REFLECTOR: sanding the cores
Jim Sower
canarder at frontiernet.net
Sun Oct 2 23:05:37 CDT 2005
I saw that coming and got out my router and set the depth at about 1mm
and routed a 1/4" wide groove in the core down the micro line. If I
sanded it down to where the micro would interfere, I just routed that
area out again. In the end, I had no problem with sandpaper bouncing off
of micro, and I had few grooves something under 1mm deep to fill with
micro before the layup. No problem!
Worked great for me ... Jim S.
Alex Balic wrote:
> Speaking of the sanding- as everyone knows it is difficult to sand the
> cores, because the micro is about 50 times harder to sand than the
> foam, so you end up with foam ridges surrounded by low areas of foam
> no matter how careful (and I was really careful too, because I was
> expecting this problem )- you can try to not run the micro all of the
> way out to the surface of the foam while bonding, or as I did on my
> canard cores (I learned my lesson from the wings) I used some of the
> “Great stuff” canned polyurethane foam as adhesive to put the cores
> together- you need to rub them together a bit to de-aerate the foam -
> the stuff sticks great, and when it was done, it all sanded like a
> monolithic slab- worked great, and no micro to mix either. I have a
> very fine glue line, about a 16^th or so. Also did a test piece just
> to make sure, and the bond line is stronger than the blue foam.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* reflector-bounces at tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org]
> *On Behalf Of *Andy Millin
> *Sent:* Sunday, October 02, 2005 10:31 AM
> *To:* Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
> *Subject:* RE: REFLECTOR: Triax which side is up?
>
> Andy,
>
> You're probably already glassing... I had wish I could get just 20
> minutes with my cores before I glassed them. They are so easy to sand
> when it is just the foam. I could have save considerable time in the
> filling and sanding if I had done a little bit with a long (4' or
> longer) sanding block. I would recommend it if you haven't glassed
> yet. Just a 1/16" her and there can save a great deal of time and weight.
>
> FWIW,
>
> Andy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* reflector-bounces at tvbf.org
> [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org]*On Behalf Of *Andrew Ellzey
> *Sent:* Sunday, October 02, 2005 10:25 AM
> *To:* Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
> *Subject:* Re: REFLECTOR: Triax which side is up?
>
> That's my plans for today. I have my left wing core ready to glass
> all shimmed and true on a true and level 4' X16' table that I
> built. My plans are to lay plastic on top of my dry wing, lay out
> my triax and get it as perfect as I can before anything has been
> wet out. I am also am thinking I will pre cut it somewhat close to
> size when I am finished and carefully fold the triax length wise
> no more than maybe twice and then lay it on the edge of my table
> in front of my wing. When this is complete and I know that I have
> a full day to start the final glassing, I then know that I won't
> be rushed to straighten the squiggles when my wing is wet. See
> attached photo.
>
> Andy
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> *From:* Alex Balic <mailto:alex157 at pwhome.com>
>
> *To:* 'Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list'
> <mailto:reflector at tvbf.org>
>
> *Sent:* Sunday, October 02, 2005 2:31 AM
>
> *Subject:* RE: REFLECTOR: Triax which side is up?
>
> I’m thinking Alan didn’t wan to spend the time to pull them
> all out- it is very, very tedious, I did mine all dry- laid
> the glass on the cores and pulled with rubber gloves and a set
> of pliers- you can put a lot of tension on them, and I had
> little trouble pulling the slack out- just took a few hours to
> do it- I was told that my triax was in “usual” condition as
> far as the squiggles are concerned. As far as if they matter-
> yes they do- the triax is designed to be laid so the roving
> takes the tension loads of the structure. If the roving is not
> straight, then the resin, and the smaller biax fibers end up
> doing this job- as you can tell, the biax layer is much less
> substantial then the roving- in filament winding structures
> like pressure vessels, the roving is applied under quite a bit
> of tension to obtain the proper strength of the bottle, and
> the same would apply to our wings- even though the thickness
> of the glass on there is quite substantial (can’t comment on
> the hollow wings since I am unfamiliar with their specific
> construction)-
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* reflector-bounces at tvbf.org
> [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] *On Behalf Of *Andrew Ellzey
> *Sent:* Saturday, October 01, 2005 11:44 PM
> *To:* Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
> *Subject:* Re: REFLECTOR: Triax which side is up?
>
> Thanks, to everyone for all the help.
>
> Andy
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> *From:* Al Gietzen <mailto:ALVentures at cox.net>
>
> *To:* 'Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list'
> <mailto:reflector at tvbf.org>
>
> *Sent:* Saturday, October 01, 2005 6:27 PM
>
> *Subject:* RE: REFLECTOR: Triax which side is up?
>
> gently pull each strand of the triax to take out
> any slack and, just like Alex said below, it adds
> to the tension and taughtness and forgive me if
> I'm wrong he gents, but the strength of the entire
> wing as well
>
> It does seem that it make for a more rigid wing. I
> have to hope it doesn’t matter too much because
> anywhere I sanded through the primary and filler
> on my ‘Wingco’ wings I saw nothing but squiggles.
> Alan apparently didn’t think it was an issue.
>
> Al
>
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