REFLECTOR: Using the starter supply(+) wire as a charge wire

[Terry Miles]

Dear y'all,

 

It's Friday nite and happy hour after a good week of "visible" progress
compared to the many recent weeks of study and ponder.  I want to offer a
particular thanks to the Dave S, Dave P, to Scott and to Sid and anybody
else for taking the minute out for me.  Hell, it makes the electrons in the
heart move that much faster when I know I can turn to you guys and you'll be
there with some great advice.  Thank you very much, everyone, for the
suggestions of an ammeter between the ALT and starter and knowing that any V
tap is likely going to have it's unique V sense at whatever point it is
sampled.  

 

Sid, sorry for the poor choice of words.  The starter input lug is not
"dead" it's just no longer a functioning as a starter component and now
serving only as a mechanical post in a wire routing scheme.  I just don't
know the correct terminology for a lot of this stuff.  

Thanks again,

Terry

 

  _____  

From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On
Behalf Of David Scharfenberg
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 11:17 PM
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Using the starter supply(+) wire as a charge wire

 

That's how I wired my starter. I did put an ammeter shunt between the
alternator and the starter lug that terminates the #2 cable. The ammeter
functions as a load meter for the alternator rather than a battery ammeter.

Dave Scharfenberg



On Jan 25, 2007, at 8:02 PM, Terry Miles wrote:

Hi all,
 
I thought the sanding would never end, now I can't seem to get out of the
electrical design stage and actually start wiring this thing.  Here is a
topic I want to run by the group to see if anyone has any experience with
this. 
 
I have a Grand Rapids EFIS and engine monitor system.  The EFIS gives
digital voltage readout of the V that it is sensing in its own input power
line.  Additionally there are 3 available power inputs so I will have a 2

nd

and even a 3

rd

Voltage taps elsewhere (like a hot batt bus) if I want it at the expense of
using up my user defined auxiliary inputs.  I mention this because if I go
this route,  I will not install an ammeter.  I can't easily wire in an
ammeter now if I have my #2 starter supply wire as a charging wire too.

 
I talked w/ Skytec starters today.  On their web site they talk about an
alternative wiring scheme that eliminates the normal firewall starter
contactor which is required on certified span cans.  I can wire my starter
button directly to the coil/contactor that is bolted to the Skytec starter
instead doing the conventional route of contactor in the nose that then
ports juice to the Skytec contactor and its starter motor.
 
Other facts:  The control to alternator output is a manual on/off switch on
the overhead.  I will wire in a 60a current limiter between the B-lead and
the starter lug as described below. 
 
I will wire the B lead of the alternator over to the now dead Skytec input
lug and use it like a terminal to the #2 starter (+) wire in the utility
duct and will now carry juice back to master relay and from there to normal
bus distribution.  . 
 
This is not a new idea.  Nuckols mentions it in chapter 7 is his book on how
to home builts.  The Skytec tech support guy saw nothing wrong with it, as
long as I made sure to cut the jumper wire that now exists between that
input lug and a (+) jumper to their contactor coil. 
 
Am I missing anything?  Is anybody running this way? 
 
Thanks,
Terry
_______________________________________________
To change your email address, visit
http://www.tvbf.org/mailman/listinfo/reflector

Visit the gallery! www.tvbf.org/gallery
user:pw = tvbf:jamaicangoose
Check new archives: www.tvbf.org/pipermail
Check old archives: http://www.tvbf.org/archives/velocity/maillist.html

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://www.tvbf.org/mailman/private/reflector/attachments/20070126/92ed721e/attachment.htm