REFLECTOR: Shimmy on landing...Some clarifications please THANX!

[davedent at comcast.net]

On the retract gear  I would check all the above.  On the fix gear I would still keep a watch on the pivot point.  With the trailing type you will have less tendency for shimmy but still check the tension on the washers.  The Long EZ and Cozy's don't seem to have this problem.  To the point that the nut is even a castle type.  Of course they use a fiberglass gear and most of the vibrations is lost in the gear itself and not transfered up into the airframe.  
Dave

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Jeffrey Clough <jclough at gci.net> 

> Does this apply to ALL velocitys or just the heavier XLs? 
> 
> Dave Dent wrote: 
> 
> >When you tighten the large nut under the fork make sure you are not just 
> >tightening the spacer in the bevel washers.What?? If you still have the thin 
> >washers get rid of them.Thin bellevilles? How can I tell? The new thicker 
> washers need no spacer. Also make 
> >sure you have no threads showing in your fork bushing. If you have too many 
> >threads on the end of your strut you will have threads transfered into the 
> >bushing. Now you no longer have a bushing to pivot on but a jack screw 
> >that only wants to go up and down not around the shaft. So doing only 
> >allowing the tire to try and twist inside the fork. So doing giving you a 
> >shake like you may never forget or till you change out your strut. 
> > 
> >Also make sure you have the heavier fork.How do I tell? If you have the light 
> weight fork 
> >and you have had major shimmy you more then likely have cracked it. Also 
> >check and see that the upper pivot bolt has not been bent. Believe me it 
> >may be a grade eight bolt, it can bend and it will. Also if you have a 
> >Matco wheel check to see if the 5/8" shaft through the wheel has not been 
> >bent. Also if you have not installed the upper new pivot bushing supports 
> >do this.How can I tell the difference between the old and the newer bushings? 
> > 
> >Since I had my first shimmy problems I started trouble shooting nose gear 
> >problems. What I have told you to check I made the changes. Including a 
> >new strut, with less threads...so if I have threads in the bushing area after 
> appropriate tightening of the large nut attaching the fork to the strut, I need 
> a new strut? Or a change in the washers above the fork? and changing the very 
> weak Matco wheel to a 
> >Cleveland type. Much stronger all the way around. I also removed all 
> >threads that extended below the fork nut after tightening to the 15lbs 
> >required. I also cut 1/8" from off the face of the nut.Ground off? The reason 
> for 
> >this was to move it further away of the top of the 6 ply tire. If this is 
> >not done you will shave the top off on the first two or three landings. 
> > 
> >Check all the above and if all done I would be checking the torque on the 
> >nut more often. I check the nose fork pivot before each flight. I hope 
> >this helps your and others. I have had no problems with my nose gear since 
> >I did all the above. 
> > 
> >----- Original Message ----- 
> >From: "RICHARD J VANDERSTEEN" 
> >To: "Velocity Aicraft Owners and Builder list" 
> >Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 8:49 PM 
> >Subject: REFLECTOR: Shimmy on landing 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >>Any advice on what to check after a shimmy event on 
> >>landing an XL-RG. 
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