REFLECTOR: tow bar attachment

Scott Derrick scott at tnstaafl.net
Sun Dec 9 09:56:07 CST 2007


Terry,

here is my solution, you can use a regular Cessna style tow bar on this 
setup.

http://www.tnstaafl.net/canards/fork_attachment.jpg

Here is a powered tow bar I use, hooked up for towing

http://www.tnstaafl.net/canards/rightside.jpg

close up

http://www.tnstaafl.net/canards/tow1.jpg

I drilled two apposing holes about 3/4 inch deep and tapped for 1/4x20. 
  Those are Allan head screws put in with a dab of locktight.

Scott


Terry Miles wrote:
> Dear Al,
> 
>  
> 
> OK, OK,  I am buying!  Yer right.  I need to proof read before I hit 
> “send.”  Thanks, Al, that’s actually where I am headed next on the door 
> seals.  My McM-Carr sticky strip still has possibilities to explore when 
> applied on one mating face or the other and/or in combo with the factory 
> u-channel seal  …I just thought I’d  check in and see. 
> 
>  
> 
> Oh, and every time I look at toe bars (!) and the fab efforts needed, I 
> figure pushing it by hand is the likely solution too!   Dave S’s fork 
> looks different than the XL fork.  Dave, The XL fork only has tow 
> (whoops two) flat faces.  The side faces have a pretty deep curve on 
> them.  I’ve been looking at a C clamp arrangement that would clamp on to 
> the front and back faces, or (idea #2) some kind of articulating hook to 
> grab the axle sleeves on either side of the tire, but a tow bar has to 
> both push and pull and those sleeves might get beat up. 
> 
>  
> 
> A QC guy with Lockheed Martin and a local RV7 builder/flyer thought that 
> ¼ holes drilled right in middle of side braces (not the top fitting) 
> would not compromise overall component strength.  I would need to find 
> out more on the fork material specs before I did that.  His idea was to 
> have the tow bar be the male of the fitting with steal rod going into 
> the drilled holes.  I’d be afraid of elongation and other stresses and 
> didn’t like that idea. 
> 
>  
> 
> I am actually more engaged in the flying now, but I had some dead time 
> yesterday afternoon waiting for glue to set up and waiting for the FedEx 
> driver to get over here w/ my updated autopilot head, so I got to 
> looking at it again.  Truth is, I have a big chunk of ¼ steel plate 
> maybe 5 inches wide by 5 feet long and I keep thinking that I just need 
> to keep thinking. 
> 
>  
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Terry
> 
>  
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> *From:* reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] 
> *On Behalf Of *Al Gietzen
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 08, 2007 9:07 PM
> *To:* 'Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list'
> *Subject:* Re: REFLECTOR: Of door seals and two bars
> 
>  
> 
> Which two bars? Are you buying a round of Christmas cheer?
> 
>  
> 
> I don’t know, I figure the best ‘tow bar’ is one hand in the gear door 
> opening, and one in to the elevator cutout under the canard – then pull.
> 
>  
> 
> On the door seal, perhaps some shim under the seal; or a companion flat 
> strip on the door.
> 
>  
> 
> Al
> 
>  
> 
> *Subject:* REFLECTOR: Of door seals and two bars
> 
>  
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I know it must be somewhere in the archives.  I’m not good at that.  
> Dave Scharenberg, hey, don’t you have pics of your solution for a tow 
> bar?    …or anybody else?
> 
>  
> 
> I can’t find what I saved the last time that topic came around. 
> 
>  
> 
> I have the XLRG, and I considering drilling ¼ holes in the fork, smack 
> in the middle fore/aft and up/down.  That would be my female aperture, 
> and I would then make the tow bar with ¼ steel rod and some kind of 
> articulation to go into the holes drilled in the side of the folks.  I 
> fear with time (push/pull/twist) that I would beat the crap out of my ¼ 
> inch hole and maybe elongate it or worse introduce stress cracks in the 
> fork material.. 
> 
>  
> 
> Could I please ask what others have done on this?
> 
>  
> 
> New topic:  Door seals, and sealing out the rain.  What’s the magic 
> there?  I see that it is easy to have the u-form of the door seal spread 
> open on you.  Also it’s easy not to get a shoved all the way in the 
> corner door corners.  When I pour a glass of water along the top edge of 
> the door,  I now think the water is going up over the top of seal rather 
> than leaking thru it which was my first guess.  I think I have a gap 
> between the top of my door outboard of the dee-tube and the sealed 
> fuselage flange where the seal is.   
> 
>  
> 
> I am a willing listener! 
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Terrys
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
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