REFLECTOR: barn door speed brake

Richard J. Gentil richard at naples-air-center.com
Sun Oct 8 13:23:58 CDT 2006


David,

I am building the SE RG. I went without since, my gear will be my speed 
brake. Are an RG or FG?

Richard



David Ullman wrote:
> I am building an Se and flew in one the other day that did not have a speed
> brake.  The owner said the Duane Swing had told him no to bother.  The plane
> landed fine.  Do those of you who have one use it?  It is worth the effort
> to install?
>
> Dr. David G. Ullman
> Robust Decisions Inc
> 1655 NW Hillcrest Drive
> Corvallis, Oregon, 97330 USA
> Phone 541-758-5088
> Direct Phone: 541-754-3609
> FAX 866-898-1007
> ullman at robustdecisions.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On
> Behalf Of reflector-request at tvbf.org
> Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2006 10:00 AM
> To: reflector at tvbf.org
> Subject: Reflector Digest, Vol 29, Issue 12
>
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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re:  Winglet trimming (Andrew Ellzey)
>    2. Re:  painting fuselage (Dave Black)
>    3. Re:  Winglet trimming (Jack Prock)
>    4. Re:  Canard incidence (Al Gietzen)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 21:46:48 -0500
> From: "Andrew Ellzey" <ajlz72756 at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Winglet trimming
> To: "Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list" <reflector at tvbf.org>
> Message-ID: <007b01c6ea84$0123bda0$8302a8c0 at DASINC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
>
> Steve,
>
> You should call the factory to let them know that there is a problem with 
> their winglet template and get an conformation to what I did for mine. I am 
> also building my wings and winglets. I had the same issue as you are talking
>
> about. Put your winglet back in the billet half that matches the inboard 
> side of the winglet. Mark the lines on the billet half, the 28" mark will 
> fall on the billet half and the 12" will fall on your winglet. Now mark the 
> 1" foam trim line on your winglet per the manual. This line will fall 
> entirely on your winglet. Sand your billet half to match the contour of the 
> trailing edge where the line comes off the foam of the winglet. Line you 
> billet half with plastic to make a mold half for your lay-up. Do your 
> inboard lay-up per the manual leaving enough cloth for the entire size per 
> the manual. When you put your winglet in your billet half it will form your 
> trailing edge for the correct 28". After it cures you will trim the foam 
> back the 1" on your winglet per manual, and this line will fall on the foam.
>
> The manual also doesn't tell you what to do with the top of the winglet, 
> leave it squared off like it came out of the billet or round it off. I 
> rounded mine off to a nice aerodynamic shape. There are now three of us on 
> the Reflector that has found the same issue, there probably will be more.
>
> Andy Ellzey
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Steve Goldman" <steve at fatcatair.com>
> To: <reflector at tvbf.org>
> Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2006 6:58 PM
> Subject: REFLECTOR: Winglet trimming
>
>
>
>   
>> Well this might be a factory question for monday but we'll see.
>>
>> I got the winglets out of their billets today in hopes of starting on 
>> them.
>> I got stymied almost immediately. The manual calls for marking a spot 28" 
>> from
>> the leading edge at the bottom and 12" at the top and trim to the line 
>> connecting
>> those marks. Well I have more than 12" of foam at the top but I only have 
>> 27.5"
>> at the bottom. So I'm not sure what to do. The manual does say the 
>> important
>> thing is for them to be as identical as you can do them and since both are
>>     
>
>   
>> 27.5"
>> I could make them match up.
>>
>> I took out the wing trimming template to see what the winglet foam looked 
>> like
>> next to it and they look short there too. (The curve on the inboard side 
>> looks
>> remarkably different too but the geometry when it lays on the wing could 
>> be
>> part of it.)
>>
>> -- 
>> Steve Goldman
>> '77 Tiger N28531
>> Velocity XL5-RG (T-3465hrs 1%)
>> Pittsboro, NC (9NC8)
>> _______________________________________________
>> To change your email address, visit 
>> http://www.tvbf.org/mailman/listinfo/reflector
>>
>> Visit the gallery!  www.tvbf.org/gallery
>> user:pw >> Check new archives: www.tvbf.org/pipermail
>> Check old archives: http://www.tvbf.org/archives/velocity/maillist.html
>>
>>     
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2006 23:54:21 -0400
> From: Dave Black <dvblack at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: painting fuselage
> To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list <reflector at tvbf.org>
> Message-ID: <4528766D.7060203 at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
> Brian,
>
>   
>>> I hired a professional auto painter to do my Velocity. He showed me many 
>>> tricks with the sanding. And he stressed the importance of lots of 
>>> airflow to prevent paint dust from settling back on the plane.
>>>  
>>>       
>> Why is it important to keep the dust off the plane?
>>     
>
> We're talking about during painting. The airborne paint 'dust' would 
> fall onto the still wet paint surface and dull the finish. Nothing you 
