REFLECTOR: Nose Gear Doors

Fri Aug 23 08:29:07 CDT 2013

Good idea, Jerry.  I'll see if I can find a local supplier of a like
material.

Thanks,

Paul Folkes
XLRG
VH-VVX
*building but a looooong way to go.*

On 23 August 2013 23:12, <jerry at jlbent.com> wrote:

> Just one additional thought.  I find fine BID to be a pain.  It doesn't
> drape well and I think it produces a thcker final solution.  I have
> purchased two lighter weight BID's that are called tooling cloth on
> Aircraft Spruce site.   One is 3.75 oz and the other is 1.45 oz.  I keep
> both on hand for those situations where I need to add some protection from
> chiping, but need very little build up.  The 1.45 oz cloth is nearly no
> existent in a single layer.  It drapes extremely well and is much stronger
> than just filler.
>
> Adding these two cloth options just provides more ways to fix mistakes
> with very nice cosmetic finish.
>
>
> Jerry Brainard
> Jerry at JLBEnt.com
>
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
> From: Paul Folkes <ausvelocity at gmail.com>
> To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list <reflector at tvbf.org>
> Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Nose Gear Doors
> Sent: Aug 22 '13 5:36pm
>
> Thanks for the input,everyone.  My only reason for thinking to use just
> Cabosil is that my old manual says it is great for filling nicks, chips and
> small gaps.  However, I think that you are all right, and that 'belts and
> braces' is better in that area, and so I am going to use milled fibre and
> cabo mix to infill and cover with fine bid.  That should do it!
>
> Thanks again everyone.
>
> Regards,
>
>  Paul Folkes
> XLRG
> VH-VVX
> *building but a looooong way to go.*
> * *
>
>
>
> On 23 August 2013 08:07, Matt Bucko <mbuc310 at cox.net> wrote:
>
>> Andy, you are correct.
>> Matt
>>
>>
>>
>> On 8/22/2013 12:53 PM, Andrew Ellzey wrote:
>>
>>  Somebody can correct me, if I am wrong, but cab o sil is only susposed
>> to be used as a thinking agent, why don't you use milled glass fibers and
>> structural epoxy. This mixture is then structural. Not just a non
>> structural filler, unless that is what you are looking for, then you should
>> again use structural or non structural epoxy, and mill glass beads, and
>> then thicken it with cab o sil.
>>
>> Andy Ellzey
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 22, 2013, at 5:07 PM, Clayton Chase <chasec at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>    I'm having the same problem Paul is only in my case it's because I
>> can't cut straight, not that the factory made the hole wrong.  I've made a
>> picture that shows the situation perhaps a little more clearly.
>>  I was thinking that since the cab-o-sil is not very thick and is already
>> backed by the flange fiberglass it would be strong enough on its own.
>> Does anyone have any opinions on this?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  On Wed, Aug 21, 2013 at 7:28 PM, Paul Folkes <ausvelocity at gmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Bob,
>>>
>>> thanks.  I did something similar to get the bend in the doors to match
>>> the contour of the fuselage, which is now good.  My problem is uneven gaps
>>> between the door edges and the edges of the hole, because the hole is not
>>> square.
>>>
>>>  Paul Folkes
>>> XLRG
>>> VH-VVX
>>> *building but a looooong way to go.*
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  On 22 August 2013 12:04, Bob Jackson (Jax Tech) <bobj at jaxtechllc.com>wrote:
>>>
>>>>   Paul,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> An alternative to filling the gaps is to bend the doors to fit the
>>>> fuselage opening.  When we first fit our gull wing doors to the fuselage,
>>>> the doors on both sides did not follow the exact contour of the fuselage,
>>>> and the bottom corners of the door stuck out and in ~1/2" from the fuselage
>>>> surface.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> We had great success in building a 'jig' involving 3/8" threaded rods,
>>>> threaded through temporary holes cut into the door beams, and through 2x4's
>>>> temporarily fixed to the insides and outsides of the fuselage for
>>>> leverage.  By turning nuts on the threaded rod we could 'spring' the doors
>>>> into proper alignment.  The next step then was to heat the door (multiple
>>>> hot air guns and heat lamps until the door fiberglass was almost too hot to
>>>> touch) so that the epoxy would 'flow' slightly and the door would bend
>>>> slightly and assume the new desired shape that was flush with the fuselage
>>>> skin.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I think you only can do this 'trick' a few times before the epoxy
>>>> begins to 'work harden' and will no longer re-flow and bend.  We learned
>>>> trial-and-error that we needed to 'over-spring' the bending corrections
>>>> (e.g., if we needed to move the door in 1/2", then using the nuts on the
>>>> threaded rod actually bend it in 1" while heating it up).  Once we heated
>>>> it up with something like twice the correction needed, once it cooled down
>>>> after a few hours and we removed the rig, the door would loose about half
>>>> of the correction and spring back to 'about right'.  One or two cycles of
>>>> this and our doors now fit perfectly!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> This doesn't seem to be a technique that too many people know about,
>>>> but it worked great for us and I think it should also work on you nose gear
>>>> doors.
>>>>
>>>> Good luck!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Bob Jackson
>>>>
>>>> Turbo-Cross Country Velocity XL-RG
>>>>
>>>> N2XF
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>  ------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> *From:* reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org]
>>>> *On Behalf Of *Paul Folkes
>>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 21, 2013 8:36 PM
>>>> *To:* Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
>>>> *Subject:* REFLECTOR: Nose Gear Doors
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi all,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I'm looking for some advice from the collective wisdom.  I am working
>>>> on the nose gear doors.  I have an older, fast-build kit and have to make
>>>> my own flange (no problem there). My problem is the hole cut out by the
>>>> factory is not square and there are a few dings and chips from moves from
>>>> garage to garage to hangar by the previous owner. This all means that there
>>>> are some uneven and quite large (up to 1/4 inch) gaps around the
>>>> pre-moulded doors that I need to fill and reshape to get the hole square
>>>> with nice straight edges.  What is the best process and material for this?
>>>>  I am thinking to cover the door piece in duct tape or saran wrap and hot
>>>> glue or bondo it into place, wipe cabosil into the gaps around the door,
>>>> and then sand square when cured.  Any comments, please?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Paul Folkes
>>>>
>>>> XLRG
>>>>
>>>> VH-VVX
>>>>
>>>> *building but a looooong way to go.*
>>>>     _______________________________________________
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>>>
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>  ------------------------------
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