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Re: REFLECTOR: Leveling: Center Line



David:

Dave Black has answered most of your questions.  One caution since you
have already cut the nose gear cutout.  You must now make sure the
centerline you choose, which will index your keel with the nose gear
mechanism in it, lines up with the nose gear hole.  Obviously, the
gear may not go thru the hole if you don't!!.  I went round and round
w/ my centerline and will be glad to discuss it over the phone if you
like.  Too involved to write it all!!  My # is 512-832-6767 if you
want to discuss.

Mike




---Dave Black <asterisk@erols.com> wrote:
>
> David,
> 
> 
> >     Well, it is now clear that my bottom fuselage is somewhat
> > twisted.. in order to get bulkhead locations level side to side.. I
> > end up with a cowl that is 3/4 inch high on one side...  Any
> > suggestions? 
> 
> Get the bulkheads right. Don't worry about the cowl. Really! 
> You'll get plenty of time to do whatever you want with the cowl
later. 
> 
> > Is this a freak occurance? 
> 
> It's not common. It's probably due to your kit being stored in some
odd
> position for all these years. Fiberglass can flex.
> 
> > Also, I went ahead while I
> > had the thing loose again and turned it over and cut out the nose
> > gear door hole according to the factory markings... Cut it perfectly
> > straight... And at a glance it doesn't look like its perfectly
> > centered to the centerline.. Perhaps not crucial.. 
> 
> Slow down! 
> 
> In my humble opinion, this is WAY TOO SOON for you to be cutting
holes in your
> fuselage. You should have it leveled and stabilized so you know for
sure which
> way is up before you start making cuts. To me, that means canard
bulkhead,
> firewall, gear bulkhead, keel, and side conduits installed before
cutting the
> fuselage. 
> 
> > Do the factory markings tend to be off? 
> 
> No. They are ALWAYS off! 
> Use them only for a reference. Measure for yourself before cutting
anything. 
> All the more important with your twisted fuselage. 
> 
> > Conclusion,,, fuselage is Asemetrical..
>  
> Everyone's fuselage is asymmetrical. Yours is just more so than most. 
> 
> > It's not going to untwist in the air is it?? 
> 
> No.
> 
> > I assume I'm going to have to just level the bulkheads and worry
about
> > the back later... right?
> 
> Absolutely.
> 
> > What should I do?? 
> 
> Start by leveling your fuselage the best you can at the bulkheads
and doors.
> Put whatever weight you need on it to hold it in that position.
Given enough
> time and/or enough HEAT, the twist will relax. Yes, fiberglass can
"melt"
> somewhat like a candle does, although to a much lesser degree. For
more
> information on fiberglass, there is no better person to ask than
Alan Shaw,
> and he's always willing to help.
> 
> But even without relaxing the fuselage first, you can begin
installing those
> bulkheads, keel, and ducts. An amazing thing about the Velocity kit
-- the
> more you put together, the STRONGER it becomes. Consider Simon's
recent
> postings on the strength of the fuselage. That's hard to believe
when you're
> handling what seem like relatively flimsy kit pieces, but absolutely
true. I'd
> suspect that simply installing those parts will reduce your fuselage's
> tendency to twist. And I can assure you that when you eventually put
the top
> on, its twisting days are finished!
> 
> Everyone's centerline is curved, but it does not matter. Your
centerline is
> whatever YOU decide it is. After your fuselage is straightened and
stabilized
> to your satisfaction, draw a new centerline and use that for your
> measurements. Just make certain it's midway between the sides. You
certainly
> do not want the innards of your plane reflecting whatever residual
twist
> remains in the original fuselage. 
> 
> The twist in your aging kit may add a few complications early in
your building
> experience, but should make no difference whatever in the finished
airplane. 
> 
> Enjoy,
> Dave Black
> SW RG TopDoor
> 

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