REFLECTOR: STD RG Trim

[Scott Derrick]

The unequal fuel born is because of the miss adjusted rudder trim.  The fuel is acting as a really big BALL and is moving with the litttle ball.

Glenn Babcock <glennbabcock at roadrunner.com> wrote:

>Izzy,
>
>Here's what I did:
>
>- On the ground, level the plane.  Use a rotary laser level to level the wings left to right, you can get one for under $100.  Put sawhorses or something under the wings to hold the position.  Also level the plane front to back.
>- Verify that the wing incidence is correct for both wings using the incidence gauge.  While you're at it verify the canard incidence.
>- Verify the strake leading edge position on both sides.
>- If needed, shim the wings and/or canard.  If the strakes are out that's a more complicated fix!
>- Now check that the TC is level (mine wasn't, making the problem look worse than it was).  The ball should be right in the center.
>- If you made no corrections in the wings or canard, shim the rudder (if you made corrections, test fly first to see if it's still out).  I found that you can hot glue bits of tongue depressor at the top, middle and bottom of the rudder then trim them down as needed.  A small amount of shim makes a big difference!  Make sure that the rudder touches all three shims when it's resting.
>- Also check the opposite rudder, you may be able to trim a SMALL amount off of that side.
>- Once you have the correct amount of shim, fill the gap with epoxy mixed with micro glass or flox, then after it cures sand it till it's neat.  It's very easy to do.
>
>The fuel not draining evenly may be due to a leaking fuel cap.  Remove the cap and coat the O-rings with Fuelube.  Make sure you get the little one on the stem as well as the big one on the rim.
>
>Regards,
>Glenn
>
>
>On Sep 28, 2011, at 9:06 AM, Dugas Bellsouth wrote:
>
>> I did the same only used 1/16" angle aluminum. I trimmed a 1.5" so when placed inside of the winglet it was flush with the airflow surface on the fuselage side of the winglet. I the epoxied it to the inside of the winglet and flew. Worked great. Still there and did not require all the glass work. 
>> 
>> Rene' Dugas
>> Sent from my iPhone4
>> 
>> On Sep 27, 2011, at 5:56 PM, Scott Derrick <scott at tnstaafl.net> wrote:
>> 
>>> Trim the left rudder out until the ball is in the center.
>>> 
>>> Tape the vertical with duct tape near the lower part of the rudder. Place a shim between the rudder and the vertical, about an 1/8 inch thick.  Then fill the gap with micro or epoxy glue, about 2 inches long, so it sticks to the rudder.  Let cure, clean it up and fly. If that was to much file the new tab down a bit and test fly again.  If the ball is still out, add another 1/8 inch and test fly.  Do this until the ball is in the center. 
>>> 
>>> Once you have the ball in the center, yaw trim, you can evaluate the roll trim.   If the plane still wants to roll and the roll trim cannot handle that you can shim both or one wing.  You usually want to shim the light wing first by taking some of the aoa out of that wing by shimming the lower bolt. If thta s not enough add in more aoa to the heavy wing by shimming the upper bolts.
>>> 
>>> Scott
>>> 
>>> Izzy Brownfield <iznstacy at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> I'm a new owner of a STD RG with io-360 three blade MT prop 
>>>> At cruise T&B indicator is half ball to the left with a slight left turn tendency. Fuel is consumed from the right tank at twice the rate of the left tank. 
>>>> To center the ball it requires quite a bit of left rudder and light right aileron pressure. 
>>>> What adjustment is needed to be made to correct this?
>>>> Thanks
>>>> Izzy
>>>> 5txo
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
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>
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