REFLECTOR:A (re)volting problem

Chuck Jensen reflector@tvbf.org
Sat, 4 Oct 2003 17:47:47 -0400


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Larry,
 
Have you ever looked at yours or know how it assembles/disassembles.  I've
probably done so much jacking around with mine that it may be broke now, but
your insight is interesting and will be useful in sorting it all out.  
 
When I get inside (if ever), I'll survey it with the idea of shortening the
heating element/wire to reduce the heat output and draw.  Note: Shortening
in this application means de-lengthening.  It may have all the "shortening"
it needs.  So, if you have even a clue how to get into that thing, please be
nice and share.
 
Chuck Jensen, in East Tennessee and not smart enough to get a picture past
the website troll.

-----Original Message-----
From: reflector-admin@tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-admin@tvbf.org]On Behalf Of
Laurence Coen
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 12:24 PM
To: reflector@tvbf.org
Subject: Re: REFLECTOR:A (re)volting problem



Chuck,
 
I have the same unit, sans plating.  The reason that the breaker pops is
that the normal current is about 25 amps.  The normal internal resistance is
about 0.5 ohms.  You need #10 wire and a 30 amp breaker to run that sucker.
 
Larry Coen
SE/RG Franklin
 
PS: It only takes about 5 seconds on the ground to get it too hot to touch.
I'm thinking of a voltage converter that reduces 12 volts to 6 volts.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Chuck  <mailto:cjensen@dts9000.com> Jensen 
To: 'reflector@tvbf.org' <mailto:'reflector@tvbf.org'>  
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 10:18 AM
Subject: RE: REFLECTOR:A (re)volting problem


>From some Reflector postings and off-line comments, it seemed highly
unlikely that there wouldn't be any markings on the "impossibly put together
pitot".  Apparently, in the plating process, enough metal was displaced that
the only way to see the manufacturer's imprint was to position a light
just-so and hold your mouth just right.  On the plane, it looked perfectly
smooth on both sides where the imprint was.  It took a few attempts but I
was able to glean the following information:

Kollsman Mfr No. 369D-011
AN5816-1, 12-16v
Patent Canada, 1940
Patent No. 2.204.367
 
In checking the web, this AN5816-1 number corresponds to pitots used in some
old warbirds, though it wasn't possible to tell which ones.  More currently,
that number was used in Aerostars and Piper Aztecs.  It's called a "sharkfin
pitot" due to the, well, sharkfin looking sail on the top of the pitot.
Equally surprising, it truly is a 12v pitot, not 24v as I was told.  The
heavy current draw was from an internal short that became apparent as I did
more testing; apparently incurred during the plating process.  Nonetheless,
Dave Black's, et al, discourse on epower and ecurrent was interesting and
informative.  I'll post a couple photos when I get the USB working again.
However, anyone that has any idea in how to break into this thing would be
most welcome to pass along suggestions.  I really want to repair/salvage it
if I can.
 
On a different note, Jim now has me skeptical and fearful about flying near
a cloud in a plastic plane.  I'm ever so thankful for the many times I must
have already cheated death's grip.  My personal minimums have now gone up to
20,000 overcast with 10 mile visibility and low humidity!! 
 
Chuck Jensen, in East Tennessee where gaming Jim is the sport of the day.



