REFLECTOR: Main Gear Actuator

Andrew Ellzey ajlz72756 at yahoo.com
Tue Apr 1 20:32:16 CDT 2008


You know the mind plays tricks on you in your old age, I know I tried the shim installation but I also tried a large o-ring to fill the C-ring groove and I can't remember which one worked better, or was the final solution that allowed me to install the seals without damage. 
 
Andy 



----- Original Message ----
From: Rene Dugas <dugasd at bellsouth.net>
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list <reflector at tvbf.org>
Sent: Tuesday, April 1, 2008 4:49:31 PM
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Main Gear Actuator


Andy,
I like the shim idea.  Wish I had thought of that.  I just held my tongue just right.  Didn’t work very well.  Third try no leak though.  I did the sand paper edge removal also.
Rene’
 
-----Original Message-----
From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On Behalf Of Andrew Ellzey
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 6:21 PM
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Main Gear Actuator
 
My new main gear cylinder leaked new from the factory. Yes you do have to remove the fittings to remove the ends. After removing the C-ring, I pushed the shaft end-stop and seal assay. towards the center of the cylinder an inch or so, to gain access to the C-ring groove. Save yourself some trouble and use some 320grit or finer sand paper, and remove the burs and keep sanding until you have a small radius on the leading and trailing edge of the C-ring grove. I also used a piece of plastic cut out of a milk jug like a piece of shim stock over the new outside o-ring seals, to protect the seals in the same manner that you would do to start a set of piston rings into a cylinder. This is tricky to do but the only way I could keep from damaging the new seals. Even with the C-ring radius, it can still damage the new seals when you try to put everything back together. The new seals will expand inside the groove and when you try to force them past the groove it
 usually damages your new seals. I damaged the first set of seals without using the shim stock. Your milk jug plastic shim stock has to be the exact diameter and not overlap itself inside the cylinder. Use the thinest plastic that you can find. You should verify that your plastic is thin enough by first leaving the seals off the shaft end-stop and checking the fit. Your results my varry this worked for me.
 
Andy Ellzey
 
----- Original Message ----
From: Rene Dugas <dugasd at bellsouth.net>
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list <reflector at tvbf.org>
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 4:44:15 PM
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Main Gear Actuator
One must remove the two fittings -one at each end to get the cylinder apart.  That is usually the mistake.
Rene'
-----Original Message-----
From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On Behalf Of MMurp16900 at aol.com
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 11:30 AM
To: reflector at tvbf.org
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Main Gear Actuator
Hi Jon
Try using high pressure air .
Be careful it may pop out with dangers force,
Mack
 
In a message dated 3/10/2008 11:09:03 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, s_korney at hotmail.com writes:
Check to see if there is a burr on the snap ring groove... That might be holding it in...

Best... Steve
From: jbachman at zianet.com
To: reflector at tvbf.org
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 09:50:13 -0600
Subject: REFLECTOR: Main Gear Actuator
I tried to disassemble my RG STD main gear actuator to replace the seals last night and ran into a dead end.  I removed the snap ring at the end where the actuator shaft exits the cylinder and could not extract the piston.  Is there something that Iʼm missing?
 
It is an ARO TEK actuator.
 
 
 
Jon
N956DR
 
 

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