REFLECTOR: (no subject)

[Brooke Wolf]

Good stuff Steve....But what is that engine doing on the FRONT of the airplane?

Brooke
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: steve korney 
  To: Reflector Reflector 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 12:48 PM
  Subject: REFLECTOR: (no subject)


    POWERPLANT INSTALLATION
    a..    The big crate arrives.
    b..     Hoisting the motor
    c..     Nose Gear Leg and Wheel
    d..     Motor Mounts
    e..     Inspection Checklist - II - Powerplant Familiarization
    The big crate arrives! 


  Few things are more pleasing to the builder of a flying machine than receiving a giant wooden crate with an engine in it! If you are not yet ready to hang the motor, but just want to take a peek, open one of the side panels of the shipping crate (leaving the top panel to protect the motor). 
  Some general advice from the engineer...
  "Somewhere in the beginning [of this guide, make] a mention of the [benefit to be found through] liberal use of blue LOCKTITE on anything installed without a locking device [this method] should be used. Also mentioning [that] the [desirable] practice of always using the specified values for torque when attaching anything to the engine aluminum casting and that less torque, together with blue LOCKTITE will make the treads last so much longer. Spark plugs should always be removed from a cold engine and new plugs with a new crush gasket and anti seize compound should be used". OK...;^)
  When you are ready to attach the hoist and sling, gather at least two strong persons to uncrate the motor and tip it upright.

    1.. [ ] Remove all panels of the shipping crate. (I built my daughter a tree house with my shipping crates).
    2.. [ ] Slowly tip the engine, still bolted to the shipping palette, upright as it will go in the plane.
    3.. [ ] A small amount of oil may spill from the exhaust pipe (if installed). This is a normal side-effect of shipping the motor on end.
    4.. [ ] Position a pair of jack stands or wooden blocks under the aluminum engine mount plate so the engine rests level.
    5.. [ ] Remove the temporary screws holding the ECM (Engine Control Module) and Fuel Pumps to the shipping crate.
    6.. [ ] Coil up any excess wiring and fuel lines on top of motor. Fasten these items out of the way.
    7.. [ ] Pre-drill for the major firewall fittings. Mounting bolts, hoses, cables and conduit pass-throughs.
    8.. [ ] Polish, paint, or machine the firewall if desired.
    9.. [ ] Gather the engine mount bolts and nuts and appropriate wrenches.
    10.. [ ] Gather a spare ratcheting tiedown strap to help align the engine mount legs.
    11.. [ ] Take note of the time.
  Hoisting the motor
  Be sure you have ample room to maneuver the engine hoist into position over the engine, all the way to the airframe. Have assistance standing by.
  Do not allow the weight of the engine to rest on the engine mounting bolts until all bolts have been inserted and properly torqued.

    12.. [ ] Position the hoist hook directly centered about 4" over the engine air intake manifold. Do not attach straps to the manifold itself!


    13.. [ ] Attach four strong ratcheting tiedown straps from the corners of the engine mount to the hook. Double up the straps where possible. 
    14.. [ ] Attach another tiedown strap from the hook, under the PSRU bearing hub, and back to the hook. Make the ratchet handle accessible.
    15.. [ ] Slowly raise the hoist adjusting the straps as needed to balance and level the engine.
    16.. [ ] Remove the shipping palette.
    17.. [ ] Move the hoist close to the airframe but not yet into position.
   

  Nose Gear Leg and Wheel


    18.. [ ] Clean out any scale or debris in the motor mount bolt holes using a sandpaper roll or a drill. Do not enlarge the holes!
    19.. [ ] Raise the hoist high enough to allow insertion of the nose gear leg into the receptacle. 


    20.. [ ] Clean out any loose scale or debris from inside the nose gear mount receptacle tube using a drum sander drill bit. If you prefer, an automotive brake cylinder hone with a splash of kerosene makes short change of this task.
    21.. [ ] Test fit the nose gear leg into the engine mount. It is likely to bind at the point where the mount tubes are welded to the gear tube.
    22.. [ ] Remove the gear leg and polish the inside of the gear tube with a drum sander drill bit or brake cylinder hone until the nose gear fits snugly into the gear tube. A tight fit is desirable, but not so tight that you must use force to insert the leg.
    23.. [ ] Swab out the inside of the gear tube with a rag on a stick. 
    24.. [ ] Smear a light coating of Anti-sieze Compound onto the gear leg bearing surfaces and swab some more inside the gear tube.
    25.. [ ] Insert the nose gear leg and finish drilling and reaming the bolt hole for the 5/16" gear leg bolt. Use a 19/64" drill bit and 0.310" reamer to produce a snug bolt fit. Use a castellated lock nut to secure the bolt. Fiberlock nuts don't fare well near a hot exhaust pipe.
    26.. [ ] Raise the hoist as necessary and install the nose wheel fork components and nose wheel. Loosely fasten these for now.


  Motor Mounts
  NOTE:  BE SURE YOU DO NOT PRE-DRILL THE ENGINE MOUNT HOLES IN THE FIREWALL.  ONLY DRILL THEM IN PLACE THROUGH THE ENGINE MOUNT HOLES IN THE FRAME.  THERE IS SOME LEFT-RIGHT FLEX IN THE UPPER ENGINE MOUNT ARMS, BUT NONE IN THE LOWER 4 HOLES.

    27.. [ ] Move the hoist to position the engine against the firewall.
    28.. [ ] Shorten or lengthen the strap under the PSRU bearing hub as needed to orient the engine parallel to the firewall
    29.. [ ] Raise or lower the aircraft's empennage to help align the engine mount. 


    30.. [ ] INSERT ONE OF THE UPPER BOLTS FIRST. Insert all mount bolts from the cabin side. Loosely install washers and nuts. Some builders have chosen to use AN6-20 (corners) AN6-22 (bottom center) [FOR AN RV-9 WITH 4-CYL ENGINE... ASK WHAT BOLTS TO USE FOR OTHER COMBINATIONS] bolts which are slightly shorter length than those provided by Vans. This eliminates the need for additional washers, but there's nothing wrong with using the bolts Vans gives you, with washers. 


    31.. [ ] Note: If you need to, you can run a drill through the mount hole to ease the fit, but these bolts should be snug.
    32.. [ ] INSERT THE OTHER UPPER BOLT NEXT.
    33.. [ ] Reposition the hoist as required to bring the lower mount legs against the firewall.
    34.. [ ] INSERT THE BOTTOM OUTBOARD BOLTS NEXT.


    35.. [ ] If the mount legs appear slightly out of alignment with the firewall holes, pull the legs into place. The mount is precise, but able to flex slightly.
    36.. [ ] Snug down the four bolts we have installed thus far. 
    37.. [ ] With the hoist raised just enough to hold the weight off the nose wheel, drill the center bottom pair of engine mount bolt holes through the firewall.


    38.. [ ] Clean any shavings away, and debur the holes as best you can.
    39.. [ ] INSERT THE BOTTOM INBOARD BOLTS.
    40.. [ ] Torque all engine mount bolts to 200 in/lbs and install cotter pins.
    41.. [ ] Slowly lower the hoist and observe as weight is transferred to the landing gear.
  I know this is not a Velocity, but it makes sense..... Engine mounts and bolts move around a lot...


  Best... Steve

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