REFLECTOR: (no subject)

Tue Sep 9 22:15:30 CDT 2008

Good looking Subaru Steve- please let me know when you get it cranked up!

Alex

  _____  

From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On
Behalf Of steve korney
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 11:49 AM
To: Reflector Reflector
Subject: REFLECTOR: (no subject)

POWERPLANT INSTALLATION

*	    <http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/powerplant.htm#TheBigCrate>
The big crate arrives.
*	     <http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/powerplant.htm#Hoisting>
Hoisting the motor
*	     <http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/powerplant.htm#GearLeg>
Nose Gear Leg and Wheel
*
<http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/powerplant.htm#MotorMounts> Motor
Mounts
*	     <http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/powerplant.htm#Checklist2>
Inspection Checklist - II - Powerplant Familiarization

The big crate arrives! 

  <http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/fwf_bigcrate.jpg> 

Few things are more pleasing to the builder of a flying machine than
receiving a giant wooden crate with an engine in it! If you are not yet
ready to hang the motor, but just want to take a peek, open one of the side
panels of the shipping crate (leaving the top panel to protect the motor). 
Some general advice from the engineer...
"Somewhere in the beginning [of this guide, make] a mention of the [benefit
to be found through] liberal use of blue LOCKTITE on anything installed
without a locking device [this method] should be used. Also mentioning
[that] the [desirable] practice of always using the specified values for
torque when attaching anything to the engine aluminum casting and that less
torque, together with blue LOCKTITE will make the treads last so much
longer. Spark plugs should always be removed from a cold engine and new
plugs with a new crush gasket and anti seize compound should be used".
OK...;^)
When you are ready to attach the hoist and sling, gather at least two strong
persons to uncrate the motor and tip it upright.

1.	[ ] Remove all panels of the shipping crate. (I built my daughter a
tree house with my shipping crates).
2.	[ ] Slowly tip the engine, still bolted to the shipping palette,
upright as it will go in the plane.
3.	[ ] A small amount of oil may spill from the exhaust pipe (if
installed). This is a normal side-effect of shipping the motor on end.
4.	[ ] Position a pair of jack stands or wooden blocks under the
aluminum engine mount plate so the engine rests level.
5.	[ ] Remove the temporary screws holding the ECM (Engine Control
Module) and Fuel Pumps to the shipping crate.
6.	[ ] Coil up any excess wiring and fuel lines on top of motor. Fasten
these items out of the way.
7.	[ ] Pre-drill for the major firewall fittings. Mounting bolts,
hoses, cables and conduit pass-throughs.
8.	[ ] Polish, paint, or machine the firewall if desired.
9.	[ ] Gather the engine mount bolts and nuts and appropriate wrenches.
10.	[ ] Gather a spare ratcheting tiedown strap to help align the engine
mount legs.
11.	[ ] Take note of the time.

Hoisting the motor

Be sure you have ample room to maneuver the engine hoist into position over
the engine, all the way to the airframe. Have assistance standing by.
Do not allow the weight of the engine to rest on the engine mounting bolts
until all bolts have been inserted and properly torqued.

12.	[ ] Position the hoist hook directly centered about 4" over the
engine air intake manifold. Do not attach straps to the manifold itself!

  <http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/fwf_sling.jpg> 

13.	[ ] Attach four strong ratcheting tiedown straps from the corners of
the engine mount to the hook. Double up the straps where possible. 
14.	[ ] Attach another tiedown strap from the hook, under the PSRU
bearing hub, and back to the hook. Make the ratchet handle accessible.
15.	[ ] Slowly raise the hoist adjusting the straps as needed to balance
and level the engine.
16.	[ ] Remove the shipping palette.
17.	[ ] Move the hoist close to the airframe but not yet into position.

Nose Gear Leg and Wheel

  <http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/fwf_debur1.jpg> 

18.	[ ] Clean out any scale or debris in the motor mount bolt holes
using a sandpaper roll or a drill. Do not enlarge the holes!
19.	[ ] Raise the hoist high enough to allow insertion of the nose gear
leg into the receptacle. 

