REFLECTOR:RE: main wheel/brake shutter

[Chris Martin]

Tom,

This is a periodic adjustment that should be made due to creep and use of
the retract gear. A castle nut would not give you the fine tune adjustment
required. I prefer to use a jamb nut on top of the main nut of the two main
gear bolt. For the nose gear bolt I use a plastic insert type of lock nut.

Chris Martin


> [Original Message]
> From: Tom Martino <tmartino@troubleshooter.com>
> To: <reflector@tvbf.org>
> Date: 4/19/2003 10:46:10 AM
> Subject: RE: REFLECTOR:RE: main wheel/brake shutter
>
> Why don't they use castle type nuts on the main gear pivots (with cotter
> pins)?  Wouldn't this be a better arrangement for holding the right
> amount of torque and taking away the worry of them coming loose?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott Derrick [mailto:scott@tnstaafl.net] 
> Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 12:29 PM
> To: reflector@tvbf.org
> Subject: Re: REFLECTOR:RE: main wheel/brake shutter
>
> I put large washers in between the bulkheads and the leg bushing to 
> eliminate any sliding movement on the pivot bolts.  This was recommended
>
> by the factory A&P.
>
> This also allows you to keep the two legs in alignment so there is no 
> binding in the gear mechanism as the legs retract.
>
> My through bolts are just tight enough so their is no play in the bolt, 
> but there is very little squeezing pressure being applied to the forward
>
>   and rear bulkheads.
>
> Scott
>
> Chris Martin wrote:
> > Pat,
> > 
> > Try tightening the through bolts at the main pivot points for the nose
> gear
> > and the mains. This was my biggest problem and solved almost all of my
> > shimmy. Put the plane up on jacks and cycle the gear up. Place a box
> or
> > some sort of 6 inch high block on the ground where the wheels come
> down.
> > Then dump the emergency hydraulic release and let the gear down. The
> gear
> > will stop on the blocks allowing you to lift them and feel the side to
> side
> > play. I think you will find that use has loosened it up considerably.
> > Lubricate the pivot points and tighten them up as much as you can
> without
> > binding the gear. That should fix most of the shimmy.
> > 
> > Let me know if it helps.
> > 
> > Chris
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >>[Original Message]
> >>From: Pat Shea <xl340hp@yahoo.com>
> >>To: Chris Martin <christophercmartin@earthlink.net>
> >>Date: 4/17/2003 11:32:51 AM
> >>Subject: main wheel/brake shutter
> >>
> >>Hi Chris,
> >>
> >> Just thought I'd drop you a note to let you know
> >>you're not the only one having brake shutter problems.
> >>Although I had taxied my plane in the past up to about
> >>40mph w/ no problems, now if I hit the brakes around
> >>40mph I get a pretty bad main wheel/gear shutter until
> >>the speed drops below 20mph. There is no problem until
> >>I touch the brakes or after I release them. It
> >>definitely won't pass the 'friends and family' test.
> >>Of course, I've made a few changes since those initial
> >>successful taxi tests: upgraded to the 600XT's
> >>calipers, upgraded to the steel discs, upgraded to the
> >>bi-metal pads, replaced my tires/tubes, changed the
> >>brake lines, adjusted the toe-in, replaced my nose
> >>wheel, painted the plane... How's that for a few
> >>variables?? 
> >> Anyway, Scott Swing thinks the problem may be a
> >>variation in the disc thickness - George at Matco
> >>doesn't... I need to measure it. I still have my old
> >>disc which I plan on re-installing to see if that
> >>makes any difference. I did have a some pretty good
> >>disc run-out (more than 1/16") which I shimmed away -
> >>that fix had zero affect on the shutter. George has
> >>offered to check my brake/disc/wheel setup. My wife is
> >>due to deliver #2 in 2 weeks so I probably won't miss
> >>those parts too much for a while...
> >>
> >>Best of luck, Pat 
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>__________________________________________________
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> >>http://search.yahoo.com
> > 
> > 
> > 
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