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Re: REFLECTOR: Oil temperature



This rang a bell- I looked in the Sky Ranch Engineering Manual, pp. 205-6.
Speaking about cylinders Schwaner recommends an alodined surface for optimal
heat transfer. He states that any paint will insulate the surface and reduce
heat transfer by making it smoother, reducing surface area. He also says
that black paint will maximize the emission or absorption of radiant energy
but that transfer by convection is a more effective method of cooling. I'd
imagine the same principles would apply to the pan.
  Also, wouldn't radiant heat inside the cowling would either get reflected
back or absorbed by another part of the engine or airframe and re- emitted?
  If you decide to alodine, I like the Poly-Fiber Aluma-Dyne cleaner E-2311
followed by Alodine 1201. The E-2311 is a cream that stays in place without
rewetting until you rinse it off. The 1201 is strong enough that it can be
painted on and quickly rinsed, again without rewetting. You could probably
strip the finish and then treat the pan in place. I don't know what this
stuff might do to any gaskets or seals though.  -Bill

prototype 'Super' Chipmunk N18EF
Velocity Classic RG N6098S in the works
>
>I went to a cooling seminar at Oshkosh ... oops, Airventure.
>
>The guy went on talking about heat rejection.  I started thinking about
>our nifty little oil pan.  Here's a tip that I would like someone
>to try:
>
>1) remove your oil pan, and have it sand blasted to remove all of the
>paint and to lightly texture the surface.  Have you seen Lycomings
>cylinders?  All of their fins are rough and unpainted so that they
>can more easily reject heat.
>
>2) Go get some barbeque grill flat black paint if you can find
>some that is compatible with aluminum and paint your pan.  This
>will be "almost as good" as any commercial heat rejection
>paint that you could buy.  The trick is that your primer
>is important too.  If you can't find a paint that will work
>without a primer, just leave it bare and see if your oil temperatures
>come down.
>