REFLECTOR:Primer

[Joe]

Ronnie,
You can find Awlgrip's P-Sheet at the following link:
http://www.awlgrip.com  Product Data Sheet \ Awlgrip
Assumptions:
The 173 is approximately 500sqft
An HVLP gun is used with 75% efficiency (Normal efficiency is 65% to 80%)
2.5 mils is the dry film thickness
Coverage = 210 sqft / gal

Calculation:
Surface Area                   500 sqft
Coverage                      / (210 sqft/gal x 75%)
Gun Efficiency                x 75 %
Paint Required                3.17 gallons
*The paint required may be less if the coverage data is based on the RTS
(Ready To Spray) mix, the data sheet seems unclear.

My suggestion:
Break the painting into 4 groups.  Right Wing, Left Wing, Fuselage &
Cowling, Canard and small parts.  Paint one group at a time.  The recoat
window is 4 hours, meaning all 3+ gallons will need to be mixed and applied
in that 4 hour window, pretty aggressive for even a pro.  By sequentially
painting groups you can gauge how the coverage is running and buy additional
paint as required.  At $150 per gallon plus converter and reducer, you don't
want to buy too much.

Other Tips:
3M 233plus masking tape is the best I have ever used for spray painting.
Don't use plastic for masking off parts, use kraft paper.  Paint generally
does not stick to plastic and subsequent coats will blast off loose flakes
that will land on your newly painted surface.  The dry time to dust or tack
free is not listed, but with the long tape time (24hrs) the dust and tack
times are probably as high as 12 hours (watch for dust and bugs during this
period.)  Start as early in the day as possible so the finish might be tack
free by the time night starts to fall and bugs concentrate near light
sources (like the light being reflected off of white wings.)  Since this is
an aircraft subject to hitting things like bugs and strong air currents, I
would not use the AC for the full 14 day cure time period.  Prep with a good
grade of wax/silicone remover compatible with the paint system, some
solvents dont react well to polyesters and others don' t always flash off
well.  Check with paint manufacture for surface prep info, none is listed in
their P-sheet.  Try to creep up on that elusive gloss, remember there is a
fine line between orange peel and a run.  Check with the manufacture for
approved finishing techniques, can the paint be buffed, knowing this ahead
of time is helpful in deciding whether to risk a run with a little more
paint or better to leave a little orange peel alone and buff it out later.
And always remember the 3 most important parts of a paint job are surface
preparation, surface preparation, and surface preparation (in no particular
order.)

Hope this is helpful.
Joe

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
To: <reflector@tvbf.org>
Sent: Friday, May 21, 2004 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR:Primer


> And while we are talking about paint, I am planning to use Awlgrip as the
> final finish coat.
>
> How many gallons will I need?
>
> Ronnie Brown
> 173 Elite RG
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <gattenby@gbronline.com>
> To: <reflector@tvbf.org>
> Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2004 6:19 PM
> Subject: REFLECTOR:Primer
>
>
> | Ok since it's quite I'll start asking questions...
> | I'm in the sand / fill / sand / fill  stage of the wings /
> | canard.
> | I'm starting to think about primer.
> | I haven't started thinking about what kind of paint.
> | I have a small quantity of smooth prime.
> | If I put it on the plane do I limit my choices of paint?
> | What is the recommended primer?  The most common?
> |
> | Noel
> |
> |
> |
> |
> | > I guess everyone has gone flying
> | >
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