> couldn't sand out, but still a lot of work. Having lots of cross-flow 
> ventilation prevents that.
>
>
> Dave
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 22:59:32 -0700
> From: "Jack Prock" <jackprock at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Winglet trimming
> To: "Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list" <reflector at tvbf.org>
> Message-ID: <094601c6ea9e$ecd56c20$c801a8c0 at jaxwindows>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Steve,
>
> Andy Ellzey and I both had the same issue. I would think the factory would
> update the manual, but they seem slow to
> do that even when several people have the same problem over and over.
>
> I asked the EXACT SAME question on the reflector on 7/30... if you go back,
> you will see the chat. I will give you
> the response that Andy sent me when I asked the question. His is a much
> better explanation than I can do:
>
>
>   
>>> I had the same issue as you are talking about. Put your winglet
>>> back in the billet half that matches the inboard side of the winglet. Mark
>>>       
> the lines on the billet half, the 28" mark
>   
>>> will fall on the billet half and the 12" will fall on your winglet. Now
>>>       
> mark the 1" foam trim line on your winglet
>   
>>> per the manual. This line will fall entirely on your winglet. Sand your
>>>       
> billet half to match the contour of the trailing
>   
>>> edge where the line comes off the foam of the winglet. Line you billet
>>>       
> half with plastic to make a mold half for your
>   
>>> lay-up. Do your inboard lay-up per the manual leaving enough cloth for the
>>>       
> entire size per the manual. When you put
>   
>>> your winglet in your billet half it will form your trailing edge for the
>>>       
> correct 28". After it cures you will trim the foam
>   
>>> back the 1" on your winglet per manual, and this line will fall on the
>>>       
> foam. The manual also doesn't tell you what
>   
>>> to do with the top of the winglet, leave it squared off like it came out
>>>       
> of the billet or round it off. I rounded mine
>   
>>> off to a nice aerodynamic shape. If you have room to attach your wings to
>>>       
> the spar when you are ready to attach
>   
>>> your winglets, as the manual suggests, this is the best way to make sure
>>>       
> your winglets and wings are completely
>   
>>> matched. Make all of the cross check measurements the manual calls for. I
>>>       
> used a water level at the wing tips to
>   
>>> level both wings attached to the spar. I spent 2 full days getting
>>>       
> everything just right, I'm hoping this will payoff in
>   
>>> how my aircraft flies.
>>>       
>
> I followed this and my winglets came out great. Hope this helped.
>
> Jack Prock
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Steve Goldman" <steve at fatcatair.com>
> To: <reflector at tvbf.org>
> Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2006 4:58 PM
> Subject: REFLECTOR: Winglet trimming
>
>
>   
>> Well this might be a factory question for monday but we'll see.
>>
>> I got the winglets out of their billets today in hopes of starting on
>>     
> them.
>   
>> I got stymied almost immediately. The manual calls for marking a spot 28"
>>     
> from
>   
>> the leading edge at the bottom and 12" at the top and trim to the line
>>     
> connecting
>   
>> those marks. Well I have more than 12" of foam at the top but I only have
>>     
> 27.5"
>   
>> at the bottom. So I'm not sure what to do. The manual does say the
>>     
> important
>   
>> thing is for them to be as identical as you can do them and since both are
>>     
> 27.5"
>   
>> I could make them match up.
>>
>> I took out the wing trimming template to see what the winglet foam looked
>>     
> like
>   
>> next to it and they look short there too. (The curve on the inboard side
>>     
> looks
>   
>> remarkably different too but the geometry when it lays on the wing could
>>     
> be
>   
>> part of it.)
>>
>> -- 
>> Steve Goldman
>> '77 Tiger N28531
>> Velocity XL5-RG (T-3465hrs 1%)
>> Pittsboro, NC (9NC8)
>>
>>
>>     
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 07:38:55 -0700
> From: "Al Gietzen" <ALVentures at cox.net>
> Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Canard incidence
> To: "'Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list'"
> 	<reflector at tvbf.org>
> Message-ID: <000501c6eae7$7b940140$6400a8c0 at BigAl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Canard incidence
>
>  
>
> HI AL
>
> The factory advised us to use two mixing sticks under the wingco canard gage
> on our XL.
>
> Mack  
>
> Hi, Mack;
>
>  
>
> Can you tell me more specifically where/how you placed the sticks.  It will
> give me a better idea of how much of a change may be necessary. Two sticks
> is about 1/8".  And where did you place the gauge?  With the varying camber
> from center to tip, there is only one place where the gauge fits the
> coutour.  On mine it was about 2' in from the outboard end.
>
>  
>
> When I was installing the canard some years ago, I spoke with both Alan and
> Mark Machado at Velocity, and neither suggested anything different about the
> use of the incidence gauge.
>
>  
>
> Thanks,
>
>  
>
> Al
>
>  
>
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>
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>   
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