REFLECTOR: (no subject)

Tue Sep 9 23:35:17 CDT 2008

Alex....

That's not mine....... I just downloaded that from the 
Eggenfellner Subaru Powerplant Installation
Best... Steve

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 22:15:30 -0500
From: velocity_pilot at verizon.net
To: reflector at tvbf.org
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: (no subject)

Good looking Subaru Steve- please let me
know when you get it cranked up!

Alex

From:
reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On Behalf Of steve korney

Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008
11:49 AM

To: Reflector Reflector

Subject: REFLECTOR: (no subject)

POWERPLANT INSTALLATION

    The big crate arrives.
     Hoisting the motor
     Nose Gear Leg and Wheel
     Motor Mounts
     Inspection Checklist - II - Powerplant Familiarization

The big crate arrives! 

Few things are more pleasing to the builder of a flying
machine than receiving a giant wooden crate with an engine in it! If you are
not yet ready to hang the motor, but just want to take a peek, open one of the
side panels of the shipping crate (leaving the top panel to protect the motor).

Some general advice from
the engineer...

"Somewhere in the beginning [of this guide, make] a mention of the
[benefit to be found through] liberal use of blue LOCKTITE on anything
installed without a locking device [this method] should be used. Also
mentioning [that] the [desirable] practice of always using the specified values
for torque when attaching anything to the engine aluminum casting and that less
torque, together with blue LOCKTITE will make the treads last so much longer.
Spark plugs should always be removed from a cold engine and new plugs with a
new crush gasket and anti seize compound should be used". OK...;^)

When you are ready to attach the hoist and sling, gather at least two strong
persons to uncrate the motor and tip it upright.

 [ ]
     Remove all panels of the shipping crate. (I built my daughter a tree house
     with my shipping crates).
 [ ]
     Slowly tip the engine, still bolted to the shipping palette, upright as it
     will go in the plane.
 [ ] A
     small amount of oil may spill from the exhaust pipe (if installed). This
     is a normal side-effect of shipping the motor on end.
 [ ]
     Position a pair of jack stands or wooden blocks under the aluminum engine
     mount plate so the engine rests level.
 [ ]
     Remove the temporary screws holding the ECM (Engine Control Module) and
     Fuel Pumps to the shipping crate.
 [ ] Coil
     up any excess wiring and fuel lines on top of motor. Fasten these items
     out of the way.
 [ ]
     Pre-drill for the major firewall fittings. Mounting bolts, hoses, cables
     and conduit pass-throughs.
 [ ]
     Polish, paint, or machine the firewall if desired.
 [ ]
     Gather the engine mount bolts and nuts and appropriate wrenches.
 [ ]
     Gather a spare ratcheting tiedown strap to help align the engine mount
     legs.
 [ ] Take
     note of the time.

Hoisting the motor

Be sure you have ample room to maneuver the engine hoist
into position over the engine, all the way to the airframe. Have assistance
standing by.

Do not allow the weight of the engine to rest on the engine mounting bolts
until all bolts have been inserted and properly torqued.

 [ ] Position
     the hoist hook directly centered about 4" over the engine air intake
     manifold. Do not attach straps to the manifold itself!

 [ ] Attach
     four strong ratcheting tiedown straps from the corners of the engine mount
     to the hook. Double up the straps where possible. 
 [ ] Attach
     another tiedown strap from the hook, under the PSRU bearing hub, and back
     to the hook. Make the ratchet handle accessible.
 [ ] Slowly
     raise the hoist adjusting the straps as needed to balance and level the
     engine.
 [ ] Remove
     the shipping palette.
 [ ] Move
     the hoist close to the airframe but not yet into position.

Nose Gear Leg and
Wheel

 [ ]
     Clean out any scale or debris in the motor mount bolt holes using a
     sandpaper roll or a drill. Do not enlarge the holes!
 [ ] Raise
     the hoist high enough to allow insertion of the nose gear leg into the
     receptacle. 

 [ ] Clean
     out any loose scale or debris from inside the nose gear mount receptacle
     tube using a drum sander drill bit. If you prefer, an automotive brake
     cylinder hone with a splash of kerosene makes short change of this task.
 [ ] Test
     fit the nose gear leg into the engine mount. It is likely to bind at the
     point where the mount tubes are welded to the gear tube.
 [ ] Remove
     the gear leg and polish the inside of the gear tube with a drum sander
     drill bit or brake cylinder hone until the nose gear fits snugly into the
     gear tube. A tight fit is desirable, but not so tight that you must use
     force to insert the leg.
 [ ] Swab
     out the inside of the gear tube with a rag on a stick. 
 [ ] Smear
     a light coating of Anti-sieze Compound onto the gear leg bearing surfaces
     and swab some more inside the gear tube.
 [ ] Insert
     the nose gear leg and finish drilling and reaming the bolt hole for the
     5/16" gear leg bolt. Use a 19/64" drill bit and 0.310"
     reamer to produce a snug bolt fit. Use a castellated lock nut to secure
     the bolt. Fiberlock nuts don't fare well near a hot exhaust pipe.
 [ ] Raise
     the hoist as necessary and install the nose wheel fork components and nose
     wheel. Loosely fasten these for now.

Motor Mounts

NOTE:  BE SURE YOU DO NOT PRE-DRILL
THE ENGINE MOUNT HOLES IN THE FIREWALL.  ONLY DRILL
THEM IN PLACE
THROUGH THE ENGINE MOUNT
 HOLES IN THE FRAME. 
THERE IS SOME LEFT-RIGHT FLEX IN THE UPPER ENGINE MOUNT ARMS, BUT NONE IN THE
LOWER 4 HOLES.

 [ ] Move
     the hoist to position the engine against the firewall.
 [ ] Shorten
     or lengthen the strap under the PSRU bearing hub as needed to orient the
     engine parallel to the firewall
 [ ] Raise
     or lower the aircraft's empennage to help align the engine mount. 

 [ ] INSERT
     ONE OF THE UPPER BOLTS FIRST. Insert all mount bolts from the cabin side. Loosely install
     washers and nuts. Some builders have chosen to use AN6-20 (corners) AN6-22
     (bottom center) [FOR AN RV-9 WITH 4-CYL ENGINE... ASK WHAT BOLTS TO USE
     FOR OTHER COMBINATIONS] bolts which are slightly shorter length than those
     provided by Vans. This eliminates the need for additional washers, but
     there's nothing wrong with using the bolts Vans gives you, with washers. 

 [ ] Note:
     If you need to, you can run a drill through the mount hole to ease the
     fit, but these bolts should be snug.
 [ ] INSERT
     THE OTHER UPPER BOLT NEXT.
 [ ] Reposition
     the hoist as required to bring the lower mount legs against the firewall.

 [ ] INSERT
     THE BOTTOM OUTBOARD BOLTS NEXT.

 [ ] If
     the mount legs appear slightly out of alignment with the firewall holes,
     pull the legs into place. The mount is precise, but able to flex slightly.
 [ ] Snug
     down the four bolts we have installed thus far. 
 [ ] With the
     hoist raised just enough to hold the weight off the nose wheel, drill the
     center bottom pair of engine mount bolt holes through the firewall.

 [ ] Clean
     any shavings away, and debur the holes as best you can.
 [ ] INSERT
     THE BOTTOM INBOARD BOLTS.
 [ ] Torque
     all engine mount bolts to 200 in/lbs and install cotter pins.
 [ ] Slowly
     lower the hoist and observe as weight is transferred to the landing gear.

I know this is not a Velocity,
but it makes sense..... Engine mounts and bolts move around a lot...

Best... Steve

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