Re: REFLECTOR: Reflector:SVX & IVO Prop update

[DAlexan424@aol.com]

In a message dated 6/5/99 9:33:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sonrisa@twrol.com 
writes:

> We had a minor cooling problem because of air being trapped in the system 
> right at the water pump. Taking one of the small water lines loose near the 
> top of the system seemed to work well to vent most of the air out along 
with 
> coolant being sucked back into the system from the overflow as the engine 
> cooled. With that resolved we were able to run the engine at various RPMs 
> from idle to full throttle for about 20 min. before getting high coolant 
> temps.(225*).We're running a Griffen all aluminum racing radiator 15"x 19"x 
2.
> 5" and an aluminum heater core 7"x 7"x 1" with a couple of bilge fans 
plumbed 
> to it to give cabin heat as necessary and additional cooling, especially 
> during taxi.

Hi all,

Some observations from the world of auto repair. Most thermostats have a 
little doo-hickey called a jiggle pin mounted in them. When looking at the 
thermo, it is the only loose piece that "jiggles" when the thermo is shaken. 
The purpose as I have been told is to break up the larger air bubbles that 
form behind the thermo before it opens allowing the trapped air to pass by 
the closed thermo and prevent an air pocket. NOT! 

I have ALWAYS found that the cooling system fills better without the jiggle 
pin installed by allowing coolant to pass by the thermo and fully fill the 
system. The worst case I can think of is the 5SFE 4 cylinder Camry motor. If 
the jiggle pin is left in, you will never get all the air out of the system 
on the first attempt. The resulting volcano caused by the trapped air pocket 
is quite entertaining. Cut the jiggle pin out with a pair of side cutters the 
next time in.

Make sure that the surge tank/pressure cap/filler is the highest part of the 
cooling system. Air rises and must collect in an area higher than and away 
from the engine with a quantity of coolant to replenish that amount lost to 
filling. Drill and tap the manifolds/junctions/pipes for bleeders at the 
highest points in the cooling system if necessary. 

Lastly, look into reverse cooling ala Smokey Yunicks method. I have info on 
this from old Circle Track mags and Moroso sells the kits for small block 
Chevys which means it should fit just about any V6-8 cylinder GM stuff. The 
reverse cooling re-routes the cooling water to the heads first where it is 
needed to prevent detonation rather than the block (where it is pre-heated 
before it gets to the heads). This alone is worth a notch or two in 
compression and that will give better power and fuel curves.

Hope this helps...

Dale Alexander
173 Rg Gull-Wing