REFLECTOR: barn door speed brake

Scott Baker sbakr at comcast.net
Sun Oct 8 13:40:02 CDT 2006


Plan on installing a speed-brake in all FG models, especially when operating with a fixed pitch propeller.
SB
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Richard J. Gentil 
  To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list 
  Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2006 2:23 PM
  Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: barn door speed brake


  David,

  I am building the SE RG. I went without since, my gear will be my speed brake. Are an RG or FG?

  Richard



  David Ullman wrote: 
I am building an Se and flew in one the other day that did not have a speed
brake.  The owner said the Duane Swing had told him no to bother.  The plane
landed fine.  Do those of you who have one use it?  It is worth the effort
to install?

Dr. David G. Ullman
Robust Decisions Inc
1655 NW Hillcrest Drive
Corvallis, Oregon, 97330 USA
Phone 541-758-5088
Direct Phone: 541-754-3609
FAX 866-898-1007
ullman at robustdecisions.com

-----Original Message-----
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Behalf Of reflector-request at tvbf.org
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2006 10:00 AM
To: reflector at tvbf.org
Subject: Reflector Digest, Vol 29, Issue 12

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Winglet trimming (Andrew Ellzey)
   2. Re:  painting fuselage (Dave Black)
   3. Re:  Winglet trimming (Jack Prock)
   4. Re:  Canard incidence (Al Gietzen)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 21:46:48 -0500
From: "Andrew Ellzey" <ajlz72756 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Winglet trimming
To: "Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list" <reflector at tvbf.org>
Message-ID: <007b01c6ea84$0123bda0$8302a8c0 at DASINC>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original

Steve,

You should call the factory to let them know that there is a problem with 
their winglet template and get an conformation to what I did for mine. I am 
also building my wings and winglets. I had the same issue as you are talking

about. Put your winglet back in the billet half that matches the inboard 
side of the winglet. Mark the lines on the billet half, the 28" mark will 
fall on the billet half and the 12" will fall on your winglet. Now mark the 
1" foam trim line on your winglet per the manual. This line will fall 
entirely on your winglet. Sand your billet half to match the contour of the 
trailing edge where the line comes off the foam of the winglet. Line you 
billet half with plastic to make a mold half for your lay-up. Do your 
inboard lay-up per the manual leaving enough cloth for the entire size per 
the manual. When you put your winglet in your billet half it will form your 
trailing edge for the correct 28". After it cures you will trim the foam 
back the 1" on your winglet per manual, and this line will fall on the foam.

The manual also doesn't tell you what to do with the top of the winglet, 
leave it squared off like it came out of the billet or round it off. I 
rounded mine off to a nice aerodynamic shape. There are now three of us on 
the Reflector that has found the same issue, there probably will be more.

Andy Ellzey


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Goldman" <steve at fatcatair.com>
To: <reflector at tvbf.org>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2006 6:58 PM
Subject: REFLECTOR: Winglet trimming



  Well this might be a factory question for monday but we'll see.

I got the winglets out of their billets today in hopes of starting on 
them.
I got stymied almost immediately. The manual calls for marking a spot 28" 
from
the leading edge at the bottom and 12" at the top and trim to the line 
connecting
those marks. Well I have more than 12" of foam at the top but I only have 
27.5"
at the bottom. So I'm not sure what to do. The manual does say the 
important
thing is for them to be as identical as you can do them and since both are
    
  27.5"
I could make them match up.

I took out the wing trimming template to see what the winglet foam looked 
like
next to it and they look short there too. (The curve on the inboard side 
looks
remarkably different too but the geometry when it lays on the wing could 
be
part of it.)

-- 
Steve Goldman
'77 Tiger N28531
Velocity XL5-RG (T-3465hrs 1%)
Pittsboro, NC (9NC8)
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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2006 23:54:21 -0400
From: Dave Black <dvblack at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: painting fuselage
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list <reflector at tvbf.org>
Message-ID: <4528766D.7060203 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Brian,

  I hired a professional auto painter to do my Velocity. He showed me many 
tricks with the sanding. And he stressed the importance of lots of 
airflow to prevent paint dust from settling back on the plane.
 
