REFLECTOR:
RE: Reflector Digest, Vol 17, Issue 16 - Float sump switch
Mark Riley
anriley at comcast.net
Sun Oct 9 16:50:21 CDT 2005
I used the same sort of switch. I simply went to Home Depot and found a
threaded brass coupler in the plumbing department that matched the threads
on the threaded portion of the sensor. It was female to female and about 1"
long for a dollar or two. I roughed up the outside and floxed it in to the
side of the tank an inch or two below the top. I then applied some Fuel Lube
brand sealer to the threads and screwed in the sensor float. It worked
great, which was a good thing because my float had a slow leak, eventually
sinking and requiring replacement.
It should be simple for you to use the slightly oversize hole necessary to
cut out the glassed in float to put in the brass fitting.
-----Original Message-----
From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On
Behalf Of reflector-request at tvbf.org
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 5:12 PM
To: reflector at tvbf.org
Subject: Reflector Digest, Vol 17, Issue 16
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Today's Topics:
1. Leaking sump float switch (wurzel at alumni.caltech.edu)
2. Re: Leaking sump float switch (Laurencw W. Coen)
3. Re: Leaking sump float switch (Jim Sower)
4. Re: Leaking sump float switch (Ron Brown)
5. RE: Leaking sump float switch (John Tvedte)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2005 10:01:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: wurzel at alumni.caltech.edu
Subject: REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch
To: "Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list" <reflector at tvbf.org>
Message-ID: <62378.70.179.0.189.1128877266.squirrel at 70.179.0.189>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
So, I started noticing blue dye down the side of (and on the
floor right underneath) the sump tank. Turns out fuel is
leaking either through or around the float switch. D'oh,
the one-day annual condition inspection morphs itself
into a full-on project.
Unfortunately, my float switch isn't screwed into a hard point
as seems to be the standard these days. I'm not sure if
Rick L rolled his own low fuel sensor, or if Velocity
used to recommend just glassing the switch directly into
the side of the tank, but in any event it is, in fact, just
glassed right into the side and providing a lovely 100LL
aroma to my cabin.
So, I'd like to convert this to a threaded installation.
1) Any ideas on the easiest way to do this? My current
thought is to remove the current switch while taking as
little of the surrounding material off as possible. Then,
sand the outside of the sump tank so it's flat in the area
where the switch was. Next, coat the hard point and the tank
with epoxy and press them together... finally put some glass
over the outside of the hard point as well (making sure not to
get any in the threads!)
2) What do I need to know about fuel and epoxy? Is there a
particular epoxy I need to use for this application? Flox?
Micro? Do I have to put some kind of sealant on the inside
after the epoxy has cured to prevent leaks or deterioration?
I saw some comments in old posts on using a shop vac to draw a
vacuum and suck the epoxy in around things, and that sounds
like a good idea as long as I'm using the right epoxy and it
doesn't dissolve as soon as the fuel hits it. :-)
Thanks in advance for the help!
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2005 13:02:37 -0500
From: "Laurencw W. Coen" <lwcoen at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch
To: "Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list" <reflector at tvbf.org>
Message-ID: <BAY105-DAV12012EB25023F39FF8EAE0D3860 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
I had the same problem and no hard point. As far as the fuel epoxy
compatibility, not to worry, your sump is glass cloth and epoxy. Seems to
work. Your plan should work just fine and I would recommend a sealant
between the switch and the hard point. Teflon tape or if you're paranoid
about Teflon getting loose and stopping your engine, permitex #2 will work.
A word of caution about screwing or unscrewing the switch with the sump
attached to the firewall. I have a retract and the sump is narrow. When
you rotate the switch to unscrew it, the float will drop down and lamb
against the side of the sump and break. I solved this problem by shimming
the float stop so it wouldn't drop so far but plenty far enough to function.
