REFLECTOR: Elevator Trim Spring

Andrew Ellzey ajlz72756 at yahoo.com
Mon Jan 30 13:55:13 CST 2006


Just a thought for everyone, not that we need to reinvent the wheel. Why 
couldn't the angle of attack of the canard be made adjustable for trim, just 
like Mooney's tails are made to pivot for pitch trim. There isn't any 
additional drag induced at any trim settings with the Mooney's tail 
configuration.

Andy

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Derrick" <scott at tnstaafl.net>
To: "Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list" <reflector at tvbf.org>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Elevator Trim Spring


> John,
>
> I wasn't suggesting you use a shim block, you get to do whatever you want 
> to. though I got the idea from a factory A&P.
>
> I was asking Ron why he chose to move the actuator when adding a shim 
> block seems much simpler and accomplishes the same thing in my mind. 
> Maybe I'm missing some aspect that moving the actuator accomplishes?
>
> Scott
>
> John Dibble wrote:
>> Ronnie,
>>
>> I'm sorry, but I'm getting more confused.  My problem is that I don't 
>> have enough down
>> (elevator up) trim at cruise.  I can see how moving the actuator forward 
>> could help
>> this problem.  I don't understand why I need to cut the bracket.  Can't I 
>> simply move
>> it forward and make new holes in the canard?  I didn't build so maybe 
>> that is why I
>> don't understand.
>>
>> Scott D - I think your idea of the block is going to send me in the wrong 
>> direction.
>> Appreciate your help here.
>>
>> John
>>
>> Ron Brown wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Morning John,
>>>
>>> No, lets try again.
>>>
>>> The objective is to move the actuator forward a bit which provides more 
>>> up
>>> (elevator down) trim.  (That is if you have a problem with not enough 
>>> "up"
>>> trim when in cruise configuration, only one person in front seats.  This
>>> solution allowed me to not only cruise without pushing forward on the 
>>> stick,
>>> but also to trim for a 500 fpm descent with a slight reduction in 
>>> power).
>>>
>>> To move the actuator forward, you will need to cut the canard attach 
>>> bracket
>>> so that the hole is gone.  Now drill a new hole that is 1/4" to 3/8" 
>>> forward
>>> of where the old hole was.
>>>
>>> By the way, the bracket shown in the new on-line manual is different 
>>> from my
>>> 1999 kit.  The new bracket (Long Bracket VAB-02) shown on page 10-8 of 
>>> the
>>> online manuals is shorter than mine.  What ever bracket you have, the
>>> objective is to move the forward part of the actuator about 3/8" toward 
>>> the
>>> nose of the plane.
>>>
>>> Ronnie Brown
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: <aminetech at bluefrog.com>
>>> To: <reflector at tvbf.org>
>>> Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 10:03 PM
>>> Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Elevator Trim Spring
>>>
>>>
>>>> Ok.  Let's see if I got this.  You're talking about the bracket that
>>>> attached the actuator
>>>> to the canard?  And you shortened the bracket so you could move it aft?
>>>> And then
>>>> you drilled a new hole in to bracket and attached to the old aft hole 
>>>> in
>>>> the canard?
>>>> Did you drill a new forward hole in the canard for the other bolt?  How 
>>>> am
>>>> I doing?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>> Ron Brown wrote:
>>>>
>>>>  John,
>>>>
>>>>  I had the same problem with my 173.
>>>>
>>>>  I cut the trim actuator front mounting bracket off at the front of the
>>>> old
>>>>  bolt hole.
>>>>
>>>>  Then I drilled a new hole about 1/4" or 3/8" ahead of the old hole.
>>>> Problem
>>>>  fixed, and I still have plenty of up trim for take off.  Easy fix.
>>>>
>>>>  Ronnie
>>>>
>>>>  ----- Original Message -----
>>>>  From: "John Dibble" <aminetech at bluefrog.com>
>>>>  To: "Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list" <reflector at tvbf.org>
>>>>  Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 3:11 PM
>>>>  Subject: REFLECTOR: Elevator Trim Spring
>>>>
>>>>  > Flying solo, I run out of down trim at 155 IAS.  On the other hand I
>>>>  > have plenty of up trim for TOL.  Can I make a wedge shim where the
>>>>  > spring attaches to the elevator tube to shift the adjustment range 
>>>> to
>>>>  > more down and less up, or do I simply have to add more glass to the
>>>>  > spring to make it stiffer?
>>>>  >
>>>>  > John
>>>>  >
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>
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>>
>>
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