REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch

Scott Derrick scott at tnstaafl.net
Mon Oct 10 15:39:16 CDT 2005


I still can't see any reason for a sump switch, unless it for the person 
that has faulty fuel level sensors in the mains and also refuses to 
calculate their fuel burn before and during the flight.

Scott

Chuck Jensen wrote:

> Ronnie,
>
> At least for the GRT EFIS installations (which allows input data into 
> a calibration table), these sensors with the brain-in-the-head are far 
> superior to the units that needed to be routed through GRT’s little 
> translation boxes which allegedly can be calibrated, though I found no 
> evidence of it.
>
> While I initially wasn’t keen on having clear plastic tubes in the 
> strake showing the actual fuel levels, I came to appreciate them big 
> time when my fuel indication was unreliable I got it resolved with the 
> Centroid sensors.
>
> Chuck
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] 
> *On Behalf Of *Ron Brown
> *Sent:* Monday, October 10, 2005 12:32 PM
> *To:* Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
> *Subject:* Re: REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch
>
> Chuck,
>
> The sensor head is similar to the Westach I have - sticks up about 
> 3/4" above the mounting base. I may just redo the mounting base - 
> i.e.. recess it about 3/4" to a 1" so I can raise the tank up off the 
> floor.
>
> Ronnie
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>
>     *From:* Chuck Jensen <mailto:cjensen at dts9000.com>
>
>     *To:* Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
>     <mailto:reflector at tvbf.org>
>
>     *Sent:* Monday, October 10, 2005 9:39 AM
>
>     *Subject:* RE: REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch
>
>     For continuous readout—any length, any depth, another solution is
>     the Centroid Skyprobe. They will manufacture to any length and the
>     electronic guts are in the head and output 0-5v. They plug right
>     into the Grand Rapids, and probably any 0-5v indicator. A little
>     pricey at $95/ea, but seem to be fool-proof, which is why they
>     worked for me. http://www.centroidproducts.com/tableofc.htm
>
>     Chuck
>
>     -----Original Message-----
>     *From:* reflector-bounces at tvbf.org
>     [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] *On Behalf Of *Alex Balic
>     *Sent:* Monday, October 10, 2005 12:09 AM
>     *To:* 'Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list'
>     *Subject:* RE: REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch
>
>     Gems sells a solid state unit that uses light dispersion to tell
>     if there is fuel at the sensor- you can get normally open or
>     normally closed types - no moving parts and it will screw in as a
>     direct replacement for the float type switches. In my former life
>     as a manufacturing engineer- we went through several plants on
>     equipment re-design replacing float types with the non- contact
>     types- the floats were leaking and sinking and causing all kinds
>     of problems as a result.
>
>     -----Original Message-----
>     *From:* reflector-bounces at tvbf.org
>     [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] *On Behalf Of *Jim Sower
>     *Sent:* Sunday, October 09, 2005 2:40 PM
>     *To:* Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
>     *Subject:* Re: REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch
>
>     If I had it to do over (which may very well develop) I would
>     dispense with the float switch (more of that 1920s technology) and
>     install one of the many solid state sensors available like those
>     used for the low fuel warning lights on our dash boards. If I
>     thought it important to know /how far into/ my sump fuel I am, I
>     might mount several of these sensors "on a stick" and have them
>     drive ladder lights on the panel.
>     Arguably cheaper than float switch, certainly safer and more
>     reliable ... Jim S.
>
>     wurzel at alumni.caltech.edu <mailto:wurzel at alumni.caltech.edu> wrote:
>
>So, I started noticing blue dye down the side of (and on the
>
>floor right underneath) the sump tank.  Turns out fuel is
>
>leaking either through or around the float switch.  D'oh,
>
>the one-day annual condition inspection morphs itself
>
>into a full-on project.
>
> 
>
>Unfortunately, my float switch isn't screwed into a hard point
>
>as seems to be the standard these days.  I'm not sure if
>
>Rick L rolled his own low fuel sensor, or if Velocity
>
>used to recommend just glassing the switch directly into
>
>the side of the tank, but in any event it is, in fact, just
>
>glassed right into the side and providing a lovely 100LL
>
>aroma to my cabin.
>
> 
>
>So, I'd like to convert this to a threaded installation.
>
> 
>
>1) Any ideas on the easiest way to do this?  My current
>
>thought is to remove the current switch while taking as
>
>little of the surrounding material off as possible.  Then,
>
>sand the outside of the sump tank so it's flat in the area
>
>where the switch was.  Next, coat the hard point and the tank
>
>with epoxy and press them together... finally put some glass
>
>over the outside of the hard point as well (making sure not to
>
>get any in the threads!)
>
> 
>
>2) What do I need to know about fuel and epoxy?  Is there a
>
>particular epoxy I need to use for this application?  Flox?
>
>Micro?  Do I have to put some kind of sealant on the inside
>
>after the epoxy has cured to prevent leaks or deterioration?
>
>I saw some comments in old posts on using a shop vac to draw a
>
>vacuum and suck the epoxy in around things, and that sounds
>
>like a good idea as long as I'm using the right epoxy and it
>
>doesn't dissolve as soon as the fuel hits it.  :-)
>
> 
>
>Thanks in advance for the help!
>
> 
>
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> 
>
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