REFLECTOR: Cowling Attachment

[Mark Magee]

Bill,
Thanks, this data is a huge timesaver. I already have my bird flying on 10's and 8's. I hope the retrofit will be a little easier than from scratch, but possibly more labor intensive. Would you mind a few spec's?
How many fasteners used on:
1) leading edge top cowl (or if if hinged/whatever)
2) leading edge bottom cowl
3) port and stbd side top cowl
4) port and stbd side bottom cowl
I frankly think I have considerably more fasteners that is safely needed. I think I have 8 long #10 on the dog house and know it only needs four. My battery hatch has 10 #10s and I will reduce that number if I don't go with a hinged, forward opening affair.
I am concerned about the ones installed that that are not attached to the receptacle, I understand the reason but wish there was a better solution. I have been routinely repairing damage to the MT back there...  :(
Mark B. Magee
Sent from IPhone 4

On Feb 12, 2012, at 5:27 AM, Laura Walker <blwalker105 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Mark,
> 
> The longer posts I used on my doghouse are the ZG28S3-15, although they are at the very upper limit of the receptacle. The ZG28S3-16 would be better. 
> 
> You don't need their installation tool, but will need their Template-213 drilling plate. Since you won't be attaching them to your cowling you simply place the post through the cowling into the receptacle, screw it in until it is flush, then pop out the little plastic lock retainer. Now turn the post slightly in either direction until you feel the lock click into place. Done. If you have a blind hole, you can drill the third hole which lets you push out the lock retainer from the front side. I didn't need to drill any of these, just the two attachment holes.
> 
> I also used hard rivets and a rivet squeezer, but pop rivets would work fine.
> 
> Just keep a little plastic container in your plane to store them while your cowling is off.
> 
> I also made quasi hard points at the 4 doghouse holes. First drill through only the doghouse but not into the tabs. Then, from the underside, use something like a 3/4" hole saw to open it up through the foam but only just to the outer skin. Gouge out a little under the inner skin and fill with a wet micro/flox slurry. When cured, put the doghouse in place and drill back through your original hole and now into your tabs. 
> 
> Bill
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
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