      Why is it important to keep the dust off the plane?
    
We're talking about during painting. The airborne paint 'dust' would 
fall onto the still wet paint surface and dull the finish. Nothing you 
couldn't sand out, but still a lot of work. Having lots of cross-flow 
ventilation prevents that.


Dave


------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 22:59:32 -0700
From: "Jack Prock" <jackprock at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Winglet trimming
To: "Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list" <reflector at tvbf.org>
Message-ID: <094601c6ea9e$ecd56c20$c801a8c0 at jaxwindows>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

Steve,

Andy Ellzey and I both had the same issue. I would think the factory would
update the manual, but they seem slow to
do that even when several people have the same problem over and over.

I asked the EXACT SAME question on the reflector on 7/30... if you go back,
you will see the chat. I will give you
the response that Andy sent me when I asked the question. His is a much
better explanation than I can do:


  I had the same issue as you are talking about. Put your winglet
back in the billet half that matches the inboard side of the winglet. Mark
      the lines on the billet half, the 28" mark
  will fall on the billet half and the 12" will fall on your winglet. Now
      mark the 1" foam trim line on your winglet
  per the manual. This line will fall entirely on your winglet. Sand your
      billet half to match the contour of the trailing
  edge where the line comes off the foam of the winglet. Line you billet
      half with plastic to make a mold half for your
  lay-up. Do your inboard lay-up per the manual leaving enough cloth for the
      entire size per the manual. When you put
  your winglet in your billet half it will form your trailing edge for the
      correct 28". After it cures you will trim the foam
  back the 1" on your winglet per manual, and this line will fall on the
      foam. The manual also doesn't tell you what
  to do with the top of the winglet, leave it squared off like it came out
      of the billet or round it off. I rounded mine
  off to a nice aerodynamic shape. If you have room to attach your wings to
      the spar when you are ready to attach
  your winglets, as the manual suggests, this is the best way to make sure
      your winglets and wings are completely
  matched. Make all of the cross check measurements the manual calls for. I
      used a water level at the wing tips to
  level both wings attached to the spar. I spent 2 full days getting
      everything just right, I'm hoping this will payoff in
  how my aircraft flies.
      
I followed this and my winglets came out great. Hope this helped.

Jack Prock


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Goldman" <steve at fatcatair.com>
To: <reflector at tvbf.org>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2006 4:58 PM
Subject: REFLECTOR: Winglet trimming


  Well this might be a factory question for monday but we'll see.

I got the winglets out of their billets today in hopes of starting on
    them.
  I got stymied almost immediately. The manual calls for marking a spot 28"
    from
  the leading edge at the bottom and 12" at the top and trim to the line
    connecting
  those marks. Well I have more than 12" of foam at the top but I only have
    27.5"
  at the bottom. So I'm not sure what to do. The manual does say the
    important
  thing is for them to be as identical as you can do them and since both are
    27.5"
  I could make them match up.

I took out the wing trimming template to see what the winglet foam looked
    like
  next to it and they look short there too. (The curve on the inboard side
    looks
  remarkably different too but the geometry when it lays on the wing could
    be
  part of it.)

-- 
Steve Goldman
'77 Tiger N28531
Velocity XL5-RG (T-3465hrs 1%)
Pittsboro, NC (9NC8)


    


------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 07:38:55 -0700
From: "Al Gietzen" <ALVentures at cox.net>
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Canard incidence
To: "'Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list'"
	<reflector at tvbf.org>
Message-ID: <000501c6eae7$7b940140$6400a8c0 at BigAl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Canard incidence

 

HI AL

The factory advised us to use two mixing sticks under the wingco canard gage
on our XL.

Mack  

Hi, Mack;

 

Can you tell me more specifically where/how you placed the sticks.  It will
give me a better idea of how much of a change may be necessary. Two sticks
is about 1/8".  And where did you place the gauge?  With the varying camber
from center to tip, there is only one place where the gauge fits the
coutour.  On mine it was about 2' in from the outboard end.

 

When I was installing the canard some years ago, I spoke with both Alan and
Mark Machado at Velocity, and neither suggested anything different about the
use of the incidence gauge.

 

Thanks,

 

Al

 

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