Larry Coen
N136LC SE/RG Franklin
----- Original Message -----
From: <wurzel at alumni.caltech.edu>
To: "Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list" <reflector at tvbf.org>
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 12:01 PM
Subject: REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch
> So, I started noticing blue dye down the side of (and on the
> floor right underneath) the sump tank. Turns out fuel is
> leaking either through or around the float switch. D'oh,
> the one-day annual condition inspection morphs itself
> into a full-on project.
>
> Unfortunately, my float switch isn't screwed into a hard point
> as seems to be the standard these days. I'm not sure if
> Rick L rolled his own low fuel sensor, or if Velocity
> used to recommend just glassing the switch directly into
> the side of the tank, but in any event it is, in fact, just
> glassed right into the side and providing a lovely 100LL
> aroma to my cabin.
>
> So, I'd like to convert this to a threaded installation.
>
> 1) Any ideas on the easiest way to do this? My current
> thought is to remove the current switch while taking as
> little of the surrounding material off as possible. Then,
> sand the outside of the sump tank so it's flat in the area
> where the switch was. Next, coat the hard point and the tank
> with epoxy and press them together... finally put some glass
> over the outside of the hard point as well (making sure not to
> get any in the threads!)
>
> 2) What do I need to know about fuel and epoxy? Is there a
> particular epoxy I need to use for this application? Flox?
> Micro? Do I have to put some kind of sealant on the inside
> after the epoxy has cured to prevent leaks or deterioration?
> I saw some comments in old posts on using a shop vac to draw a
> vacuum and suck the epoxy in around things, and that sounds
> like a good idea as long as I'm using the right epoxy and it
> doesn't dissolve as soon as the fuel hits it. :-)
>
> Thanks in advance for the help!
>
> _______________________________________________
> To change your email address, visit
> http://www.tvbf.org/mailman/listinfo/reflector
>
> Visit the gallery! www.tvbf.org/gallery
> user:pw = tvbf:jamaicangoose
> Check new archives: www.tvbf.org/pipermail
> Check old archives: http://www.tvbf.org/archives/velocity/maillist.html
>
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 14:40:03 -0500
From: Jim Sower <canarder at frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list <reflector at tvbf.org>
Message-ID: <43497213.6070206 at frontiernet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
If I had it to do over (which may very well develop) I would dispense
with the float switch (more of that 1920s technology) and install one of
the many solid state sensors available like those used for the low fuel
warning lights on our dash boards. If I thought it important to know
/how far into/ my sump fuel I am, I might mount several of these sensors
"on a stick" and have them drive ladder lights on the panel.
Arguably cheaper than float switch, certainly safer and more reliable
... Jim S.
wurzel at alumni.caltech.edu wrote:
>So, I started noticing blue dye down the side of (and on the
>floor right underneath) the sump tank. Turns out fuel is
>leaking either through or around the float switch. D'oh,
>the one-day annual condition inspection morphs itself
>into a full-on project.
>
>Unfortunately, my float switch isn't screwed into a hard point
>as seems to be the standard these days. I'm not sure if
>Rick L rolled his own low fuel sensor, or if Velocity
>used to recommend just glassing the switch directly into
>the side of the tank, but in any event it is, in fact, just
>glassed right into the side and providing a lovely 100LL
>aroma to my cabin.
>
>So, I'd like to convert this to a threaded installation.
>
>1) Any ideas on the easiest way to do this? My current
>thought is to remove the current switch while taking as
>little of the surrounding material off as possible. Then,
>sand the outside of the sump tank so it's flat in the area
>where the switch was. Next, coat the hard point and the tank
>with epoxy and press them together... finally put some glass
>over the outside of the hard point as well (making sure not to
>get any in the threads!)
>
>2) What do I need to know about fuel and epoxy? Is there a
>particular epoxy I need to use for this application? Flox?
>Micro? Do I have to put some kind of sealant on the inside
>after the epoxy has cured to prevent leaks or deterioration?
>I saw some comments in old posts on using a shop vac to draw a
>vacuum and suck the epoxy in around things, and that sounds
>like a good idea as long as I'm using the right epoxy and it
>doesn't dissolve as soon as the fuel hits it. :-)
>
>Thanks in advance for the help!
