REFLECTOR: Aileron control stick pound pull
KMis178813 at aol.com
KMis178813 at aol.com
Sat Jan 3 22:31:49 CST 2009
Andy
I found the Blaster TDL at Lowes.
Ken
In a message dated 1/3/2009 10:21:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
ajlz72756 at yahoo.com writes:
I agree with a light oil making it worse. I tried to use Automatic
transmission fluid only on the rod ends at the rubber cups and it made it worse. I
cleaned this off with denatured alcohol and everything freed up again. I am
going to try some dry graphite lube next or I'll try your suggestion of "Blaster
TDL". Where did you buy this stuff?
Andy
____________________________________
From: "KMis178813 at aol.com" <KMis178813 at aol.com>
To: reflector at tvbf.org
Sent: Saturday, January 3, 2009 8:31:33 PM
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Aileron control stick pound pull
Jack
As Scott Baker mentioned don't try to fix the problem before it actually
is one. The stick control is so much lighter in flight. I don't know if it is
from the vibrations in the airframe of the air loads on the control
surfaces, but it gets a lot better when flying and looser with hours. Just make sure
everything is secure and nothing is dragging (except the cables). I have seen
that the trim springs will not overcome the drag on the ground but work
perfect in flight.
Using a light oil (3-in-1) in the past, I found that the cables start to
stick. They actually stick so bad that they would make a vibration noise
internally. In the cold they also get a sluggish feel. Since that, I used
"Blaster TDL (the dry lube) with PTFE". It took the drag out by near 50%??? of what
the oil did. I would imagine that any PTFE spray would work. Maybe someone
else knows of something better.
Ken
In a message dated 1/3/2009 8:38:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jackprock at comcast.net writes:
I've tried installing mine a few times. The force without the cables
installed is non-existent. Once I connect
up the two cables, the return springs can't even bring them back to center.
I talked to the factory
about it a while back and they said to remove the dust covers on the ends
that are going to be inside...
they aren't needed. I also went and reamed out the dust covers that are
going to be in the engine
compartment. They are better, but still not great. My next idea is to use
cable grease. I haven't
done anything towards that, but just an idea at this point.
Jack
----- Original Message -----
From: _Jeff Howell_ (mailto:jeffreyhowell at hotmail.com)
To: _reflector at tvbf.org_ (mailto:reflector at tvbf.org)
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Aileron control stick pound pull
I just installed my cables and I have alot of friction as well. probably
more than 2 pounds... My cables are also 90" long wich is considerably longer
than the 54" useing currently. thanx Jeff
> From: _sbakr at comcast.net_ (mailto:sbakr at comcast.net)
> To: _reflector at tvbf.org_ (mailto:reflector at tvbf.org)
> Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 08:05:11 -0500
> Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Aileron control stick pound pull
>
> Hello Andy,
> Confirm the ailerons have freedom of movement with the cables
disconnected.
> Make sure the foam core does not interefer with the 6' long aileron torque
> tube inside the wing.
> The aileron push-pull cables will have more internal friction when they
are
> new. The tightness of the dust caps contributes to this. The friction
> caused by the dust caps will become less over time. When routing the
> push-pull cables, make as wide a bend as possible when turning the cables
> from the whale tale through the firewall. Too tight of a radius will cause
> internal friction.
> Note that stick force feel is different in the air than on the ground.
> Depending upon the tightness of the ailron trim spring, the ailerons can
> feel somewhat stiff on the ground - but feel great during flight.
> My advise not to worry about the 2# aileron stick force for now. Fly the
> aircraft and fine tune your determinations. The aileron control motion of
> the stick should be smooth - no binding action.
> Happy New Year!
> Scott B.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Andrew Ellzey" <ajlz72756 at yahoo.com>
> To: "Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list" <reflector at tvbf.org>
> Cc: <scottb at velocityaircraft.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 5:22 PM
> Subject: REFLECTOR: Aileron control stick pound pull
>
>
> I just completed rigging my aileron's and would like to know what pound
pull
> should be expected on the control stick. Using a cheep fish scale for a
pull
> gage I am getting about a 2lb pull needed for the first 1 inch of aileron
> travel and then a gradual increase to about 4lbs for full deflection. I
have
> an XLRG with the cut down keel mod so my bell cranks are rigged
accordingly
> (Velocity XL-5 Rigging). The 2lb pull is the best that I have been able to
> achieve and haven't lubed anything yet. It seems to me that the push pull
> cables should have been shorter to reduce the radius of the bend as it
> travels through the gear bulkheads. My push pull cables are 60 inches
long.
> Was I supposed to receive shorter cables with the cut down keel mod? Is
> there anyone on the reflector with the -5 option that hasn't installed
their
> push pull aileron cables that could measure their cables?
>
> The manual calls for white grease under the rubber cups, has anyone found
> anything better? And yes, I reamed my rubber cups to reduce or completely
> eliminate any drag from the rubber wipers of the cups. I know that some
say
> to completely remove the inboard cups, but if you do this the plastic
guide
> that is under the cups doesn't stay in place without the cups to hold
them.
>
> I took the factory demo ride before I bought my kit in 2005, and I don't
> remember the aileron pull to be this stiff. What I remember was a very
light
> touch needed to fly the factory XLRG.
>
> Andy Ellzey
> XLRG
>
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