REFLECTOR:A (re)volting problem

John Dibble reflector@tvbf.org
Sat, 04 Oct 2003 19:30:08 -0400


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Chuck,
Shortening the wire will increase the heat output and current draw.
Also that might overheat the wire and burn it up.  Adding more wire
(more resistance) will reduce heat output and current draw.

John

Chuck Jensen wrote:

> Larry,Have you ever looked at yours or know how it
> assembles/disassembles.  I've probably done so much jacking around
> with mine that it may be broke now, but your insight is interesting
> and will be useful in sorting it all out. When I get inside (if ever),
> I'll survey it with the idea of shortening the heating element/wire to
> reduce the heat output and draw.  Note: Shortening in this application
> means de-lengthening.  It may have all the "shortening" it needs.  So,
> if you have even a clue how to get into that thing, please be nice and
> share. Chuck Jensen, in East Tennessee and not smart enough to get a
> picture past the website troll.-----Original Message-----
> From: reflector-admin@tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-admin@tvbf.org]On
> Behalf Of Laurence Coen
> Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 12:24 PM
> To: reflector@tvbf.org
> Subject: Re: REFLECTOR:A (re)volting problem
>
>
>      Chuck, I have the same unit, sans plating.  The reason that
>      the breaker pops is that the normal current is about 25
>      amps.  The normal internal resistance is about 0.5 ohms.
>      You need #10 wire and a 30 amp breaker to run that
>      sucker. Larry CoenSE/RG Franklin PS: It only takes about 5
>      seconds on the ground to get it too hot to touch.  I'm
>      thinking of a voltage converter that reduces 12 volts to 6
>      volts.
>
>           ----- Original Message -----
>           From: Chuck Jensen
>           To: 'reflector@tvbf.org'
>           Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 10:18 AM
>           Subject: RE: REFLECTOR:A (re)volting problem
>            From some Reflector postings and off-line
>           comments, it seemed highly unlikely that there
>           wouldn't be any markings on the "impossibly put
>           together pitot".  Apparently, in the plating
>           process, enough metal was displaced that the only
>           way to see the manufacturer's imprint was to
>           position a light just-so and hold your mouth just
>           right.  On the plane, it looked perfectly smooth
>           on both sides where the imprint was.  It took a
>           few attempts but I was able to glean the following
>           information:Kollsman Mfr No. 369D-011AN5816-1,
>           12-16vPatent Canada, 1940Patent No. 2.204.367 In
>           checking the web, this AN5816-1 number corresponds
>           to pitots used in some old warbirds, though it
>           wasn't possible to tell which ones.  More
>           currently, that number was used in Aerostars and
>           Piper Aztecs.  It's called a "sharkfin pitot" due
>           to the, well, sharkfin looking sail on the top of
>           the pitot.    Equally surprising, it truly is a
>           12v pitot, not 24v as I was told.  The heavy
>           current draw was from an internal short that
>           became apparent as I did more testing; apparently
>           incurred during the plating process.  Nonetheless,
>           Dave Black's, et al, discourse on epower and
>           ecurrent was interesting and informative.  I'll
>           post a couple photos when I get the USB working
>           again.  However, anyone that has any idea in how
>           to break into this thing would be most welcome to
>           pass along suggestions.  I really want to
>           repair/salvage it if I can. On a different note,
>           Jim now has me skeptical and fearful about flying
>           near a cloud in a plastic plane.  I'm ever so
>           thankful for the many times I must have already
>           cheated death's grip.  My personal minimums have
>           now gone up to 20,000 overcast with 10 mile
>           visibility and low humidity!! Chuck Jensen, in
>           East Tennessee where gaming Jim is the sport of
>           the day.
>

