REFLECTOR: priming "how to"?

Mon Jan 7 11:02:40 CST 2008

Al,

If I understand correctly, the 8001 and 8002 are the actual "primer bases",
while the corresponding 3001 and 3002 are the "converters" that get mixed
with the 8001 and 8002, respectively.  On the website I checked, they
recommended the "001" variants for the initial fiberglass priming, while
they called the "002" variants "high-built".  See

http://www.awlgrip.com/awlgrip_pages/product_systems_awlgrip.htm

I think they are both white; the grey ones have the number "1001".  Without
ever seeing these, I assume that they are to be mixed just like we mix the
structural adhesive ... ?
They also recomend a "cold cure" accelerator

*   M3066 COLD CURE Accelerator for 545 Epoxy Primer *
  (
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Awl_Grip_Topside_Paint-AWLGRIP_545_EPOXY_PRIMER.html
)

for curing temperatures below 75F (but above 50F).  Has anybody used this
accelerator?  Is it a good idea (it is certainly a lot colder than 75F in
Illinois these months)?

Grigore

On Jan 7, 2008 9:48 AM, Al Gietzen <ALVentures at cox.net> wrote:

>  Grigore;
>
>
>
> Going from memory here – I believe the 8001 and 2 are 'high build'
> (sometimes referred to as re-surfacers) whereas the 3001 and 2 are regular.
> And I think the 001 is white and the 002 is gray.
>
>
>
> I have also used the 'Interlux epoxy Primekote' with good results.  It is
> less expensive than the US paint 545, and is more readily available at the
> marine supply stores around here.  It is higher solids than the 545 so makes
> a good filler-primer.
>
>
>
> Al
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] *On
> Behalf Of *Grigore Rosu
> *Sent:* Monday, January 07, 2008 5:44 AM
> *To:* Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
> *Subject:* Re: REFLECTOR: priming "how to"?
>
>
>
> Thank you Ron and Al, based on your answers I did some investigation on
> the web.  I'm affraid I cannot buy the primer from our local shops here in
> the small Urbana/Champaign (mid Illinois), so I'll have to order it online.
> There appear to be some options outhere, just to confuse me :)
>
>
>
> Option 1
>
>
>
> *Awlgrip 545 Epoxy Primer White Base awlD8001GL*
>
> *   mixed 1:1 with*
>
> *Awlgrip Converter for 545 Epoxy Primer awlD3001GL*
>
>
>
> and
>
>
>
> Option 2
>
>
>
> *Awlgrip 545 Epoxy Primer White Base awlD8002GL*
>
> *   mixed 1:1 with*
>
> *Awlgrip Converter for 545 Epoxy Primer awlD3002GL*
>
>
> The difference between the two is "001" versus "002".
>
>
>
> In both cases, it is recommended to reduce the mixture up to 25% with
>
>
>
> *Awlgrip Std. Spraying Reducer for Epoxy Primers awlT0006GL.*
>
>
>
> I'm assuming we spray this primier.  Brushing it comes with a different
> reducer.
>
>
>
> Am I on the right track?  Is this what you are using, too?  Which one
> should I order, the "001" or the "002"?
>
> Also, these appear to be rather expensive ... Apparently they can all be
> bought in either quarters or gallons.  Can you estimate like how much of
> each I will need for my airplane (Velocity SEFG, fast built)?
>
>
>
> Many thanks again,
>
> Grigore
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jan 7, 2008 12:00 AM, Al Gietzen <ALVentures at cox.net> wrote:
>
> Can anybody help me suggesting some place where this process of priming,
> as we need it for Velocity, is explained?  Is it necessary to protect the
> work underneath, or it is being used just for aesthetical reasons during the
> building process?  Does it add any unnecessary weight?
>
>
>
> Thank you,
>
> Grigore
>
> Grigorie;
>
>
>
> Just adding a bit to what Ron has said; we use a primer coat for a number
> of reasons. It does provide protection of the surface by sealing, and
> contains a UV blocker; it acts as a 'filler' to help smooth the surface; and
> provides for good adherence of the top coat final finish.  The parts come
> from Velocity (at least mine did) with a coat of the US Paint 545 Awl-grip
> that Ron mentioned, so it made sense to use that again.  There are other
> expoxy primers that you can use.
>
>
>
> These primers are 'sandable', and you will need to sand to about a 400
> grit finish before putting on a top coat.  However; it is good to leave
> unsanded until you are ready for final paint because once you sand off the
> gloss surface it is more likely to absorb contaminants (like oil and finger
> prints) that are diffictult to clean up.  You are likely to find that for a
> first coat over fiberglass you may want to first use a 'high build' primer
> to fill pinholes and surface imperfections.  You can use either a good
> urethane or expoxy primer for this coat. Most of this will get sanded off
> before applying the final coat of expoxy primer.
>
>
>
> Follow mixing, thinning and application instructions from the manufacturer
> of the primer or finish coats that you use.
>
>
>
> Good luck,
>
>
>
> Al
>
>
>
>
>
>
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