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<DIV><SPAN class=000260221-04102003><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff 
size=2>Larry,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=000260221-04102003><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff 
size=2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=000260221-04102003><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Have 
you ever looked at yours or know how it assembles/disassembles.&nbsp; I've 
probably done so much jacking around with mine that it may be broke now, but 
your insight is interesting and will be useful in sorting it all out.&nbsp; 
</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=000260221-04102003><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff 
size=2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=000260221-04102003><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>When I 
get inside (if ever), I'll survey it with the idea of shortening the heating 
element/wire to reduce the heat output and draw.&nbsp; Note:&nbsp;Shortening in 
this application means de-lengthening.&nbsp; It may have all the "shortening" it 
needs.&nbsp; S</FONT></SPAN><SPAN class=000260221-04102003><FONT face=Arial 
color=#0000ff size=2>o, if you have even a clue how to get into that thing, 
please be nice and share.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Ch</FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2>uck</FONT><FONT 
face=Arial size=2> Jensen, in East Tennessee and not smart enough to get a 
picture past the website troll.</FONT><BR><FONT face=Tahoma size=2></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Tahoma size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> 
reflector-admin@tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-admin@tvbf.org]<B>On Behalf Of 
</B>Laurence Coen<BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, October 04, 2003 12:24 
PM<BR><B>To:</B> reflector@tvbf.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: REFLECTOR:A 
(re)volting problem<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Chuck,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have the same unit, sans plating.&nbsp; The 
  reason that the breaker pops is that the normal current is about 25 
  amps.&nbsp; The normal internal resistance is about 0.5 ohms.&nbsp; You need 
  #10 wire and a 30 amp breaker to run that sucker.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Larry Coen</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>SE/RG Franklin</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>PS: It only takes about 5 seconds on the ground 
  to get it too hot to touch.&nbsp; I'm thinking of a voltage converter that 
  reduces 12 volts to 6 volts.</FONT></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr 
  style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
    <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
    <DIV 
    style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> 
    <A title=cjensen@dts9000.com href="mailto:cjensen@dts9000.com">Chuck 
    Jensen</A> </DIV>
    <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=reflector@tvbf.org 
    href="mailto:'reflector@tvbf.org'">'reflector@tvbf.org'</A> </DIV>
    <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, October 04, 2003 10:18 
    AM</DIV>
    <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: REFLECTOR:A (re)volting 
    problem</DIV>
    <DIV><BR></DIV>
    <P><FONT face=Arial size=2>From some Reflector postings and off-line 
    comments, it seemed highly unlikely that there wouldn't be any markings on 
    the "impossibly put together pitot".&nbsp; Apparently, in the plating 
    process, enough metal was displaced that the only way to see the 
    manufacturer's imprint was to position&nbsp;a light just-so and hold your 
    mouth just right.&nbsp; On the plane, it looked perfectly smooth on both 
    sides where the imprint was. &nbsp;It took a few attempts but I was able to 
    glean the following information:</FONT></P>
    <DIV><FONT size=2><FONT face=Arial>Kollsman Mfr No. 
    369D-011</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=2><FONT face=Arial>AN5816-1, 
12-16v</FONT></FONT></DIV></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=2><FONT face=Arial>Patent Canada, 1940</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Patent No. 2.204.367</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=2><FONT face=Arial></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=2><FONT face=Arial>In checking the web, this AN5816-1 number 
    corresponds to pitots used in some old warbirds, though it wasn't possible 
    to tell which ones.&nbsp; More currently, that number was used in Aerostars 
    and Piper Aztecs.&nbsp; It's called a "sharkfin pitot" due to the, well, 
    sharkfin looking sail on the top of the pitot.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
    </FONT></FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2>Equally surprising, it truly is&nbsp;a 
    12v pitot, not 24v as I was told.&nbsp; The heavy current draw was from an 
    internal short that became apparent as I did more testing; apparently 
    incurred during the plating process.&nbsp; Nonetheless, Dave 
    Black's,&nbsp;et al, discourse on epower and ecurrent was interesting and 
    informative.&nbsp; I'll post a couple photos when I get the USB working 
    again.&nbsp; However, anyone that has any idea in how to break into this 
    thing would be most welcome to pass along suggestions.&nbsp; I really want 
    to repair/salvage it if I can.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>On a different note,&nbsp;Jim now has me 
    skeptical and fearful&nbsp;about flying near a cloud in a plastic 
    plane.&nbsp; I'm ever so thankful for the many&nbsp;times I must have 
    already cheated death's grip.&nbsp; My personal minimums have now gone up to 
    20,000 overcast with 10 mile visibility and low humidity!! </FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Chuck Jensen, in East Tennessee where gaming 
    Jim is the sport of the 
day.<BR></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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