REFLECTOR: Franklin Will not turnover when hot

[Stockman, Bill]

I had similar issues early on with my IO360CIC with the factory starter, mags and aircraft battery.

I have since changed to a single Rose EI, a skytec starter, small 55amp alternator and a large SUV gel cell battery (used in the Navigator SUVs).    It starts easily hot or cold.
I have even  jumped started other aircraft from my Velocity.

I fixed my alternator problem with a new one from the factory (about $200).    The old symptoms were minor noise in the headsets, wagging amp meter needle and then finally no charging.
I did an autopsy on the dead alternator and found the rectifier was melted in several places.   There appeared to be quite bit of oil and dirt in the alternator.
Since its hidden by the cover on the back of the alternator it would be hard to inspect without taking the alternator off.

Bill Stockman
Senior Associate
Dayton Aerospace, Inc.

937.426.4300  Office
937.369.4799  Cell
bill.stockman at daytonaero.com

From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On Behalf Of aminetech at bluefrog.com
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2011 11:10 AM
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Franklin Will not turnover when hot

Mike,

I'd try jumping the battery with a car battery, to see if there's a difference.

John

--- mikewatsspg at gmail.com wrote:

From: Michael Watson <mikewatsspg at gmail.com>
To: sbjknox <sbjknox at earthlink.net>, Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list <reflector at tvbf.org>
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Franklin Will not turnover when hot
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 11:01:21 -0400

Sid,

Timing is checked at every annual, It's always right on, I actually have it set
one degree retarded from recommended setting.  The engine does NOT kick
back it just stops. releasing the starter releases the compression. I am an electronic
engineer and am familiar with and tried most of the test procedures you mentioned.
11.2 volts at the starter while cranking, .8volts drop across main contractor and .65volts
across starter contractor. After three tries, none of the wires get hot.

Jeff,

I'd love to, but it just wont fit.



On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 11:41 PM, sbjknox <sbjknox at earthlink.net<mailto:sbjknox at earthlink.net>> wrote:
I have been thinking about my last post and the possible early timing issue
and realize that for a test you don't need to mess with the timing, simply
try and crank it with the mags off.

But beyond that, I suggest you make some voltage measurements...
1) Connect a voltmeter directly between the 'hot' starter terminal and the
case ground.  Crank for a couple seconds (mags off) and record voltage.
2) Repeat with the voltmeter  directly across the battery posts, not on the
cable clamps (or whatever you use to connect to the posts).
3) *Important* don't remain in the "locked rotor" crank mode for more than
two or three seconds.  There will likely be hundreds of Amps flowing and
this equates to *many* Kilowatts of heat being generated!
4) After taking the voltage readings, feel with your hand, each and every
connector, terminal, the starter and master solenoids for something hot.
Warm can be normal but not hot.  Don't forget the return (GND) path from the
battery to the engine.  In that short of time, the mass of the battery and
starter is such that you probably won't notice any heat build-up in them but
be assured that if you hold the locked-rotor current for an extended period
of time, you will likely destroy the starter and/or battery and solenoid(s).
(altho, the long run of  #2 wire might save it).

A six-dollar Harbor Freight digital voltmeter and some basic
trouble-shooting  will serve you better than throwing several hundred
dollars worth of starters and batterys on speculation at the problem.


Sid Knox
Oklahoma

Velocity  173 RG  N199RS
Starduster  N666SK
KR2         N24TC
W7QJQ

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--
Mike W.
1997 Velocity Elite RG
Franklin /IVO Electric CS
Dual GRT EFIS HX Synthetic Vision
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