REFLECTOR: tow bar attachment
Scott Derrick
scott at tnstaafl.net
Sun Dec 9 09:56:07 CST 2007
Terry,
here is my solution, you can use a regular Cessna style tow bar on this
setup.
http://www.tnstaafl.net/canards/fork_attachment.jpg
Here is a powered tow bar I use, hooked up for towing
http://www.tnstaafl.net/canards/rightside.jpg
close up
http://www.tnstaafl.net/canards/tow1.jpg
I drilled two apposing holes about 3/4 inch deep and tapped for 1/4x20.
Those are Allan head screws put in with a dab of locktight.
Scott
Terry Miles wrote:
> Dear Al,
>
>
>
> OK, OK, I am buying! Yer right. I need to proof read before I hit
> “send.” Thanks, Al, that’s actually where I am headed next on the door
> seals. My McM-Carr sticky strip still has possibilities to explore when
> applied on one mating face or the other and/or in combo with the factory
> u-channel seal …I just thought I’d check in and see.
>
>
>
> Oh, and every time I look at toe bars (!) and the fab efforts needed, I
> figure pushing it by hand is the likely solution too! Dave S’s fork
> looks different than the XL fork. Dave, The XL fork only has tow
> (whoops two) flat faces. The side faces have a pretty deep curve on
> them. I’ve been looking at a C clamp arrangement that would clamp on to
> the front and back faces, or (idea #2) some kind of articulating hook to
> grab the axle sleeves on either side of the tire, but a tow bar has to
> both push and pull and those sleeves might get beat up.
>
>
>
> A QC guy with Lockheed Martin and a local RV7 builder/flyer thought that
> ¼ holes drilled right in middle of side braces (not the top fitting)
> would not compromise overall component strength. I would need to find
> out more on the fork material specs before I did that. His idea was to
> have the tow bar be the male of the fitting with steal rod going into
> the drilled holes. I’d be afraid of elongation and other stresses and
> didn’t like that idea.
>
>
>
> I am actually more engaged in the flying now, but I had some dead time
> yesterday afternoon waiting for glue to set up and waiting for the FedEx
> driver to get over here w/ my updated autopilot head, so I got to
> looking at it again. Truth is, I have a big chunk of ¼ steel plate
> maybe 5 inches wide by 5 feet long and I keep thinking that I just need
> to keep thinking.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Terry
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org]
> *On Behalf Of *Al Gietzen
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 08, 2007 9:07 PM
> *To:* 'Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list'
> *Subject:* Re: REFLECTOR: Of door seals and two bars
>
>
>
> Which two bars? Are you buying a round of Christmas cheer?
>
>
>
> I don’t know, I figure the best ‘tow bar’ is one hand in the gear door
> opening, and one in to the elevator cutout under the canard – then pull.
>
>
>
> On the door seal, perhaps some shim under the seal; or a companion flat
> strip on the door.
>
>
>
> Al
>
>
>
> *Subject:* REFLECTOR: Of door seals and two bars
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I know it must be somewhere in the archives. I’m not good at that.
> Dave Scharenberg, hey, don’t you have pics of your solution for a tow
> bar? …or anybody else?
>
>
>
> I can’t find what I saved the last time that topic came around.
>
>
>
> I have the XLRG, and I considering drilling ¼ holes in the fork, smack
> in the middle fore/aft and up/down. That would be my female aperture,
> and I would then make the tow bar with ¼ steel rod and some kind of
> articulation to go into the holes drilled in the side of the folks. I
> fear with time (push/pull/twist) that I would beat the crap out of my ¼
> inch hole and maybe elongate it or worse introduce stress cracks in the
> fork material..
>
>
>
> Could I please ask what others have done on this?
>
>
>
> New topic: Door seals, and sealing out the rain. What’s the magic
> there? I see that it is easy to have the u-form of the door seal spread
> open on you. Also it’s easy not to get a shoved all the way in the
> corner door corners. When I pour a glass of water along the top edge of
> the door, I now think the water is going up over the top of seal rather
> than leaking thru it which was my first guess. I think I have a gap
> between the top of my door outboard of the dee-tube and the sealed
> fuselage flange where the seal is.
>
>
>
> I am a willing listener!
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Terrys
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
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