REFLECTOR: Getting close...couple questions

Tom Cacek hytec45 at aol.com
Mon Jan 9 19:27:25 CST 2012


That nose strut is a cinch to change if you make a simple tool.  Take a piece of 3/4" X 1.8" flat steel strip you can get from any hardware store.  Cut a piece the length of the gas strut.  Use a 1/2" drill bit and on the same side of the strip about 1/2" in from each end and centered, put a countersunk divot about 3/8" across but do not drill thru.  Now clamp each end of the strip in a vice  about 1" from the end and bend a 90' bend on each end on the same side of the divot.  Now compress the new strut and place it between the divots.  This should keep the strut compressed about 1 1/2".  Now you can reach inside with the strut in this "Jig" and manually raise the nose gear until the two ball joints match the spacing of the compressed strut.  Snap each end of the strut on, and raise the gear slightly, and the "jig" will fall off.  Install clip springs, and that's it.  You may have to "trial and error" it to find the best spacing for your ball joints, but it's easy to make one longer or shorter.  Don't know if it's mentioned anywhere, but for best longevity, place the shaft end of the strut down to keep the seals covered with fluid.
TEC   



-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Gerhardt <geoff.gerhardt at gmail.com>
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list <reflector at tvbf.org>
Sent: Mon, Jan 9, 2012 4:41 pm
Subject: REFLECTOR: Getting close...couple questions


I had a great weekend at the hangar where I finished up a few major jobs.  Got my panel back in and buttoned down.  Retractable gear works perfectly now.  One job that I'd been avoiding is replacement of the gas spring that assists emergency deployment of the nose gear.  The spring that was in there had gotten weak and was taking forever to push the nose gear over center.  But, wow, what an ordeal to replace that.  My arms look like I've been fighting cats as they're all scratched up from reaching into the keel.  Its done, tho.  I hope it doesn't need replacing for another 10 yrs. 


I also re-checked my fuel system now that its fully plumbed - found a couple minor leaks that I fixed. 


So, next weekend, I will likely call the fuel truck over.  I have a couple questions.  What's the best way to calibrate the fuel tank levels?  I have capacitance fuel sensors as well as sight gauges.  What I'm thinking is that I'll get one tank filled up in increments to allow calibration, then use a fuel pump to pump it over to the other tank and calibrate that one. Then, open up the vents and sump connections to allow them to equalize.  I'm thinking it would be best not to have full tanks for first taxi tests and takeoff.  Or, am I over thinking this - should I just fill both tanks to the brim?


Secondly, for first engine start, I would like to leave the prop off to allow for close inspection of the engine while its running to adjust idle or look for leaks without getting my head chopped off.  Is there any issue running the engine for brief periods without a prop (IO360)?


Thanks.


Geoff




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-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Gerhardt <geoff.gerhardt at gmail.com>
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list <reflector at tvbf.org>
Sent: Mon, Jan 9, 2012 4:41 pm
Subject: REFLECTOR: Getting close...couple questions


I had a great weekend at the hangar where I finished up a few major jobs.  Got my panel back in and buttoned down.  Retractable gear works perfectly now.  One job that I'd been avoiding is replacement of the gas spring that assists emergency deployment of the nose gear.  The spring that was in there had gotten weak and was taking forever to push the nose gear over center.  But, wow, what an ordeal to replace that.  My arms look like I've been fighting cats as they're all scratched up from reaching into the keel.  Its done, tho.  I hope it doesn't need replacing for another 10 yrs. 


I also re-checked my fuel system now that its fully plumbed - found a couple minor leaks that I fixed. 


So, next weekend, I will likely call the fuel truck over.  I have a couple questions.  What's the best way to calibrate the fuel tank levels?  I have capacitance fuel sensors as well as sight gauges.  What I'm thinking is that I'll get one tank filled up in increments to allow calibration, then use a fuel pump to pump it over to the other tank and calibrate that one. Then, open up the vents and sump connections to allow them to equalize.  I'm thinking it would be best not to have full tanks for first taxi tests and takeoff.  Or, am I over thinking this - should I just fill both tanks to the brim?


Secondly, for first engine start, I would like to leave the prop off to allow for close inspection of the engine while its running to adjust idle or look for leaks without getting my head chopped off.  Is there any issue running the engine for brief periods without a prop (IO360)?


Thanks.


Geoff




_______________________________________________
o change your email address, visit http://www.tvbf.org/mailman/listinfo/reflector
Visit the gallery!  www.tvbf.org/gallery
ser:pw = tvbf:jamaicangoose
heck new archives: www.tvbf.org/pipermail
heck old archives: http://www.tvbf.org/archives/velocity/maillist.html

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