REFLECTOR:Stormscope antennae

S Baker reflector@tvbf.org
Tue, 10 Jun 2003 18:05:15 -0400


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MessageThe "full length" antenna lead option was not discussed for the =
same reason that "full length" strobe light power supply wires are not =
discussed.  Removing the wings with full length wires means =
disconnecting the wires at the cabin side source, in this case the =
remote mounted WX500 receiver/processor, possibly disconnecting the =
individual wires from the wiring plug if the plug can't be pulled =
through the wing, and fishing the wire through the wing - then doing the =
whole procedure in reverse to re-mount the wings.  Depending on where =
things are mounted, and how the antenna wires are secured - this can be =
a royal pain in the arss - hence the suggestion for a splice (which is =
how most builders normally address the VOR, and communication antennas, =
and also the wing tip lights).
Best regards,
Scott B.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Paul Calhoun=20
  To: reflector@tvbf.org=20
  Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 2:10 PM
  Subject: RE: REFLECTOR:Stormscope antennae


  Thanks for the feedback, Wayne. Enlarging the chase is so easy - as =
you say 15 minutes work - that I can't imagine why anyone would want to =
go to the time and expense of splicing the cable and why the other =
option wasn't given in the VV article. I found that sharpening the tube =
without filing in teeth was sufficient for a smooth cutting operation.=20

  Paul
    -----Original Message-----
    From: reflector-admin@tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-admin@tvbf.org] On =
Behalf Of Wayne Lanza
    Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 5:04 PM
    To: reflector@tvbf.org
    Subject: Re: REFLECTOR:Stormscope antennae


    Hi Paul,
    Regarding the storm scope antennas, I have installed all (7) of the =
WX500 systems at the factory.
    The connector at the wing/strake junction is accomplished with a =
metal connector (Amp) and is a
    bit pricey due to the cost of the connector and the labor involved. =
In addition to preparing the SS
    cable, you will need to add a braided metal shield over the strobe =
wires in the same wing.

    After discussions with BF Goodrich and several installations here =
are the proven procedures for
    the WX500. First of all the thing in the wing is NOT an antenna, it =
is technically a DVDT probe that
    senses energy spikes. The cable is shielded but is not an RF =
assembly, the wires are for a simple
    data link (about 12Khz). The shielding is to protect data integrity =
from outside influences like the
    strobe wires... Understanding this should assure you that the =
connector will have little effect. We
    are convinced that the best place to mount the receiver is under the =
pilot side wing about 3 feet
    out from the wing/strake junction. In the belly won't work! The =
cable can be in the chase along
    with the wing lighting and coax wires.

    There are two ways to run the cable - one is to have the connector =
and the other is to bore a hole
    in the wing from the root to the base plate for the receiver =
(sensor, antenna...). To bore the hole is
    not too bad a job, I took a long piece of 1.5" aluminum tubing and =
cut teeth on the end with a saw.
    Then I alternately bent the teeth to the inside and outside about =
1/16" to enlarge the cut kerf in the
    foam. The builder eyeballed my aim with the tube and I started =
twisting the tube. We hit the mark
    dead on and it only took about 15 minutes to do.

    The biggest problem as far as we're concerned is the application of =
the required ground plane.
    It has to be at least 10 square feet! It can be a fine mesh or thin =
metal and it is not necessary that
    the receiver be centered on the gnd plane. One thing that must be =
observed is that the receiver's
    backing plate must be in intimate contact with the gnd plane. The =
ground plane must NOT be in
    between the foam and wing glass - don't even consider it! Laminate =
the plane to the bottom of the
    wing and fine bid over it after it has been securely glued down.

    As with all aircraft (from Velocities to King Air's) you will =
probably see a lot of strikes off the wing tips
    even in clear weather. Not to worry, it ain't judgement day, just =
your strobes faking out the storm scope.
    The best and only way to fix this problem is to - you guessed it - =
shut off the strobes. Goodrich has been
    really good to deal with, their field service guys are most helpful =
and willing to work with us.

    Hope this helps -
    Wayne Lanza
    (Velocity contractor & electrical weenie)
    Composite Design, Inc.

    visit our web site at: http://www.CompositeDesignInc.com
    =
_________________________________________________________________________=
________


    On Monday, June 9, 2003, at 06:33 PM, Paul Calhoun wrote:


