REFLECTOR: For the Collective, HID light -- FG New Shock Installation

Andy Millin amillin at sbcglobal.net
Wed Jul 16 22:14:48 CDT 2008


No problem Brian.  Thank You for everything you have done for us!

Andy

-----Original Message-----
From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On
Behalf Of Brian Michalk
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:46 PM
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: For the Collective,HID light -- FG New Shock
Installation


Andy,

That is an excellent summary on HID.  I have been grappling with HID for 
years, wanting to get into the technology, but afraid of the expense. 
With your help, I have found several sources of parts.

Thanks.

Andy Millin wrote:
> I have a couple things I thought I would share.
> 
>  
> 
> Item 1:  New nose gear shock
> 
> Item 2: HID landing light (for under $100)
> 
>  
> 
> **********************************************************************
> *************
> 
> New Gear Shock
> 
> **********************************************************************
> *************
> 
>  
> 
> I have completed installation.  I have posted pictures on my website.
> It looks like this is a winner.
> 
>  
> 
> A tip for installation:  When the nose gear wheel and fork are in the
> standard “trailing” position, the moment or force on the gear shock is 
> relatively small.  In this position, the contact point of the tire is 
> just slightly ahead of the canard bulkhead.
> 
>  
> 
> If the wheel and fork are turned 180 degrees (pointing straight 
> ahead),
> the moment and pressure on the shock is tremendous.
> 
>  
> 
> So 
 install the shim and shock, install the cross bolt and gear leg,
> install the nose gear fork and tire,  turn the tire until it points 
> straight ahead, gently lower the weight of the aircraft onto the 
> backward tire.
> 
>  
> 
> Carlos came over and helped me install.  I was in the plane.  I had 80
> lb. of weight on the co-pilot side.  Carlos was outside the aircraft 
> leaning on the Canard Bulkhead.  In this configuration, the nose gear 
> was spongy.  The shock was compressed a good ¼” beyond what we needed to 
> install the Captivator Plate.  We put the Captivator in place and bolted 
> it up.  At this point I was sure this was going way too easy.
> 
>  
> 
> After installation we turned the tire 180 into the trailing position.
> The gear leg was immediately firm.  With Carlos on the CBH, the weight 
> on the CP side and me in the plane, the leg was snug against the
Captivator.
> 
>  
> 
> If you are going to install, I highly recommend this method.
> 
>  
> 
> **********************************************************************
> *************
> 
> HID
> 
> **********************************************************************
> *************
> 
>  
> 
> I have been looking at converting my incandescent landing light to
> something more powerful. 
> 
>  
> 
> HID has two advantages:
> 
> It produces a great deal more light  (around 10x the photons)
> 
> It draws a great deal less electricity.  (approx 3 amps)
> 
>  
> 
> The downsides are:
> 
>  
> 
> It takes about 5 seconds from the time the switch is thrown until it
> reaches full brightness (a non-issue in my estimation for my purpose)
> 
> You have the extra weight of the ballast.  Extra weight is never a 
> good
> thing on an aircraft.  The ballast might weigh 4-5 ounces, and I’m 
> willing to accept it.
> 
> HID requires high voltage (15K-20K volts) to ignite.  During ignition
> (5-10) seconds, the high voltage can create radio noise
> 
>  
> 
> Other considerations:
> 
>  
> 
>                 I really want an installation that does not require
> modification of the current landing light.  I want it to “drop in”
> 
>                 Current Aviation HID systems that would “drop in” run 
> in
> the $300-$500 range.  For me, the benefits just aren’t worth $500.  I 
> want a photon cannon, but not that badly.
> 
>  
> 
> The Internet has enabled me to waste a great deal of time educating
> myself on this subject.  >.<
> 
>  
> 
> I’m going to share what I have learned so I can comfort myself that it
> was time well spent.  :)
> 
>  
> 
> Automotive HID systems are very durable and should perform well in our
> aircraft.  Life expectancy on the bulbs is around 3000 hours (lifetime 
> of the aircraft).  They handle shock and vibration well.
> 
>  
> 
> Our factory incandescent is a 100W  PAR-36.  Parabolic Aluminized
> Reflector, 36 eights of an inch in diameter.  :)
> 
>  
> 
> It is a focused beam with a dispersion somewhere in the neighborhood 
> of
> 10 degrees horizontal and 10 degrees vertical.  I don’t have the exact 
> numbers, but I’m sure I’m close.    Essentially it is a spot light, not 
> a flood light.
> 
>  
> 
> HID Bulbs/Systems come in a lot of flavors.  A quick search of the net
> will turn up cheap halogen to HID conversion kits.  You can get two 
> bulbs, two ballasts, and two wiring harnesses for around $110.  You will 
> see them listed as: H1/H3/H4/H7/H11/H13/9005/9006/9007  These are bulb 
> types.  For the most part, a ballast will drive any one of the types.
> 
>  
> 
> One of the bulbs might look like this:
> 
>  
> 
> Click to enlarge
> <http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/sports-imports_2002_9262620>
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> There are two flavors of conversion kits.  Cheap flavor mentioned 
> above
> and expensive flavor (no middle).  The expensive conversion kits do run 
> in the $300-$500 range.  I was ready to pull the trigger on a cheap kit, 
> but couldn’t bring myself to do it.  I didn’t know why there were two 
> prices ranges.  There had to be a difference, and the difference could 
> make all the difference.  :p
> 
>  
> 
> The cheap systems above (H1/H3/H4/H7/H11/H13/9005/9006/9007)  Can be
> produced cheaply because they build the igniter into the ballast.  Lower 
> parts count and all that.  Downside: it makes them EMI noisy.
> 
>  
> 
> The expensive systems used bulbs D1S/D1R/D2S/D2R/D3S/D3R/D4S/D4R.  
> These
> “D” system have moved the igniter to a small module that joins directly 
> with the bulb.  It looks like this:
> 
>  
> 
> http://img.alibaba.com/photo/11056277/Auto_HID_Xenon_OEM_Bulb.jpg
> 
>  
> 
> /D1S on left, D1R on right.  Notice the clip on the “R”  (it looks 
> like
> it could be easily removed)/
> 
>  
> 
> The name of the bulb has some significance:  Letter “D”, Number (1-4),
> followed by S or R.
> 
>  
> 
>                 “D” means Dual Pole.  Look closely at the bulb.  It 
> has
> two compartments.  It also has the rod coming from the base of the bulb 
> and attaching at the top.
> 
>                 1-4 refers to the gas used (Mercury, Xenon, etc.).
> Actually, if you want to talk tech, it is called a “Capsule”
> 
>                 S is Straight, or Standard, R is Reflective or
> Reflector.  “R” type Capsules will have a metal band around the base 
> that blocks light.  It is intended to keep high beams from overlapping 
> the low beam and causing glare.  I’m not sure, but the metal band on the 
> “R” might be a clip that can just be pulled off???
> 
>  
> 
> D series don’t have the high voltage line from the ballast to the 
> bulb.
> From what I have read, it is noise free 
  and 
 expensive 

