REFLECTOR: Franklin seal leak
mike deeter
iguanamagic at yahoo.com
Wed Apr 20 15:35:51 CDT 2005
Thanks for the tip on the seal. I actually have a
seal but don't need to change right now. I have no
idea what Unipar sealing cement is.
--- John Dibble <aminetech at bluefrog.com> wrote:
> Actually, believe it or not, it isn't hard to get
> the seal over the flange. At first
> I thought only a miracle could make it happen. Use
> a whet stone to remove any burrs
> on the flange edges. Put a plastic bag over the
> flange and lubricate it generously
> with grease (I used engine oil). Remove the spring
> and soak the seal in hot water for
> several minutes. Grasp the seal with both middle
> fingers, start from the bottom of
> the flange, and stretch and slide it up and over the
> top. I should go in one smooth
> motion. I can scan the installation diagram if
> you're interested. The instructions
> call for Unipar sealing cement or equilivant.
> Anyone know where to get this or what
> the equivalents are?
>
> mike deeter wrote:
>
> > John,
> >
> > Notwithstanding Steve's comments (undoubtedly
> correct)
> > I did try prying the seal out of its seat and
> applying
> > the sealant. It's a real pain to try to get a new
> > seal over the prop flange. I can't figure out how
> > you'd do it. Also, you have a leak now; it
> probably
> > won't get worse if you remove the seal, clean it
> up
> > and apply sealant. You'll probably be no worse
> off.
> > I was able to pry the seal out and work w/ it w/
> no
> > visible damage.
> >
> > Alternatively, you could try my gasket fix. It
> wasn't
> > hard and I don't see a downside, even if it
> shouldn't
> > be necessary.
> >
> > I forgot to check on the sealant I used. I'll
> check
> > and get back to you.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > --- Scott Derrick <scott at tnstaafl.net> wrote:
> >
> > > If its like any other crank shaft seal I've seen
> its
> > > not possible and
> > > highly discouraged to reuse seal that has been
> > > removed.
> > >
> > > Your just asking for leak.
> > >
> > > Scott
> > >
> > > John Dibble wrote:
> > >
> > > >Mike, Steve,
> > > >Today I few 1/2 hour to get my prop balanced.
> The
> > > seal didn't leak a bit. The
> > > >procedure took to long and my oil got
> overheated,
> > > and it started leaking again. I'm
> > > >going to try the sealant. I'd prefer not to
> remove
> > > the seal and risk damaging it.
> > > >How do you remove the seal without damage? Do
> you
> > > think applying sealant to the back
> > > >side only will help?
> > > >
> > > >John
> > > >
> > > >Mike Deeter wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >>John:
> > > >>
> > > >>I did remove the seal to look at it and found
> that
> > > the sealant used was
> > > >>dried up. I cleaned the seal and casing
> surface.
> > > Then I gooped up
> > > >>(it's a standard industry technical term) the
> > > outer surface of the seal,
> > > >>plopped it back in, and smeared the outside of
> the
> > > seal in an attempt to
> > > >>make sure there was unbroken sealant all the
> way
> > > around. I also
> > > >>fabricated a gasket from gasket material I
> bought
> > > at Tractor Supply
> > > >>which closes off the same gap. It has no
> effect
> > > on the seal between the
> > > >>inner surface of the seal and the crankshaft.
> I
> > > can't remember what the
> > > >>sealant was but I'll check in a few hours when
> I'm
> > > at the hangar and get
> > > >>back to you. In any case, it was a common
> > > automotive form-a-gasket type
> > > >>sealant. It wasn't cement, though.
> > > >>
> > > >>Mike
> > > >>
> > > >>-----Original Message-----
> > > >>From: reflector-bounces at tvbf.org
> > > [mailto:reflector-bounces at tvbf.org] On
> > > >>Behalf Of John Dibble
> > > >>Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2005 11:27 AM
> > > >>To: Velocity Aircraft Owners and Builders list
> > > >>Subject: Re: REFLECTOR: Franklin seal leak
> > > >>
> > > >>I wondered about that. When I replaced the
> seal,
> > > the shop didn't have
> > > >>the special
> > > >>cement that the instructions specified, so I
> used
> > > common automotive
> > > >>cement. Since it
> > > >>lasted 28 hours, I figured the cement wasn't
> an
> > > issue and I hadn't
> > > >>checked because I
> > > >>have to remove the pickup for the Rose EI, but
> I
> > > guess I'll have to
> > > >>check. What type
> > > >>of cement did you use? Do I understand
> correctly
> > > that you didn't remove
> > > >>the seal,
> > > >>just put the cement on the back side?
> > > >>
> > > >>John
> > > >>
> > > >>mike deeter wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>>All:
> > > >>>
> > > >>>I had significant leakage out of my
> crankshaft
> > > seal
> > > >>>and found that it was leaking out around the
> > > outside
> > > >>>of the seal, i.e., between the engine casing
> and
> > > the
> > > >>>outer surface of the seal, NOT between the
> shaft
> > > and
> > > >>>the inner surface of the seal. I did two
> things:
> > > >>>fabricated a gasket to cover the
> above-mentioned
> > > area,
> > > >>>and gooped it w/ sealant there as well. That
> > > seemed
> > > >>>to fix the problem.
> > > >>>
> > > >>>I actually think the gasket was overkill; in
> the
> > > >>>directions for changing the seal, I think (my
> > > failing
> > > >>>memory at play here) it says to apply some
> > > sealant
> > > >>>where I mentioned above. Mine had evidence
> it
> > > came
> > > >>>that way but it was all dried up. I changed
> the
> > > seal
> > > >>>but, frankly, it didn't look any the worse
> for
> > > wear
> > > >>>and I probably just needed to add the
> sealant.
> > > >>>
> > > >>>Try the sealant first. It's easy and you can
> try
> > > the
> > > >>>gasket if that doesn't work.
> > > >>>
>
=== message truncated ===
*******************************************
Mike Deeter
N2011 Test Pilot
iguanamagic at yahoo.com
http://iguanamagic.siegesmund.org
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