      The last issue of Velocity Views had an article from Scot Baker =
about Stormscope antennae installation on the underside of the pilot =
side wing. It was suggested that the antennae cable would have to be cut =
and spliced if one wanted removable wings. Because there is two separate =
layers of shielding in the cable, only a pro can do the job. The factory =
will splice it for $300 if one sends in the cut cable after going to the =
trouble to disconnect it from the control unit. Will a spliced cable =
ever work as well?
      =20
      I wondered if there weren't a better way. Here is another option. =
Simply enlarge the wire channel 31" into the wing from the inboard end =
of the wing so that the cable can be passed in and out of the wing to =
the antennae . After getting a blessing from the factory, I employed the =
following process:
      =20
          1. Open the hole for the antennae into the channel as =
instructed in the Views. (I was relieved that the channel was where it =
was supposed to be 31" from the inboard edge and 4" toward the TE from =
the center spar. To double check this location I noted that the drill =
point was right on a straight line from the entrance of the channel on =
the inboard side to the outlet of the channel at the strobe light on the =
other end.)
          2. Fish out the strobe light, nav and com wires through the =
newly cut hole so they won't be in the way. the later step of trying to =
cut through the foam around the wires doesn't work. Don't ask how I =
know.
          3.Enlarge the inboard fiberglass opening of the channel to =
1.75 "
          4. Sharpen the end of a 1.75 OD X 40" aluminum tube and pass =
it up the foam surrounding the channel. It helped to re-sharpen the tube =
every 10" of foam cutting since the aluminum doesn't hold an edge.
          5. Pass the com/strobe wires back out the channel.
          6. One could leave the tube in place for ease of passage of =
the cable. I am trying it without the tube first.
      =20
      Paul Calhoun
      =20
      Medical Ambassadors International
      Transforming nations through the seamless combination of disease =
prevention, evangelism, and community development.
      =20

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<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Message</TITLE>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The "full length" antenna lead option =
was not=20
discussed for the same reason that "full length" strobe light power =
supply wires=20
are not discussed.&nbsp; Removing the wings with full length wires means =

disconnecting the wires at the cabin side source, in this case the =
remote=20
mounted WX500 receiver/processor, possibly disconnecting the individual =
wires=20
from the wiring plug if the plug can't be pulled through the wing, and =
fishing=20
the wire through the wing - then doing the whole procedure in reverse to =

re-mount the wings.&nbsp; Depending on where things are mounted, and how =
the=20
antenna wires are secured - this can be a royal pain in the arss - hence =
the=20
suggestion for a splice (which is&nbsp;how most builders normally =
address the=20
VOR, and communication antennas, and also the wing tip =
lights).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Best regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Scott B.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dpaul@med-amb.org href=3D"mailto:paul@med-amb.org">Paul =
Calhoun</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dreflector@tvbf.org=20
  href=3D"mailto:reflector@tvbf.org">reflector@tvbf.org</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, June 10, 2003 =
2:10=20
PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: =
REFLECTOR:Stormscope=20
  antennae</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D339110318-10062003><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2>Thanks for the feedback, Wayne. Enlarging the chase is so =
easy - as you=20
  say 15 minutes work - that I can't imagine why anyone would want to go =
to the=20
  time and expense of splicing the cable and why the other option wasn't =
given=20
  in the VV article. I found that sharpening the tube without filing in =
teeth=20
  was sufficient for a smooth cutting operation. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D339110318-10062003><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D339110318-10062003><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2>Paul</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader lang=3Den-us dir=3Dltr =
align=3Dleft><FONT=20
    face=3DTahoma size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
    reflector-admin@tvbf.org [mailto:reflector-admin@tvbf.org] <B>On =
Behalf Of=20
    </B>Wayne Lanza<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, June 09, 2003 5:04 =
PM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
    reflector@tvbf.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: REFLECTOR:Stormscope=20
    antennae<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>Hi Paul,<BR>Regarding the storm scope =
antennas,=20
    I have installed all (7) of the WX500 systems at the factory.<BR>The =

