REFLECTOR: Getting close...couple questions

sbjknox sbjknox at earthlink.net
Mon Jan 9 20:20:17 CST 2012


From: "Geoff Gerhardt" <geoff.gerhardt at gmail.com>

> So, next weekend, I will likely call the fuel truck over.  I have a couple
> questions.  What's the best way to calibrate the fuel tank levels?  I have
> capacitance fuel sensors as well as sight gauges.  What I'm thinking is
> that I'll get one tank filled up in increments to allow calibration, then
> use a fuel pump to pump it over to the other tank and calibrate that one.
> Then, open up the vents and sump connections to allow them to equalize.
> I'm thinking it would be best not to have full tanks for first taxi tests
> and takeoff.  Or, am I over thinking this - should I just fill both tanks
> to the brim?
>
> Secondly, for first engine start, I would like to leave the prop off to
> allow for close inspection of the engine while its running to adjust idle
> or look for leaks without getting my head chopped off.  Is there any issue
> running the engine for brief periods without a prop (IO360)?
> Geoff
>
Geoff, some thoughts on that...

1) Depending on how well you get along with the fuel truck driver he may not 
want to hang around that long for you to fill one tank.  Or you could do it 
in 5gal increments.  That should be ok as I don't think using smaller 
increments would be of much practical value.

2) If you do it from 5gal jugs, be very wary of static build-up and 
discharge.  Make sure you have the jugs electrically connected to airframe 
(fuel tank).  The attached photos show what I use when I fuel my Velocity.

3) I don't understand how, when you go to fill the second tank, how you can 
use a pump and measure each increment.  If you transfer (drain into jugs), 
be aware of 2) above.

4) Whan I calibrated my fuel gages, I taped a piece of paper next to each 
sight-gage and marked on that rather than try and make permanent markings 
until I was satisfied that all was well.

5) I think you will get a loud "carry only as much gas as you need plus a 
small reserve" from near everyone!

6) Do not try to run a Lycoming with no prop.  I tried that with a Lyc 320 
when I was developing my DIY EFI for it and did not want to work around a 
moving prop.  It is a perfect way to destroy a starter in the event a 
cylinder fires a little too soon and kicks-back and the starter absorbs the 
the energy and comes apart. (How do I know this?)  What I did was get a 
large automotive flywheel and machine it to match up to the prop flange.  It 
must be carefully centered because any unbalance will cause the engine to 
shake like a dog passing razor blades.  But once balanced, the engine will 
run smooth at all rpms for as long as you need.  I placed a box fan on top 
of the engine blowing down for cooling.  This is sufficient since you will 
be producing very little power and thus little heat.

$0.02

Sid Knox
Oklahoma

Velocity  173 RG  N199RS
Starduster  N666SK
KR2         N24TC
W7QJQ

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