REFLECTOR: Of door seals

Fri Dec 14 10:08:18 CST 2007

Andy,

Great find!  The factory U channel-like all of what's on that McM page--will
distort some as it goes around the corners, and it has to be fully inserted
into the corners but not stuffed to the point of serious distortion.  That
said even in flat areas it can spread apart excessively if you get too big a
whack with that mallet---or (as I have) you pull it off and on a lot of
times.  You can re pinch the metal inserts back into form somewhat, but the
more handling it gets the worse the good pinch quality becomes.     

#21 of the ones on that catalog page you ref'd could be great in the flats
because of its compressibility potential, but it could distort pretty bad in
the corners, or need little slits cut so it didn't bunch up and then the
slits could compromise the water seal, and all this at a much higher per
foot price than straight strip material or better info on how to make the
best use of kit parts.  I am trying to give the rain water entering along
the top edge of the door a large enuf running path (volumetric capacity) to
go around the top portions of the door-to-frame using as light a seal
compression as I can.  With a more robust compression seal, especially one
applied all the way around, you will have a door that is a bear to close and
latch. That flexible feeler gauge idea that Larry or Dave or somebody
suggested is a good one.  I am going to work with that and with flat strips
supplementing my factory U channel, and see if I can't get this solved.  

Thank you to everyone who has chimed in here.  I will report back with what
I used in the end.  

Terry 

  _____  

From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On
Behalf Of Andrew Ellzey
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 10:25 AM
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Of door seals

Look at pages 3342 & 3343 of McMaster car, seals 15 or 16 looks like should
seal out air or water. Has anyone tried these? http://www.mcmaster.com/

Andy Ellzey

----- Original Message ----
From: Terry Miles <terrence_miles at hotmail.com>
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list <reflector at tvbf.org>
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 8:12:13 AM
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Of door seals

Lar,

I am not sure that I put this out there before.  Here is a P/N from McMaster
car.  My feeling is this stuff likely in combination with the kit door seal
has good potential for further testing.  

First http://www.mcmaster.com/       the search on PN 9369k64   It looks
like it could be similar to that non inflatable product you showed us that
avtec is selling.  In the McM website they explain the properties of all the
sealing materials that they sell.  My first go at this I bought the
narrowest strips 3/8ths out of concern for the total compressibility I would
have to overcome to get the door closed, but I found it compresses real
nice.  

I am going to order the wider strips for my next shot at a water tight seal
for the doors.  .except the only shots I am doing for the next 3 weeks will
be brandy going into the egg nog.  This can wait until January.

Terry

  _____  

From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On
Behalf Of lawrence epstein
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 8:14 PM
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Of door seals

Has anyone tried these door seals?:

http://www.avtek2.com/door-Seal%20Chart.htm

I know that someone had posted the url in the past.

Larry Epstein

  _____  

> Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 23:42:43 -0800
> From: drgolf369 at yahoo.com
> To: reflector at tvbf.org
> Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Of door seals
> 
> Bob Fields Accessories Company number is : 805) 525-6236 (w)
> 
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: David Scharfenberg <dave at winco.net>
> To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list <reflector at tvbf.org>
> Sent: Saturday, December 8, 2007 11:52:07 PM
> Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Of door seals and two bars
> 
> 
> Hi Terry
> 
> Here are a couple of pics of my tow bar. The handle is made from some 
> different sizes of steel tubing that telescope, and two quick pins. 
> The end that clamps to the nose fork is made from some steel strap, 2 
> hinges, 2 short pieces of round tubing, a 5/16 bolt with the treads cut
> 
> off, and some stick-on felt. I just place the jaws around the nose 
> fork and slide the bolt through the 2 tubing pieces. I also have a 
> longer handle to replace the "T" handle. It hooks to my tug (golf 
> cart). It works really well.
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tow bar
> 
> 
> 
> Tow bar 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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