> 
>  
> 
> If you look up  XeVision at http://www.xevision.com/  Look for the
> landing light conversion kit.  They use a D1S bulb and they want $499 
> for the 35W version.  For one light.
> 
>  
> 
> You might also see “digital ballast” advertised.  By using a computer 
> to
> control the ballast, it is possible to bring the light online a little 
> faster and shut it down in such a way as to extend the bulb life a bit.  
> For my purposes it wasn’t anything to go out of my way for.  The light 
> will come online in plenty of time no matter what, and the bulb is 
> probably going to last longer than I need it anyway.
> 
>  
> 
> Once the research on HID was done, I knew what the difference was and 
> I
> knew what I wanted.  It was also pretty easy to find.  If you look on 
> the eBay, you will find complete systems with two of everything (removed 
> from automotive) for under $200.  A pretty good deal.  You can probably 
> find someone to split the set with you.
> 
>  
> 
> These systems can be found on the Internet and in salvage yards.  If 
> the
> bulb type is not known, look to see if the igniter is attached to the 
> bulb.  If it is, you should be good-to-go.
> 
>  
> 
> I purchased my system on ebay.  Check out this store:
> http://myworld.ebay.com/allstarautosalvage
> 
>  
> 
> They sell salvaged headlight units.  Many have a broken tab or a 
> cracked
> enclosure.  I didn’t need the headlight, I wanted the guts.  He lists 
> the headlight by make, model and year.  It is important that it is 
> listed as “HID/Xenon components included”; they aren’t always.  I found 
> a Corvette headlight, 2001-2005 with the goodies; lower mounting tab was 
> broken.   A little more research and I confirmed the high beam for that 
> model/year was a D1S HID.
> 
>  
> 
> I bought the thing and had it for $39; including shipping.  Everything
> worked like a champ.  They were quality OSRAM components.  I stole it.
> 
>  
> 
> He currently has a Toyota Avalon headlight for sale:
> *http://tinyurl.com/59f2zy * It contains all the HID goodies (I’m pretty 
> sure this is a D1R).  D1R and D1S bulbs are interchangeable.
> 
>  
> 
> Here is a complete OSRAM system, same as mine, shown working, on the
> bay  http://tinyurl.com/5fsykd
> 
>  
> 
> The part that is not so easy to find is the PAR-36 reflector with the
> focal dimension we need.  I could not find a spot on XeVision’s site 
> where you could just purchase the PAR-36.  I was not deterred.  I 
> downloaded the Interwebs and searched it.  :)
> 
>  
> 
> http://www.duckworksav.com/upgrades.html
> 
>  
> 
> Duckworks sells light upgrade kits for RVs.  Their landing light is 
> the
> same PAR-36 we use.
> 
>  
> 
> Don Wentz is the owner.  Nice guy.  He will sell you just the PAR-36,
> modified for the D1S HID.  It was $53 delivered.
> 
>  
> 
> Don also has a very reasonable kit, with the D1S HID, ballast, cable 
> and
> reflector for $290 (if you want to go that way)
> 
>  
> 
>  It has a special machined fitting on the back to hold the igniter.  
> It
> is a very nice piece.  This is what my installation looks like.
> 
>  
> 
> Click to Enlarge 
> <http://www.kal-soft.com/velocity/images/pic1294l.jpg>
> 
>  
> 
> Retract guys will need to do some extra work.  I believe the nose gear
> comes very close to the landing light and it could interfere with the 
> igniter.  Another good reason to get fixed gear .    *O_o*
> 
>  
> 
> With a little looking and some patients, I have an HID photon cannon 
> for
> around $100.  The sucker is VERY bright.  I fired it up and it was like 
> Rudolph.  People were shielding their eyes and telling me to “turn that 
> thing down.”  In the plane, there is so much light that the nose glows; 
> at least until I get some paint on it.
> 
>  
> 
> I hope you found this entertaining, and possibly useful.
> 
>  
> 
> Andy
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> =====================================
> 
>  
> 
> Andy Millin
> 
> amillin at sbcglobal.net <mailto:amillin at sbcglobal.net>
> 
>  
> 
> 
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