>
>_______________________________________________
>To change your email address, visit
http://www.tvbf.org/mailman/listinfo/reflector
>
>Visit the gallery! www.tvbf.org/gallery
>user:pw = tvbf:jamaicangoose
>Check new archives: www.tvbf.org/pipermail
>Check old archives: http://www.tvbf.org/archives/velocity/maillist.html
>
>
>
>
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2005 16:41:33 -0400
From: "Ron Brown" <romott at adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch
To: "Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list" <reflector at tvbf.org>
Message-ID: <010901c5cd11$d61adcf0$ff08a445 at romott>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Anybody got a source for these solid state fuel level sensors?
I have a Westach capacitance probe mounted in my RG header tank - it works
great. But there is very little room for it. I had to mount my tank low so
that the probe head misses the center section spar. That puts the drain
valve too close to the bottom - well, actually it is sticking out - just
like the no-no Scott Baker pointed out a few weeks ago. I sure would sleep
better if I could get my tank and drain valve back up where they should be.
Ronnie Brown
N713MR - 173 Elite RG
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Sower
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch
If I had it to do over (which may very well develop) I would dispense with
the float switch (more of that 1920s technology) and install one of the many
solid state sensors available like those used for the low fuel warning
lights on our dash boards. If I thought it important to know how far into
my sump fuel I am, I might mount several of these sensors "on a stick" and
have them drive ladder lights on the panel.
Arguably cheaper than float switch, certainly safer and more reliable ...
Jim S.
wurzel at alumni.caltech.edu wrote:
So, I started noticing blue dye down the side of (and on the
floor right underneath) the sump tank. Turns out fuel is
leaking either through or around the float switch. D'oh,
the one-day annual condition inspection morphs itself
into a full-on project.
Unfortunately, my float switch isn't screwed into a hard point
as seems to be the standard these days. I'm not sure if
Rick L rolled his own low fuel sensor, or if Velocity
used to recommend just glassing the switch directly into
the side of the tank, but in any event it is, in fact, just
glassed right into the side and providing a lovely 100LL
aroma to my cabin.
So, I'd like to convert this to a threaded installation.
1) Any ideas on the easiest way to do this? My current
thought is to remove the current switch while taking as
little of the surrounding material off as possible. Then,
sand the outside of the sump tank so it's flat in the area
where the switch was. Next, coat the hard point and the tank
with epoxy and press them together... finally put some glass
over the outside of the hard point as well (making sure not to
get any in the threads!)
2) What do I need to know about fuel and epoxy? Is there a
particular epoxy I need to use for this application? Flox?
Micro? Do I have to put some kind of sealant on the inside
after the epoxy has cured to prevent leaks or deterioration?
I saw some comments in old posts on using a shop vac to draw a
vacuum and suck the epoxy in around things, and that sounds
like a good idea as long as I'm using the right epoxy and it
doesn't dissolve as soon as the fuel hits it. :-)
Thanks in advance for the help!
_______________________________________________
To change your email address, visit
http://www.tvbf.org/mailman/listinfo/reflector
Visit the gallery! www.tvbf.org/gallery
user:pw = tvbf:jamaicangoose
Check new archives: www.tvbf.org/pipermail
Check old archives: http://www.tvbf.org/archives/velocity/maillist.html
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
_______________________________________________
To change your email address, visit
http://www.tvbf.org/mailman/listinfo/reflector
Visit the gallery! www.tvbf.org/gallery
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Check new archives: www.tvbf.org/pipermail
Check old archives: http://www.tvbf.org/archives/velocity/maillist.html
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------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2005 16:11:42 -0500
From: "John Tvedte" <JohnT at comp-sol.com>
Subject: RE: REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch
To: "Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list" <reflector at tvbf.org>
Message-ID:
<6AC8927C5EE1794E8A8D8598BF6D7F0474055B at exchange.comp-sol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Here is what I am using....made by Pillar Point Avionics.
http://www.ppavionics.com/LFL.htm
Lifted from their web site....
