REFLECTOR: CHT too cool

KMis178813 at aol.com KMis178813 at aol.com
Tue Jun 9 20:04:03 CDT 2009


Chuck 
 
  The early Rose Electro Air systems (which I believe you have) do  make 
timing adjustments based on RPM and Manifold pressure. The Base timing is  
set, as was previously described, if your pickup is from the mag hole.  There 
was also another design that had a trigger wheel on the propeller end of  the 
crank shaft. Either way the only way to set true base timing is to put the  
ignition system in base timing mode and use a timing light (which also 
requires  really big Gonads!!). With the base timing set there is a dial under 
the cover  of the control unit to adjust the base timing offset and full 
timing advance.  One of the terminals, not normally used, can be temporarily 
hooked up to a volt  meter in the cabin to observe what the timing advance is 
at any given moment.  All this from memory ( Scary! ) If you need real 
instructions I'll need to dig  the paper work out.
   I'm sure it's always possible that the unit is not advancing  at all??  
Good thing to check every so often!!
  
      Ken      
 
 
In a message dated 6/9/2009 7:25:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
michalk at awpi.com writes:

How do  you change timing?  Is it all in software?
I'm pretty sure only the  PRISM system uses feedback of peak pressure
pulses to set timing, and all  others like the ElectroAir run open loop.
How would it know what your  engine requirements are?

SlvEgl99 at aol.com wrote:
> I have a Rose  ElectroAir on one side. It is the old style for an IO540.
> To time it,  set #1 to TDC. Insert a pin in the housing to hold the rotor
> (large  gear) in position. Insert the ignition into the engine with #1 at
> TDC  and the pin in place. Tighten the bolt that secures the ignition and
>  then remove the pin. The ignition does adjust timing based on RPM to
>  advance timing when at higher RPM.
>  
> Bob  Wood
>  
> In a message dated 6/9/2009 4:50:01 P.M. Eastern  Daylight Time,
> cjensen at dts9000.com writes:
> 
>   Brian,
> 
>     I'm running a mag on  one side and a Rose Ignition on the other.  I
>      was under the impression that the Rose timing is supposed to be
>   self-adjusting.  I wonder if that's a misconception?
>  
>     Chuck Jensen
> 
> 
>   -----Original Message-----
>     From:  reflector-bounces at tvbf.org 
[mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org]On
>   Behalf Of Brian Michalk
>     Sent: Tuesday,  June 09, 2009 11:19 AM
>     To: Velocity Aircraft Owners  and Builders list
>     Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: CHT too  cool
> 
> 
>     Duh.  It's right  there.
> 
>     With low CHT's, it's an excellent  opportunity to advance timing.  
Yours
>     might be  a little late, and advancing should bring the temps up a
>   little, because you would be making more power.
>  
>     Chuck Jensen wrote:
>      > Cylinder head temp problems are not unusual, but I have a  
different
>     > twist.  My CHT's are too  cool.  I can only recall once or twice
>     that  a
>     > cylinder head ever got to 400F.  Most  run 350F to 390F during hot,
>     > hard climbs, but  at cruise, and running lean of peak, it's not
>      unusual
>     > for 2 to be below 300F and the rest  just barely over 300F.
>     > 
>   > Now, it well known that engines are most efficient at higher  temps
>     and
>     > I believe  Lyco's recommendation for an IO-540 K1A5 is CHTs in the
>   375F
>     > to 400F temp range.   This would also seem to imply that I'm 
suffering
>      > unnecessary cooling drag from overcooling the CHs.  Oil temps  at
>     > cruise are 195F-200F but will rise to 240F  during long climbs.
>     > 
>   > So, my question is, 'is there a way 'adjust' cooling to CHs'  that may
>     > reduce drag by reducing inflow  through the overhead NACAs for
>     > downdraft  cooling, without sending the CHTs too high during climb 
or
>   > aggravating oil temps during those climbs as  well?
>     >
>     > Chuck  Jensen
>     >
>     >   
>     >
>      >
>      ------
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