REFLECTOR: Rudder deflection - again

[Pat Shea]

Hi Al,

To get more travel from the slide blocks, I removed
the cotter pins that prevent the blocks from coming
out of their sleeves. I had already fabricated rudder
pedal stops (the ones that attach to the inside of the
fuselage down by the rudder pedals) - which provide
this same function.   

However, you only get limited additional travel this
way since the blocks stop operating smoothly even
before they pull all the way out of the sleeves. You
also get diminishing returns from aft rudder pedal
travel due to the rudder cable approach angle. Your
mileage may vary...

I tried all these before re-drilling the horn which
was the most effective. In my opinion, 3 1/2" isn't
going to be enough travel - I started flying with
about that much and definitely needed more rudder
authority. The rudders provide a major portion of the
steering at low air speeds and you're really on them
in gusty crosswind conditions.

Also, I gave a bogus number on my last post - I'm sure
I have at least 4.5" of travel now and probably more
(depending on how hard you press on the brakes).

Pat

 
> Pat;
> 
>  
> 
> My rudders have an easy 4 ½ deflection (without
> chipping any paint) when you
> push them by hand.  At this stage, moving the
> connection point on the rudder
> horn is a much easier thing to do.  I don’t recall
> what the ‘arm’ is from
> the hinge line, but to get from 3” to 4” deflection
> would require about a
> 25% reduction in the arm length.  That may cause
> some binding on the cable,
> and puts a bit more strain on the cables; but I’ll
> take a look at that
> option. Thanks.
> 
>  
> 
> Maybe it’s possible to get more slide length of the
> brake rod block in that
> square tube on the pedals?
> 
>  
> 
> Al




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