and burnishes the tube face- you just need to be practiced at how much tube you leave exposed in the clamp- it depends on the diameter- but you will get the hang of it after a few tries, then just remember to stop turning the tool when resistance is first felt, otherwise you will over form and crush the tube end.  As far as the cutter type- I recommend the third one on your list- it has rollers opposite of the cutting wheel that help protect the tubing while it is being cut- never use the second type- it will not cut properly at all- it is a soft tubing cutter, like for automotive fuel line or garden hose or maybe plastic hose of some sort. Make sure you lube up both the flare tool (oil on the tightening screws and lithium grease on the forming head) and oil on the cutting wheel and rollers of the cutter- you will be making perfect tubes before you know it!  For bending, I have a tool from harbor freight- it bends 3 different sizes of tubing- probably spruce has one for twice the price-  it has a flip over handle that holds the tube, and it sort of wipes the tubing against a round die which has 3 groves in it for the 3 tube sizes that it bends- works fine and you can bend anything up to 180 degrees on there...you can not bend the tubes by hand except for a huge radius bend to clear something- it will just kink if you try to bend by hand- the bender from harbor freight tools was less than $10.

  Alex

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  From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On Behalf Of Grigore Rosu
  Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 2:09 PM
  To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
  Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: fuel system, flaring aluminum tubing

  Alex,

  Is this what you meant by the "roto flare tool":

  http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/flaringtools2.php

  They call it "rolo flare tool".  It appears that this tool can also bend the tubes, which is an additional benefit if it works well.  I have never worked with tubes before and I just tried to bend the fuel lines by hand; the result looks horible.  Is this tool making good bends, too?

  Regarding tube cutters, which of the following would you recommend:

  http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/tube_cutters3.php

  http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/tube_cutters1.php

  http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/tube_cutters4.php

  ... or did you have something else in mind for a "decent cutter"?

  Thank you,

  Grigore

  On Feb 3, 2008 11:15 AM, Alex Balic <velocity_pilot at verizon.net> wrote:

  I won't flame you Sid- but I would recommend the roto flare tool- you will
  pay a premium for it, but it is better at flaring the aluminum, because it
  does not just stretch the metal like a punch die- it does it effectively in
  steps because of the shape and action of the forming end, and provides a
  very good finish to the inside of the flare- use some lube- I prefer lithium
  based grease, and it will look great every time - the roto tool also has a
  built in gauge to set the length of the tube before flare which is handy-
  although it is not all that accurate, it still helps setting up, and the
  resulting flare is of the proper angle, which really is important- you can
  use the male end of the AN fitting to "make" it the correct angle during
  assembly, but you are just asking for a bad seal and/or a crack. Just suck
  it up and get the flare tool- you will think it is expensive, and it is, but
  you will use it a lot and can probably sell it on E-bay for most of what you
  paid for it when you are done. And get a decent tubing cutter too, some of
  the cheap ones scratch the aluminum as they work, not a good thing when
  making fuel lines.  You will need to do some practice and get a feel for the
  flaring tool- you do not want to over flare or under flare, you will pick it
  op pretty fast-

  -----Original Message-----
  From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On
  Behalf Of Sid Knox
  Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 9:50 AM
  To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list

  Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: fuel system, flaring aluminum tubing

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: <gattenby at tulsaconnect.com>
  To: "Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list" <reflector at tvbf.org>
  > I haven't ran any of the aluminum line yet.
  > I assume that I'll need to flare the end of the tubing /
  > use a special nut.
  >
  > Anyone care to educate me as to the process and what tools
  > that I'll need?

  > Noel

  With my flame suit securely zipped, I offer the following:

  http://www.frybrid.com/forum/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=91

  As the guy points out, for aluminum (or copper) there is no point in
  worrying about whether the tool
  is for 37 deg or 45 deg... when I tighten the flare nut, the flared tubing
  end conformes.  I will add however that
  I prefer to tighten a new flared end onto a steel (AN) fitting ( a drop of
  oil here please) that acts as a mandrel
  and smoothes the flare edges before installing it on the aluminum fitting.
  The steel fittings are about $2 at a auto
  parts house that fabs hydraulic hoses (like Napa).  The flaring tool is
  about $15 at Harbor Freight or an auto parts store.

  Sid Knox
  Oklahoma

  Velocity  173 RG  N199RS
  Starduster  N666SK
  KR2         N24TC
  W7QJQ

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