  <http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/fwf_debur2.jpg> 

20.	[ ] Clean out any loose scale or debris from inside the nose gear
mount receptacle tube using a drum sander drill bit. If you prefer, an
automotive brake cylinder hone with a splash of kerosene makes short change
of this task.
21.	[ ] Test fit the nose gear leg into the engine mount. It is likely
to bind at the point where the mount tubes are welded to the gear tube.
22.	[ ] Remove the gear leg and polish the inside of the gear tube with
a drum sander drill bit or brake cylinder hone until the nose gear fits
snugly into the gear tube. A tight fit is desirable, but not so tight that
you must use force to insert the leg.
23.	[ ] Swab out the inside of the gear tube with a rag on a stick. 
24.	[ ] Smear a light coating of Anti-sieze Compound onto the gear leg
bearing surfaces and swab some more inside the gear tube.
25.	[ ] Insert the nose gear leg and finish drilling and reaming the
bolt hole for the 5/16" gear leg bolt. Use a 19/64" drill bit and 0.310"
reamer to produce a snug bolt fit. Use a castellated lock nut to secure the
bolt. Fiberlock nuts don't fare well near a hot exhaust pipe.
26.	[ ] Raise the hoist as necessary and install the nose wheel fork
components and nose wheel. Loosely fasten these for now.

  <http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/fwf_room1.jpg> 

Motor Mounts

NOTE:  BE SURE YOU DO NOT PRE-DRILL THE ENGINE MOUNT HOLES IN THE FIREWALL.
ONLY DRILL THEM IN PLACE THROUGH THE ENGINE MOUNT HOLES IN THE FRAME.  THERE
IS SOME LEFT-RIGHT FLEX IN THE UPPER ENGINE MOUNT ARMS, BUT NONE IN THE
LOWER 4 HOLES.

27.	[ ] Move the hoist to position the engine against the firewall.
28.	[ ] Shorten or lengthen the strap under the PSRU bearing hub as
needed to orient the engine parallel to the firewall
29.	[ ] Raise or lower the aircraft's empennage to help align the engine
mount. 

  <http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/fwf_tailsling.jpg> 

30.	[ ] INSERT ONE OF THE UPPER BOLTS FIRST. Insert all mount bolts from
the cabin side. Loosely install washers and nuts. Some builders have chosen
to use AN6-20 (corners) AN6-22 (bottom center) [FOR AN RV-9 WITH 4-CYL
ENGINE... ASK WHAT BOLTS TO USE FOR OTHER COMBINATIONS] bolts which are
slightly shorter length than those provided by Vans. This eliminates the
need for additional washers, but there's nothing wrong with using the bolts
Vans gives you, with washers. 

  <http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/fwf_mountur.jpg> 

31.	[ ] Note: If you need to, you can run a drill through the mount hole
to ease the fit, but these bolts should be snug.
32.	[ ] INSERT THE OTHER UPPER BOLT NEXT.
33.	[ ] Reposition the hoist as required to bring the lower mount legs
against the firewall.

34.	[ ] INSERT THE BOTTOM OUTBOARD BOLTS NEXT.

  <http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/fwf_mountlr.jpg> 

35.	[ ] If the mount legs appear slightly out of alignment with the
firewall holes, pull the legs into place. The mount is precise, but able to
flex slightly.
36.	[ ] Snug down the four bolts we have installed thus far. 
37.	[ ] With the hoist raised just enough to hold the weight off the
nose wheel, drill the center bottom pair of engine mount bolt holes through
the firewall.

  <http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/fwf_mountc.jpg> 

38.	[ ] Clean any shavings away, and debur the holes as best you can.
39.	[ ] INSERT THE BOTTOM INBOARD BOLTS.
40.	[ ] Torque all engine mount bolts to 200 in/lbs and install cotter
pins.
41.	[ ] Slowly lower the hoist and observe as weight is transferred to
the landing gear.

I know this is not a Velocity, but it makes sense..... Engine mounts and
bolts move around a lot...

Best... Steve

  _____  

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