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Re: Marhyde Ultimate Filler/Primer
At 08:47 AM 6/19/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Tell me more about rolling on paint. I was planning on using the
>PolyFiber system for everything. Is that rollable?
>What are the advantages? I think efficiency is a big one. No
>overspray wasted to the gods. Do you roll on all of the base coats
>and then spray a final overcoat?
>How is it done? Is it cheaper? What are the results?
I'm not a paint expert. Not even a novice yet really. I just remember hearing
of some people who have rolled on their paints.
I seem to remember someone mentioning it on the reflector a while back.
I was told of some Lancair (I think) guys who did theirs, at least
initially, that way.
When I found our local paint booth full I asked the paint folks about
rolling and they said "no prob". They were the ones who told me to get that
3/16" mohair roller with the phenolic core. (Cardboard comes apart in our
I plan to spray the final US Paints 545 Primer, and finish coats however.
I am pleased with the results of rolling the Marhyde. The only problems has
been a large case of "deja vu" as I run that long sanding beam along the
wings. As I said in my earlier post, I would have done this a long time ago
had I known how effective it is. Yes pretty efficient use. No loss. Keeps
all your neighbor's planes clean too!
I'm thinkin of rolling a coating along the fuselage joint lines just to
double check my fairing there too.
Please see the post below from// Alan Shaw //about filling with Mar-hyde.
"Once your contour is close with the glass bubbles and 40 grit skim the
surface with West Systems 410 micro lite to fill big scratches and pin
holes. Then sand with 80 to 100 grit. Now paint with a Urethane high build
like Mar-hyde's "Ultimate" that fills with out soaking in and sands like
butter. The primer will show low spots that can be filled with the 410
right on top of the primer and fair in nicely with the primer. One
additional note: never use epolite resin for fill and sand because of
variable density problems from multiple fills and it's too hard to sand
flat. You should be able to sand the second Urethane primer out with 120 to
180 and the prime with the white U. S. Paints 545 for final. If you use the
545 earlyer in the game it is a waste. It soaks into the micro ballon, adds
weight and doesn't fill unless you put layer on top of layer ontop of layer
$$$...### However 545 should be used as your final primer because it has a
better UV barrier. It is also an excellent anti-corossive for all the steel
parts that come with your kit."