REFLECTOR: Back Bleeding Brakes

[Ron Brown]

I have had good luck back bleeding my brakes using an pump oil can like MATCO sells - same one can be found at local Hardware stores.

Be sure to use DOT-5 - NAPA has it.

The only problem you will have is some air can get trapped in the space between the Matco wheel cylinders.  I removed mine from the gear legs and stood them straight up.  Pump until you get no more bubbles in the master cylinder.  Takes about 5 minutes per side.  

Ronnie


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: NMFlyer1 at aol.com 
  To: reflector at tvbf.org 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 1:13 AM
  Subject: REFLECTOR: Wheel alignment & Nose gear fork


  Just an update. 

  Took a while to get my gear aligned. Here's some of what I discovered on my fixed gear: 

  The alignment will change quite a bit once your wings, engine and such are on (my old plans didn't say to wait). 

  I added another 500 pounds and checked things out. It squatted a bit more, but the alignment didn't change by much. 

  I did things a little different from the plans:  I initially had put a 1/8" thick aluminum plate between the axle and the leg, the shape of the axle plate. I ended up turning this axle plate into my shim plate that adjusts kick down and toe in. I used one side of the plate to shim the kick down, and the other side to shim the toe in. I liked this approach for 2 reasons;  It allows just a tad more room for the brakes, and it also allows a removable/adjustable part. Just in case I have to reset the alignment again. 

  I also used hardware store grade 8 bolts. It took a few times to get things just right, and it took a bit of a toll on the bolts & nuts. Once I was happy with the results, I put in the AN bolts that came with the kit. 

  At the end, I needed to adjust the shim on one side by the thickness of a piece of paper, and by 2 pieces of paper on the other side. Sounds improbably to get that close, but with my shim plates, I just measured the correction I needed and lightly sanded my shim plates until they were perfect. Right now I have 15/16" of toe in on each side. Close enough for now, until the final assembly and weight and balance are right. Then I'll taxi test things. 

  After that was done I replaced my old (thin) nose gear fork with the thicker one. It came with a new axle and spacers, all you do is use the old tire/rim again. Once it was on I noticed that there was about 3/16" of play between the fork and axle shim tubes. I checked the old ones and they were longer. So I put the old shim tubes back on the new axle. That almost did it... there was still about .050 of slop in the system.  I made a small shim to take that out and now everything is snug, tight and free rolling. 

  I can't help but wonder if some of the shimmy problems people have are due to a tad of slop in between the gear fork and the axle shim tubes. It isn't much, but I would guess it can rattle some teeth... and it is very easy to check. 

  Now it is on to the wheel pants. I'm about 1/3 way done with fitting those. Then I can do the brakes. 

  I have an odd idea; has anyone tried bench bleeding the master cylinders. Then bleeding the calipers on the plane along with the brake line attached. I have talked to a few canard owners that say that it is a frustrating muther to bleed the lines. I figured if you bled the calipers and lines at the same time... then capped the lines and pushed them thru the conduit tubes I installed... it would make it a little easier to keep from getting trapped air in the lines. 

  Once that is done I can put on the prop... and make some wind :0 

  Kurt Winker
  173 FGE
  340HP Aluminum V6 Chevy 





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