REFLECTOR: Striping tape; painting

Al Gietzen ALVentures at cox.net
Sat Nov 12 10:38:55 CST 2005


Joe;

 Thank you. Very helpful.

 

I picked up a 1.5 mm fluid tip yesterday. Will try that today.  I’ve also
thought I may try my conventional gun and compare results.

 

I asked the PPG rep about more reducer, and he suggested up to 10% more.
That’s not going to make much difference.  I also have DT885, so I’ll give
that a try.  I may be trying for a finish beyond what is achievable for me
and my facilities.  I thought I could get by without buffing out later; but
I think you have the right idea with the finishing disks.  Even if I did a
perfect spraying job, I’m going to have some dust nibs in my
less-than-perfect environment.

 

And I am probably going to need more lights. Painting white over white
primer, or clear over anything, about the only clue to coverage and finish
is light reflection.

 

Thanks again,

 

Al

 

Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Striping tape; painting

 

Hi Al,

 

I have found that clear coat will not work well over plastics.  Adhesion is
usually good, but the clear does not wet out well on plastics.  PPG calls
for using plastic primer under topcoat and only recommends using the clear
over a topcoat.  If you want to use the scotchcal, I would suggest
application after the paint is finished or paint all lines.  Painting all
the lines gives a nice smooth finish.

 

I have been having better results with my conventional gun with a 1.8 fluid
tip.  My HVLP has a 1.5.  I have found more reducer (see below) has resulted
in a much smoother finish.  Due to EPA restrictions on VOC emissions, I
think the mfg tends to recommend less reducer than the ideal (IMO).  One
reason I like a base/clear system is the finishing options - 3M finishing
film disks can make my mediocre painting look great.  After painting and
drying (16 hrs)  I finish out the paint job in the following order:

3M finishing film disks (P1200 or P1500) in my DA to smooth any orange peel,
dust nibs and runs.          

*        3M Perfect It III extra cut rubbing compound with a wool bonnet.

*        3M Perfect It II Rubbing Compound wit a wool bonnet.

*        3M Swirl Mark Remover with a foam pad.

*        Apply 2 coats of your favorite wax.

*        This yields a very flat painted surface with a high enough gloss to
show every little wave under             the paint, but a reflection deep
enough to shave in.

I too am using DBC and a DCU clear.  I tend to like the DCU2002 better, it
is the same as the DCU2021, but it is high solids.  Generally I like to go 1
step slower on the reducer (if temp calls for 870 then I use 885.)  I have
also found much better results by increasing the reducer ratio.  Both
DCU2002 and 2021 call for 4:1:1 (clear/reducer/hardener.)  I am currently
using 4:2:1 and have found much better results (still have a small level of
orange peel, similar to factory new car finishes, but that is taken care of
with the finishing steps I have mentioned.)

 

I agree with a thin coat (60% to 70% coverage) for the topcoat followed by a
heavier subsequent coat(s).  I definitely agree with the rep on the
application of wet coats on the clear, there has to be enough material for
the clear to flow out and flatten, and too thin a thin coat will not.  I try
to regulate material flow to the size of the area I am painting and best
atomization,  I then regulate the coat weight by using several passes and
speed of gun movement.  Also use plenty of light.

 

Hope this helps.  If you decide to use the finishing film disks, let me know
and I can offer a few tricks I have learned.

 

Joe 

 

 

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Al Gietzen <mailto:ALVentures at cox.net>  

To: 'Velocity Aircraft <mailto:reflector at tvbf.org>  Owners and Builders
list' 

Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2005 6:22 PM

Subject: REFLECTOR: Striping tape; painting

 

Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Striping tape

 

Al,

I have not used Scotchcal, I paint my stripes in before clear coating.  If
you are looking for a tape to mask off painted trim/stripes, I would suggest
3M Fine Line Tape.  It has very good bond for masking painted lines, but
also has good release from freshly coated under color.  3M 233 is also the
best all around masking tape for automotive finish painting.

 

Joe;

 

Yes; I’ve been using the 3M Fine Line for masking around the edge of windows
for primer, and now for topcoat, as well as for trim striping.  I’m planning
on using ¼” Scotchcal as a border on a painted trim stripe. It will go on
where I pull off a ¼” Fine Line between colors. I expect to then clearcoat
over both, but I haven’t yet verified adherence of the clearcoat to the
Scotchcal.

I’ve completed all the prep, ready to spray some real paint.  I’m
transitioning from conventional sprayer to HVLP.  First tests of shooting
topcoat and clearcoat are not satisfactory, and I’m still trying to figure
out “why?”.  The paint is not “flattening” out well, and going back over and
adding more material results in orange peel or unevenness.  I’m going to
have to sand my test panel and do again.  

 

 

I’m using the DBC base and DCU2021 clear, and the DT870 reducer. What size
fluid tip did you use?  The Guys at Finishmaster are guessing that a 1 mm
tip is too small, which surprises me a bit since the viscosity of this stuff
is like a lacquer; 12-15 seconds on the #2 Zahn cup.  Next available size up
for my Apollo gun is 1.5 mm, and it’s $50 for a tip and needle; almost as
shocking as the price of the paint.

 

 

The PPG expert is suggesting larger tip and higher pressure; the Apollo
expert is suggesting lower pressure with the 1 mm tip.  Go figure.  I think
I need to try increasing the material flow, and getting a thicker first
pass.  I’m used to paints (like the epoxy primer) where you first get a thin
tack coat, and then come back with more.  The PPG rep says for this stuff
you want a full wet coat first pass.

 

I’m interested in any helpful hints.

 

Al (Waiting a couple of days for better weather)


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