REFLECTOR: Nose Gear Doors

Fri Aug 23 12:13:18 CDT 2013

Wow, great thinking Jerry.  I like it.    This is exactly the sort of
reason the Reflector is such a great resource!

On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 6:29 AM, Paul Folkes <ausvelocity at gmail.com> wrote:

> Good idea, Jerry.  I'll see if I can find a local supplier of a like
> material.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul Folkes
> XLRG
> VH-VVX
> *building but a looooong way to go.*
>
>
> On 23 August 2013 23:12, <jerry at jlbent.com> wrote:
>
>> Just one additional thought.  I find fine BID to be a pain.  It doesn't
>> drape well and I think it produces a thcker final solution.  I have
>> purchased two lighter weight BID's that are called tooling cloth on
>> Aircraft Spruce site.   One is 3.75 oz and the other is 1.45 oz.  I keep
>> both on hand for those situations where I need to add some protection from
>> chiping, but need very little build up.  The 1.45 oz cloth is nearly no
>> existent in a single layer.  It drapes extremely well and is much stronger
>> than just filler.
>>
>> Adding these two cloth options just provides more ways to fix mistakes
>> with very nice cosmetic finish.
>>
>>
>> Jerry Brainard
>> Jerry at JLBEnt.com
>>
>>
>>
>> -------Original Message-------
>> From: Paul Folkes <ausvelocity at gmail.com>
>> To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list <reflector at tvbf.org>
>> Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Nose Gear Doors
>> Sent: Aug 22 '13 5:36pm
>>
>> Thanks for the input,everyone.  My only reason for thinking to use just
>> Cabosil is that my old manual says it is great for filling nicks, chips and
>> small gaps.  However, I think that you are all right, and that 'belts and
>> braces' is better in that area, and so I am going to use milled fibre and
>> cabo mix to infill and cover with fine bid.  That should do it!
>>
>> Thanks again everyone.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>  Paul Folkes
>> XLRG
>> VH-VVX
>> *building but a looooong way to go.*
>> * *
>>
>>
>>
>> On 23 August 2013 08:07, Matt Bucko <mbuc310 at cox.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Andy, you are correct.
>>> Matt
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 8/22/2013 12:53 PM, Andrew Ellzey wrote:
>>>
>>>  Somebody can correct me, if I am wrong, but cab o sil is only susposed
>>> to be used as a thinking agent, why don't you use milled glass fibers and
>>> structural epoxy. This mixture is then structural. Not just a non
>>> structural filler, unless that is what you are looking for, then you should
>>> again use structural or non structural epoxy, and mill glass beads, and
>>> then thicken it with cab o sil.
>>>
>>> Andy Ellzey
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Aug 22, 2013, at 5:07 PM, Clayton Chase <chasec at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>    I'm having the same problem Paul is only in my case it's because I
>>> can't cut straight, not that the factory made the hole wrong.  I've made a
>>> picture that shows the situation perhaps a little more clearly.
>>>  I was thinking that since the cab-o-sil is not very thick and is
>>> already backed by the flange fiberglass it would be strong enough on its
>>> own.    Does anyone have any opinions on this?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  On Wed, Aug 21, 2013 at 7:28 PM, Paul Folkes <ausvelocity at gmail.com>wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Bob,
>>>>
>>>> thanks.  I did something similar to get the bend in the doors to match
>>>> the contour of the fuselage, which is now good.  My problem is uneven gaps
>>>> between the door edges and the edges of the hole, because the hole is not
>>>> square.
>>>>
>>>>  Paul Folkes
>>>> XLRG
>>>> VH-VVX
>>>> *building but a looooong way to go.*
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>  On 22 August 2013 12:04, Bob Jackson (Jax Tech) <bobj at jaxtechllc.com>wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>   Paul,
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> An alternative to filling the gaps is to bend the doors to fit the
>>>>> fuselage opening.  When we first fit our gull wing doors to the fuselage,
>>>>> the doors on both sides did not follow the exact contour of the fuselage,
>>>>> and the bottom corners of the door stuck out and in ~1/2" from the fuselage
>>>>> surface.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> We had great success in building a 'jig' involving 3/8" threaded rods,
>>>>> threaded through temporary holes cut into the door beams, and through 2x4's
>>>>> temporarily fixed to the insides and outsides of the fuselage for
>>>>> leverage.  By turning nuts on the threaded rod we could 'spring' the doors
>>>>> into proper alignment.  The next step then was to heat the door (multiple
>>>>> hot air guns and heat lamps until the door fiberglass was almost too hot to
>>>>> touch) so that the epoxy would 'flow' slightly and the door would bend
>>>>> slightly and assume the new desired shape that was flush with the fuselage
>>>>> skin.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I think you only can do this 'trick' a few times before the epoxy
>>>>> begins to 'work harden' and will no longer re-flow and bend.  We learned
>>>>> trial-and-error that we needed to 'over-spring' the bending corrections
>>>>> (e.g., if we needed to move the door in 1/2", then using the nuts on the
>>>>> threaded rod actually bend it in 1" while heating it up).  Once we heated
>>>>> it up with something like twice the correction needed, once it cooled down
>>>>> after a few hours and we removed the rig, the door would loose about half
>>>>> of the correction and spring back to 'about right'.  One or two cycles of
>>>>> this and our doors now fit perfectly!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> This doesn't seem to be a technique that too many people know about,
>>>>> but it worked great for us and I think it should also work on you nose gear
>>>>> doors.
>>>>>
>>>>> Good luck!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Bob Jackson
>>>>>
>>>>> Turbo-Cross Country Velocity XL-RG
>>>>>
>>>>> N2XF
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>  ------------------------------
>>>>>
>>>>> *From:* reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org]
>>>>> *On Behalf Of *Paul Folkes
>>>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 21, 2013 8:36 PM
>>>>> *To:* Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
>>>>> *Subject:* REFLECTOR: Nose Gear Doors
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm looking for some advice from the collective wisdom.  I am working
>>>>> on the nose gear doors.  I have an older, fast-build kit and have to make
>>>>> my own flange (no problem there). My problem is the hole cut out by the
>>>>> factory is not square and there are a few dings and chips from moves from
>>>>> garage to garage to hangar by the previous owner. This all means that there
>>>>> are some uneven and quite large (up to 1/4 inch) gaps around the
>>>>> pre-moulded doors that I need to fill and reshape to get the hole square
>>>>> with nice straight edges.  What is the best process and material for this?
>>>>>  I am thinking to cover the door piece in duct tape or saran wrap and hot
>>>>> glue or bondo it into place, wipe cabosil into the gaps around the door,
>>>>> and then sand square when cured.  Any comments, please?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Paul Folkes
>>>>>
>>>>> XLRG
>>>>>
>>>>> VH-VVX
>>>>>
>>>>> *building but a looooong way to go.*
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>>>>
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>>  ------------------------------
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>
>
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