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Chuck,
<br>Shortening the wire will increase the heat output and current draw.&nbsp;
Also that might overheat the wire and burn it up.&nbsp; Adding more wire
(more resistance) will reduce heat output and current draw.
<p>John
<p>Chuck Jensen wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style>
<span class=000260221-04102003><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>Larry,</font></font></font></span><span class=000260221-04102003></span><span class=000260221-04102003><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>Have
you ever looked at yours or know how it assembles/disassembles.&nbsp; I've
probably done so much jacking around with mine that it may be broke now,
but your insight is interesting and will be useful in sorting it all out.&nbsp;</font></font></font></span><span class=000260221-04102003></span><span class=000260221-04102003><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>When
I get inside (if ever), I'll survey it with the idea of shortening the
heating element/wire to reduce the heat output and draw.&nbsp; Note: Shortening
in this application means de-lengthening.&nbsp; It may have all the "shortening"
it needs.&nbsp; S</span><span class=000260221-04102003>o, if you have even
a clue how to get into that thing, please be nice and share.</font></font></font></span>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Chuck
Jensen, in East Tennessee and not smart enough to get a picture past the
website troll.</font></font><font face="Tahoma"><font size=-1>-----Original
Message-----</font></font>
<br><font face="Tahoma"><font size=-1><b>From:</b> reflector-admin@tvbf.org
[<A HREF="mailto:reflector-admin@tvbf.org">mailto:reflector-admin@tvbf.org</A>]<b>On Behalf Of </b>Laurence Coen</font></font>
<br><font face="Tahoma"><font size=-1><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, October 04,
2003 12:24 PM</font></font>
<br><font face="Tahoma"><font size=-1><b>To:</b> reflector@tvbf.org</font></font>
<br><font face="Tahoma"><font size=-1><b>Subject:</b> Re: REFLECTOR:A (re)volting
problem</font></font>
<br>&nbsp;
<blockquote dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Chuck,</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I
have the same unit, sans plating.&nbsp; The reason that the breaker pops
is that the normal current is about 25 amps.&nbsp; The normal internal
resistance is about 0.5 ohms.&nbsp; You need #10 wire and a 30 amp breaker
to run that sucker.</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Larry
Coen</font></font><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>SE/RG Franklin</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>PS:
It only takes about 5 seconds on the ground to get it too hot to touch.&nbsp;
I'm thinking of a voltage converter that reduces 12 volts to 6 volts.</font></font>
<blockquote dir=ltr 
  style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----</div>

<div 
    style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><b>From:</b>
<a href="mailto:cjensen@dts9000.com" title="cjensen@dts9000.com">Chuck
Jensen</a></div>

<div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:'reflector@tvbf.org'" title="reflector@tvbf.org">'reflector@tvbf.org'</a></div>

<div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, October 04, 2003 10:18
AM</div>

<div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>Subject:</b> RE: REFLECTOR:A (re)volting
problem</div>
&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>From some Reflector postings and
off-line comments, it seemed highly unlikely that there wouldn't be any
markings on the "impossibly put together pitot".&nbsp; Apparently, in the
plating process, enough metal was displaced that the only way to see the
manufacturer's imprint was to position a light just-so and hold your mouth
just right.&nbsp; On the plane, it looked perfectly smooth on both sides
where the imprint was.&nbsp; It took a few attempts but I was able to glean
the following information:</font></font><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Kollsman
Mfr No. 369D-011</font></font><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>AN5816-1,
12-16v</font></font><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Patent Canada, 1940</font></font><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Patent
No. 2.204.367</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>In checking
the web, this AN5816-1 number corresponds to pitots used in some old warbirds,
though it wasn't possible to tell which ones.&nbsp; More currently, that
number was used in Aerostars and Piper Aztecs.&nbsp; It's called a "sharkfin
pitot" due to the, well, sharkfin looking sail on the top of the pitot.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Equally surprising, it truly is a 12v pitot, not 24v as I was told.&nbsp;
The heavy current draw was from an internal short that became apparent
as I did more testing; apparently incurred during the plating process.&nbsp;
Nonetheless, Dave Black's, et al, discourse on epower and ecurrent was
interesting and informative.&nbsp; I'll post a couple photos when I get
the USB working again.&nbsp; However, anyone that has any idea in how to
break into this thing would be most welcome to pass along suggestions.&nbsp;
I really want to repair/salvage it if I can.</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>On
a different note, Jim now has me skeptical and fearful about flying near
a cloud in a plastic plane.&nbsp; I'm ever so thankful for the many times
I must have already cheated death's grip.&nbsp; My personal minimums have
now gone up to 20,000 overcast with 10 mile visibility and low humidity!!</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Chuck
Jensen, in East Tennessee where gaming Jim is the sport of the day.</font></font></blockquote>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>

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