    connector at the wing/strake junction is accomplished with a metal =
connector=20
    (Amp) and is a<BR>bit pricey due to the cost of the connector and =
the labor=20
    involved. In addition to preparing the SS<BR>cable, you will need to =
add a=20
    braided metal shield over the strobe wires in the same =
wing.<BR><BR>After=20
    discussions with BF Goodrich and several installations here are the =
proven=20
    procedures for<BR>the WX500. First of all the thing in the wing is =
NOT an=20
    antenna, it is technically a DVDT probe that<BR>senses energy =
spikes. The=20
    cable is shielded but is not an RF assembly, the wires are for a=20
    simple<BR>data link (about 12Khz). The shielding is to protect data=20
    integrity from outside influences like the<BR>strobe wires... =
Understanding=20
    this should assure you that the connector will have little effect. =
We<BR>are=20
    convinced that the best place to mount the receiver is under the =
pilot side=20
    wing about 3 feet<BR>out from the wing/strake junction. In the belly =
won't=20
    work! The cable can be in the chase along<BR>with the wing lighting =
and coax=20
    wires.<BR><BR>There are two ways to run the cable - one is to have =
the=20
    connector and the other is to bore a hole<BR>in the wing from the =
root to=20
    the base plate for the receiver (sensor, antenna...). To bore the =
hole=20
    is<BR>not too bad a job, I took a long piece of 1.5" aluminum tubing =
and cut=20
    teeth on the end with a saw.<BR>Then I alternately bent the teeth to =
the=20
    inside and outside about 1/16" to enlarge the cut kerf in =
the<BR>foam. The=20
    builder eyeballed my aim with the tube and I started twisting the =
tube. We=20
    hit the mark<BR>dead on and it only took about 15 minutes to =
do.<BR><BR>The=20
    biggest problem as far as we're concerned is the application of the =
required=20
    ground plane.<BR>It has to be at least 10 square feet! It can be a =
fine mesh=20
    or thin metal and it is not necessary that<BR>the receiver be =
centered on=20
    the gnd plane. One thing that must be observed is that the=20
    receiver's<BR>backing plate must be in intimate contact with the gnd =
plane.=20
    The ground plane must NOT be in<BR>between the foam and wing glass - =
don't=20
    even consider it! Laminate the plane to the bottom of the<BR>wing =
and fine=20
    bid over it after it has been securely glued down.<BR><BR>As with =
all=20
    aircraft (from Velocities to King Air's) you will probably see a lot =
of=20
    strikes off the wing tips<BR>even in clear weather. Not to worry, it =
ain't=20
    judgement day, just your strobes faking out the storm scope.<BR>The =
best and=20
    only way to fix this problem is to - you guessed it - shut off the =
strobes.=20
    Goodrich has been<BR>really good to deal with, their field service =
guys are=20
    most helpful and willing to work with us.<BR><BR>Hope this helps =
-<BR>Wayne=20
    Lanza<BR>(Velocity contractor &amp; electrical weenie)<BR>Composite =
Design,=20
    Inc.<BR><BR>visit our web site at:=20
    =
http://www.CompositeDesignInc.com<BR>____________________________________=
_____________________________________________<BR><BR><BR>On=20
    Monday, June 9, 2003, at 06:33 PM, Paul Calhoun wrote:<BR><BR>
    <BLOCKQUOTE><?fontfamily><?param Arial><?smaller>The last issue of=20
      Velocity Views had an article from Scot Baker about Stormscope =
antennae=20
      installation on the underside of the pilot side wing. It was =
suggested=20
      that the antennae cable would have to be cut and spliced if one =
wanted=20
      removable wings. Because there is two separate layers of shielding =
in the=20
      cable, only a pro can do the job. The factory will&nbsp;splice it =
for $300=20
      if one sends in the cut cable after going to the trouble to =
disconnect it=20
      from the control unit. Will a spliced cable ever work as =
well?<?/smaller><?/fontfamily><BR>&nbsp;<BR><?fontfamily><?param =
Arial><?smaller>I=20
      wondered if there weren't a better way. Here is another option. =
Simply=20
      enlarge the wire channel 31" into the wing from the inboard end of =
the=20
      wing so that the cable can be passed in and out of the wing to the =

      antennae . After getting a blessing from the factory, I employed =
the=20
      following =
process:<?/smaller><?/fontfamily><BR>&nbsp;<BR><?fontfamily><?param =
Arial><?smaller>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
      1. Open&nbsp;the&nbsp;hole for the antennae&nbsp;into the channel =
as=20
      instructed in the Views. (I was relieved that the channel was =
where it was=20
      supposed to be 31" from the inboard edge and 4" toward the TE from =
the=20
      center spar. To double check this location I noted that the drill =
point=20
      was right on a straight&nbsp;line from the entrance of the channel =
on the=20
      inboard side to the outlet of the channel at the strobe light on =
the other=20
      end.)<?/smaller><?/fontfamily><BR><?fontfamily><?param =
Arial><?smaller>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
      2. Fish out the strobe light, nav and com wires through the newly =
cut hole=20
      so they won't be in the way. the later step of trying to cut =
through the=20
      foam around the wires doesn't work. Don't ask how I =
know.<?/smaller><?/fontfamily><BR><?fontfamily><?param =
Arial><?smaller>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
      3.Enlarge the inboard fiberglass opening of the channel to 1.75 =
"<?/smaller><?/fontfamily><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<?fontfamily><?para=
m Arial><?smaller>4.=20
      Sharpen the end of a 1.75 OD X 40" aluminum tube and pass it up =
the foam=20
      surrounding the channel. It helped to re-sharpen the tube every=20
      10"&nbsp;of foam cutting&nbsp;since the aluminum doesn't hold an =
edge.<?/smaller><?/fontfamily><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
<?fontfamily><?param Arial><?smaller>5. Pass the com/strobe wires back =
out=20
      the channel.<?/smaller><?/fontfamily><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
<?fontfamily><?param Arial><?smaller>6. One could leave the tube in =
place=20
      for ease of passage of the cable. I am trying it without the tube =
first.<?/smaller><?/fontfamily><BR>&nbsp;<BR><?fontfamily><?param =
Arial><?smaller>Paul=20
      Calhoun<?/smaller><?/fontfamily><BR>&nbsp;<BR><?fontfamily><?param =
Arial><?smaller>Medical=20
      Ambassadors =
International<?/smaller><?/fontfamily><BR><I><?fontfamily><?param =
Arial><?smaller>Transforming=20
      nations through the seamless combination of disease prevention,=20
      evangelism, and community=20
      =
development.<?/smaller><?/fontfamily></I><BR>&nbsp;<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BLO=
CKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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