REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch

[Alex Balic]

Do a google for "gems sensors" 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On
Behalf Of Ron Brown
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 3:42 PM
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch
 
Anybody got a source for these solid state fuel level sensors?
 
I have a Westach capacitance probe mounted in my RG header tank - it
works great.  But there is very little room for it.  I had to mount my
tank low so that the probe head misses the center section spar.  That
puts the drain valve too close to the bottom - well, actually it is
sticking out - just like the no-no Scott Baker pointed out a few weeks
ago.  I sure would sleep better if I could get my tank and drain valve
back up where they should be.
 
Ronnie Brown
N713MR - 173 Elite RG
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Jim <mailto:canarder at frontiernet.net>  Sower 
To: Velocity Aircraft <mailto:reflector at tvbf.org>  Owners and Builders
list 
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch
 
If I had it to do over (which may very well develop) I would dispense
with the float switch (more of that 1920s technology) and install one of
the many solid state sensors available like those used for the low fuel
warning lights on our dash boards.  If I thought it important to know
how far into my sump fuel I am, I might mount several of these sensors
"on a stick" and have them drive ladder lights on the panel.  
Arguably cheaper than float switch, certainly safer and more reliable
... Jim S.

wurzel at alumni.caltech.edu wrote: 
So, I started noticing blue dye down the side of (and on the
floor right underneath) the sump tank.  Turns out fuel is
leaking either through or around the float switch.  D'oh,
the one-day annual condition inspection morphs itself
into a full-on project.
 
Unfortunately, my float switch isn't screwed into a hard point
as seems to be the standard these days.  I'm not sure if
Rick L rolled his own low fuel sensor, or if Velocity
used to recommend just glassing the switch directly into
the side of the tank, but in any event it is, in fact, just
glassed right into the side and providing a lovely 100LL
aroma to my cabin.
 
So, I'd like to convert this to a threaded installation.
 
1) Any ideas on the easiest way to do this?  My current
thought is to remove the current switch while taking as
little of the surrounding material off as possible.  Then,
sand the outside of the sump tank so it's flat in the area
where the switch was.  Next, coat the hard point and the tank
with epoxy and press them together... finally put some glass
over the outside of the hard point as well (making sure not to
get any in the threads!)
 
2) What do I need to know about fuel and epoxy?  Is there a
particular epoxy I need to use for this application?  Flox?
Micro?  Do I have to put some kind of sealant on the inside
after the epoxy has cured to prevent leaks or deterioration?
I saw some comments in old posts on using a shop vac to draw a
vacuum and suck the epoxy in around things, and that sounds
like a good idea as long as I'm using the right epoxy and it
doesn't dissolve as soon as the fuel hits it.  :-)
 
Thanks in advance for the help!
 
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