REFLECTOR: Elevator Trim Spring

Scott Derrick scott at tnstaafl.net
Mon Jan 30 13:02:57 CST 2006


John,

I wasn't suggesting you use a shim block, you get to do whatever you 
want to. though I got the idea from a factory A&P.

I was asking Ron why he chose to move the actuator when adding a shim 
block seems much simpler and accomplishes the same thing in my mind.  
Maybe I'm missing some aspect that moving the actuator accomplishes?

Scott

John Dibble wrote:
> Ronnie,
>
> I'm sorry, but I'm getting more confused.  My problem is that I don't have enough down
> (elevator up) trim at cruise.  I can see how moving the actuator forward could help
> this problem.  I don't understand why I need to cut the bracket.  Can't I simply move
> it forward and make new holes in the canard?  I didn't build so maybe that is why I
> don't understand.
>
> Scott D - I think your idea of the block is going to send me in the wrong direction.
> Appreciate your help here.
>
> John
>
> Ron Brown wrote:
>
>   
>> Morning John,
>>
>> No, lets try again.
>>
>> The objective is to move the actuator forward a bit which provides more up
>> (elevator down) trim.  (That is if you have a problem with not enough "up"
>> trim when in cruise configuration, only one person in front seats.  This
>> solution allowed me to not only cruise without pushing forward on the stick,
>> but also to trim for a 500 fpm descent with a slight reduction in power).
>>
>> To move the actuator forward, you will need to cut the canard attach bracket
>> so that the hole is gone.  Now drill a new hole that is 1/4" to 3/8" forward
>> of where the old hole was.
>>
>> By the way, the bracket shown in the new on-line manual is different from my
>> 1999 kit.  The new bracket (Long Bracket VAB-02) shown on page 10-8 of the
>> online manuals is shorter than mine.  What ever bracket you have, the
>> objective is to move the forward part of the actuator about 3/8" toward the
>> nose of the plane.
>>
>> Ronnie Brown
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <aminetech at bluefrog.com>
>> To: <reflector at tvbf.org>
>> Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 10:03 PM
>> Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Elevator Trim Spring
>>
>>     
>>> Ok.  Let's see if I got this.  You're talking about the bracket that
>>> attached the actuator
>>> to the canard?  And you shortened the bracket so you could move it aft?
>>> And then
>>> you drilled a new hole in to bracket and attached to the old aft hole in
>>> the canard?
>>> Did you drill a new forward hole in the canard for the other bolt?  How am
>>> I doing?
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> Ron Brown wrote:
>>>
>>>  John,
>>>
>>>  I had the same problem with my 173.
>>>
>>>  I cut the trim actuator front mounting bracket off at the front of the
>>> old
>>>  bolt hole.
>>>
>>>  Then I drilled a new hole about 1/4" or 3/8" ahead of the old hole.
>>> Problem
>>>  fixed, and I still have plenty of up trim for take off.  Easy fix.
>>>
>>>  Ronnie
>>>
>>>  ----- Original Message -----
>>>  From: "John Dibble" <aminetech at bluefrog.com>
>>>  To: "Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list" <reflector at tvbf.org>
>>>  Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 3:11 PM
>>>  Subject: REFLECTOR: Elevator Trim Spring
>>>
>>>  > Flying solo, I run out of down trim at 155 IAS.  On the other hand I
>>>  > have plenty of up trim for TOL.  Can I make a wedge shim where the
>>>  > spring attaches to the elevator tube to shift the adjustment range to
>>>  > more down and less up, or do I simply have to add more glass to the
>>>  > spring to make it stiffer?
>>>  >
>>>  > John
>>>  >
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>
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