"Pillar Point Avionics has developed a unique Low Fuel Warning Sensor and
sensor system. Built into an AN912-1D bushing, the Low Fuel Warning (LFL)
sensor uses infrared light to "see" the fuel in your header tank, main fuel
line, or main tank. The technology in the LFL is the same as in your TV
remote control, packaged into a sensor that is the size of a pencil eraser!
PPAv's LFL sensor has NO moving parts, so there is nothing to break. The
LFL sensor system has a REAL built-in test (BIT) that allows the switch AND
the sensor to be checked."
John
-----Original Message-----
From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org on behalf of Ron Brown
Sent: Sun 10/9/2005 3:41 PM
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
Cc:
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch
Anybody got a source for these solid state fuel level sensors?
I have a Westach capacitance probe mounted in my RG header tank - it
works great. But there is very little room for it. I had to mount my tank
low so that the probe head misses the center section spar. That puts the
drain valve too close to the bottom - well, actually it is sticking out -
just like the no-no Scott Baker pointed out a few weeks ago. I sure would
sleep better if I could get my tank and drain valve back up where they
should be.
Ronnie Brown
N713MR - 173 Elite RG
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Sower <mailto:canarder at frontiernet.net>
To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
<mailto:reflector at tvbf.org>
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Leaking sump float switch
If I had it to do over (which may very well develop) I would
dispense with the float switch (more of that 1920s technology) and install
one of the many solid state sensors available like those used for the low
fuel warning lights on our dash boards. If I thought it important to know
how far into my sump fuel I am, I might mount several of these sensors "on a
stick" and have them drive ladder lights on the panel.
Arguably cheaper than float switch, certainly safer and more
reliable ... Jim S.
wurzel at alumni.caltech.edu wrote:
So, I started noticing blue dye down the side of
(and on the
floor right underneath) the sump tank. Turns out
fuel is
leaking either through or around the float switch.
D'oh,
the one-day annual condition inspection morphs
itself
into a full-on project.
Unfortunately, my float switch isn't screwed into a
hard point
as seems to be the standard these days. I'm not
sure if
Rick L rolled his own low fuel sensor, or if
Velocity
used to recommend just glassing the switch directly
into
the side of the tank, but in any event it is, in
fact, just
glassed right into the side and providing a lovely
100LL
aroma to my cabin.
So, I'd like to convert this to a threaded
installation.
1) Any ideas on the easiest way to do this? My
current
thought is to remove the current switch while taking
as
little of the surrounding material off as possible.
Then,
sand the outside of the sump tank so it's flat in
the area
where the switch was. Next, coat the hard point and
the tank
with epoxy and press them together... finally put
some glass
over the outside of the hard point as well (making
sure not to
get any in the threads!)
2) What do I need to know about fuel and epoxy? Is
there a
particular epoxy I need to use for this application?
Flox?
Micro? Do I have to put some kind of sealant on the
inside
after the epoxy has cured to prevent leaks or
deterioration?
I saw some comments in old posts on using a shop vac
to draw a
vacuum and suck the epoxy in around things, and that
sounds
like a good idea as long as I'm using the right
epoxy and it
doesn't dissolve as soon as the fuel hits it. :-)
Thanks in advance for the help!
_______________________________________________
To change your email address, visit
http://www.tvbf.org/mailman/listinfo/reflector
Visit the gallery! www.tvbf.org/gallery
user:pw = tvbf:jamaicangoose
Check new archives: www.tvbf.org/pipermail
Check old archives:
http://www.tvbf.org/archives/velocity/maillist.html
_____
_______________________________________________
To change your email address, visit
http://www.tvbf.org/mailman/listinfo/reflector
Visit the gallery! www.tvbf.org/gallery
user:pw = tvbf:jamaicangoose
Check new archives: www.tvbf.org/pipermail
Check old archives:
http://www.tvbf.org/archives/velocity/maillist.html
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